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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
I just installed the long bushing switchcraft jack on my Combustion. First, in terms of build and connectivity, what a difference. The stock one uses noticeably thinner materials (both conductors and insulators) and it's been scratchy and loose since I bought it new. Honestly the jack design and part choices are the biggest frustrations I have with the bass. I hope for better in a $2K+ instrument.
In addition to the wildly improved secure connection, there's now more clearance for right angle connectors but it's still not perfect. Longer shaft products like Planet Waves can now spin most of the way around and hang down freely, where before it would hit the bottom 'peninsula'. Short shaft plugs can now fit, but only in the 'bay' part of the design where before they wouldn't even do that.
Unfortunately, the long shaft intersects with the mounting screw angle of the electrosocket. Forcing the screws (a) is possible, (b) creates a trench in the socket threads, and (c) the destroyed threads don't interfere with putting a nut on, but the nut hits the screw heads. All in all an inelegant solution. I'm deliberating the merits of installing a Neutrik jack though I don't like the locking feature.
In addition to the wildly improved secure connection, there's now more clearance for right angle connectors but it's still not perfect. Longer shaft products like Planet Waves can now spin most of the way around and hang down freely, where before it would hit the bottom 'peninsula'. Short shaft plugs can now fit, but only in the 'bay' part of the design where before they wouldn't even do that.
Unfortunately, the long shaft intersects with the mounting screw angle of the electrosocket. Forcing the screws (a) is possible, (b) creates a trench in the socket threads, and (c) the destroyed threads don't interfere with putting a nut on, but the nut hits the screw heads. All in all an inelegant solution. I'm deliberating the merits of installing a Neutrik jack though I don't like the locking feature.
I’ve watched it many times as I summon the courage to drill into an MTD
IvanBassist
Commercial User
- Jun 8, 2008
- 3,744
- 11,128
- Disclosures
- Content Manager at Darkglass Electronics, Dingwall Guitars Artist
Very helpful indeed.
I watched that video several times before installing the Reach Reducer Straplock on my ABZ5.
I does make a difference for reaching the low end.
However, conversely, I found it was not as fun reaching for stuff on the high end.
I don't play a ton up-top, but when I do, I'd like to be able to hit the right notes!
So, for now I don't use the RR system.
However, as I get older, I have a sneaking suspension that I will start using it all the time.
Very helpful indeed.
I watched that video several times before installing the Reach Reducer Straplock on my ABZ5.
I does make a difference for reaching the low end.
However, conversely, I found it was not as fun reaching for stuff on the high end.
I don't play a ton up-top, but when I do, I'd like to be able to hit the right notes!
So, for now I don't use the RR system.
However, as I get older, I have a sneaking suspension that I will start using it all the time.
I don't use the RR system on my ABI-4. I'm comfortable with the usual strap lock positions. I also never venture above the twelfth fret...
Thanks for sharing about the drawbacks of the RRS. I play higher up semi frequently so I’m curious to see how installing a rear strap option affects thingsVery helpful indeed.
I watched that video several times before installing the Reach Reducer Straplock on my ABZ5.
I does make a difference for reaching the low end.
However, conversely, I found it was not as fun reaching for stuff on the high end.
I don't play a ton up-top, but when I do, I'd like to be able to hit the right notes!
So, for now I don't use the RR system.
However, as I get older, I have a sneaking suspension that I will start using it all the time.
Where's your sense of adventure bro!
I was adventurous enough to try it one time anyway...
For anyone curious about adding a Dingwall style reach reducing strap button to their bass, I just did it on my MTD and have some thoughts. The John Fox video linked above is a nice reference. I used brand new bits so that they’d cut cleanly. For the 3/8” but I went with a forstner and it worked extremely well. I also used a bit block as a guide to get the screw hole drilled perpendicular to the body. I was also liberal in my application of painters tape and I redid it in between 7/64” and 3/8” holes to avoid dinging the finish. I also clearly marked each bit for depth with tape to not over or undershoot the depth specified by Dunlop. I lubricated the screw threads with soap before installing it. With a bit of care the drilling and installation was quite easy.
What took more time was finding the right screw position. I used a suction cup to mock up multiple options, but even with that I was never confident and had to take a leap of faith in the end. I experimented with placements quite a bit. The assumed ideal placement was in danger of running into one of the bridge screws so I had to adjust it slightly closer to the neck. Additionally, it’s 1/2” towards the B and E side of the neck as opposed to being right on the centerline of the neck like the existing rear strap button. In my testing this kept the neck in more of a 45-degree position, and helped to keep the bass from tilting out away from my body like my old FenderBird with the strap button on the neck plate where the upper bout was further from my chest than the lower bout was from my stomach. This resulted in a weird gap at the upper bout and an awkward right hand and wrist position. I’m pleased to say that on my MTD seen here the bass does not have that issue with the reach reducing strap button.
