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Dingwall Owners Club

Next dumb question about the 3X setup:

Has anyone or is it even possible to wire your neck/bridge in series rather than middle/bridge?
You could do that, but that way you'd never use the middle pickup at all! Might as well use a normal 2 pickup selector and remove the middle pickup altogether. Or leave an empty shell for looks and a thumb rest.
 
Hmmm I was thinking that the middle and bridge could be in parallel in that scenario.

I have my AB1 and love the p tone neck and bridge in series. I mistakenly thought that with the 3X I'd still be able to have that scenario with the toggles. No biggie, the bass sounds phenomenal....I'm just trying to quickly get up to speed on these basses.
 
Question for 3X with series/parallel toggle owners....Are you finding position 2 (bridge and middle in series) to be a good amount louder than position 3 (neck and bridge series)?

I also find position 4 to be pretty hot at times. I've been having a great time playing with the different combinations. These things have a lot of refined teeth in them. They are gritty and punchy but you still get brilliant highs. Definitely one of the best electronics setups I've ever seen on a bass.
 
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I've spent some more time with the ABI (originally Singlemalts), and am really digging this bass. I played it at practice last week and it really helped my back because of the light weight and balance. I set it for "P" (#2 setting from counter-clockwise) which emphasizes the P-tone PUP, and had the volume at what I thought was about right. For only the second time in 2 years, the lead singer/rhythm player asked me to turn up. This tells me that even with a P tone, this bass really cuts through so much I had the volume too low?

I'm confused about one thing, I know the top is flame maple, but the flaming extends to the side, and it is also apparent on the back. So what kind of wood is the body? I've never heard of flamed alder or ash, and it's too light for maple. And what are the 2 settings I like (#2 (P tone) and #3 (very convincing J tone))?

I still occasionally miss frets on the G string, but am going to enjoy mastering it. The rest is a breeze to play.
 
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[Qbelieve mine is alsoE="groovaholic, post: 17437114, member: 47115"]Depends how old it is; IIRC the first couple years of Afterburners had maple bodies.[/QUOTE]
I believe mine is also a 2004, I suspected it was maple, maybe with tone chambers? It's very light for maple.
 
AB1's have been made of different things over the years. Originally they were maple bodied, that later changed to alder. The AB that Julian posted was purchased in spring of 2005, and IIRC I had to wait for it to make it from Sheldon to Bass Central, so most likely built early 2005. I don't remember when Sheldon changed over to alder but it was maybe 2003?

I don't believe that any AB1's of that era came with chambered bodies. The first of those came with the second revision of the AB2.
 
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image.jpg

Here's a picture of the back.
image.jpg
 
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Here's the bit from the original website about the original AB bodies:

BODY – DUAL DENSITY CORE, EXOTIC TOP AND BACK
Body Woods
Core wood – Soft Maple

We chose soft maple due to its availability, low cost and great tone. The acoustic qualities of soft maple are similar to alder but with more sustain and a better B-string response
 
Here's the bit from the original website about the original AB bodies:

BODY – DUAL DENSITY CORE, EXOTIC TOP AND BACK
Body Woods
Core wood – Soft Maple

We chose soft maple due to its availability, low cost and great tone. The acoustic qualities of soft maple are similar to alder but with more sustain and a better B-string response
It sucks that I often forget my own phone number, co-workers' first names, appointments...but I remembered what wood was used for this specific model of Dingwall basses from over 10 years ago...
 
It sucks that I often forget my own phone number, co-workers' first names, appointments...but I remembered what wood was used for this specific model of Dingwall basses from over 10 years ago...

Luckily, the internut never forgets. :) Although I'm sure that some of the superlatives might be frowned upon given some of the changes since. But that's hindsight.
 
With my combustion, I declined the standard three pick up switch. For me, soloed bridge, and parallel bridge/neck options are not selling points. I will probably end up with the bridge and middle pick ups hardwired in series together.
I'm not a fan of solo'd pickups on 2 pickup bass guitars. My Combustion is no exception, although the neck pickup is growing on me. I find no use for the bridge solo.
I'm giving serious thought to replacing the rotary switch with a blend control and adding a series/parallel toggle.
 
Next dumb question about the 3X setup:

Has anyone or is it even possible to wire your neck/bridge in series rather than middle/bridge?

The inputs on the rotary switch are screw terminal style. You could switch the neck and middle inputs and have the following:
1. bridge soloed
2. bridge+neck series
3. bridge+middle parallel
4. middle soloed

It would be a little counter intuitive to operate at first but you'd get the neck+bridge series tone you like and you'd get the middle pickup soloed which is closer to a true P position.
 
The inputs on the rotary switch are screw terminal style. You could switch the neck and middle inputs and have the following:
1. bridge soloed
2. bridge+neck series
3. bridge+middle parallel
4. middle soloed

It would be a little counter intuitive to operate at first but you'd get the neck+bridge series tone you like and you'd get the middle pickup soloed which is closer to a true P position.

Thanks again Sheldon. I must say after posting that I've had more time with the bass in the band setting. I'm growing fond of the middle/bridge in series. That, and once I gained matched the neck (P tone) and bridge in parallel, am liking that a ton more. The way I look at it now, I have my AB1 for bridge/neck in series.
 
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I just wanted to comment on how cool it is that the Dingwall crew is open and helpful when it comes to making changes based on personal taste. So many shops have a closed minded attitude toward certain modifications. I'm sure it's easier follow a, "Take it or leave It" or "You're on your own if you want to void your warranty" type of path. I'm sure this open door policy of user experience and feedback has lead to some of the evolution and constant rolling improvements of Dingwall products over the years.

Very cool!