As for the results: With the traditional rear button the fret that aligns with the centerline of my torso is roughly 24. It’s right at the end of the board. I have a rock climbing injury that causes me some shoulder pain when playing long passages focused down around the first fret. With the reach reduction it’s the 17th fret that aligns with the center of my torso. Quite a difference. There’s a slight sacrifice to upper fret access but overall it’s a success for my typical playing, and a noticeable reduction in fretting hand shoulder strain.
The overall verdict is that if you’re competent with tools, take your time, and proceed with caution; This is a very achievable project with results that are as-promised by the concept. By far the hardest part is determining the location of your screw hole.
What took more time was finding the right screw position. I used a suction cup to mock up multiple options, but even with that I was never confident and had to take a leap of faith in the end. I experimented with placements quite a bit. The assumed ideal placement was in danger of running into one of the bridge screws so I had to adjust it slightly closer to the neck. Additionally, it’s 1/2” towards the B and E side of the neck as opposed to being right on the centerline of the neck like the existing rear strap button. In my testing this kept the neck in more of a 45-degree position, and helped to keep the bass from tilting out away from my body like my old FenderBird with the strap button on the neck plate where the upper bout was further from my chest than the lower bout was from my stomach. This resulted in a weird gap at the upper bout and an awkward right hand and wrist position. I’m pleased to say that on my MTD seen here the bass does not have that issue with the reach reducing strap button.
As for the results: With the traditional rear button the fret that aligns with the centerline of my torso is roughly 24. It’s right at the end of the board. I have a rock climbing injury that causes me some shoulder pain when playing long passages focused down around the first fret. With the reach reduction it’s the 17th fret that aligns with the center of my torso. Quite a difference. There’s a slight sacrifice to upper fret access but overall it’s a success for my typical playing, and a noticeable reduction in fretting hand shoulder strain.
The overall verdict is that if you’re competent with tools, take your time, and proceed with caution; This is a very achievable project with results that are as-promised by the concept. By far the hardest part is determining the location of your screw hole.
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Hi All,
I have a Dingwall NG3 on the way (before end of year…) ... will share a picture to officialy join the club ;-)
What kind of strap do you use ?
I was looking for a Dingwall one but but I have trouble finding a strap to be delivered in France
Do you have any suggestion ?
thanks !
I have a Dingwall NG3 on the way (before end of year…) ... will share a picture to officialy join the club ;-)
What kind of strap do you use ?
I was looking for a Dingwall one but but I have trouble finding a strap to be delivered in France
Do you have any suggestion ?
thanks !
Minotaur 4" Bass Wide Padded Strap BK
Strap for Electric Bass High quality, Reinforced strap holes, Extra-soft memory foam, 7.6 mm (0,30") thick shoulder pad, Strap material: Italian leather, End piece material: Leather, Width: 101 mm (4"), Length adjustable from 104 cm (41") to 152 cm...
www.thomann.de
Neotech Mega Strap Regular
Strap for electric guitar or electric bass Patented internal Control-Stretch system for maximum comfort without shoulder fatigue, Instruments feel 50% lighter to the touch, Made of soft, durable elastic neoprene with two layers of memory foam for...
www.thomann.de
These two, both feel great. They are wide so the weight is distributed. I do like the Neotech one more since it's padded but they both feel very comfortable.
Nice job on the reach reducer.
You are now qualified to install Luminlay dots! Even easier and huge bang for the buck.
Do you have the part number for the strap lock? I’m thinking about adding one to my AB-1.
Thanks!
You are now qualified to install Luminlay dots! Even easier and huge bang for the buck.
Do you have the part number for the strap lock? I’m thinking about adding one to my AB-1.
Thanks!
I tried the Neo Strap and returned it. The stretchy thing didn’t work for me. And it smells like a wetsuit.
All that and it was quick to make a sweat spot.
All that and it was quick to make a sweat spot.
It took some looking to find just the "hole", but I was able to get these here: Amazon.com
And although I was waaaay less careful than @silky smoove , and just kinda eyeballed the best placement instead of properly getting a suction cup, I too had complete success putting a new hole in the back of my NG3. I say do it!
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