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I'm glad you're enjoying that one! It was short-lived here in my home, but only because I "need" to have Canadian ones. I don't even know why that isWell, I took some time this weekend to give my most recent Combustion a little love.
It's now a bass I think I can be happy with as my #1 for a long time!
Gasp! No P-tone on 6 strings? That is a bit of a set back, but not a deal breaker. I love the P-tone in my blue AB-1, so I was hoping to have a similar setup in this one. Oh well, if it doesn't exist, straight up 3x will be funThat should do it!
My AB-1 6 string was just over 9 lbs, which is so nice for a six string. I've hefted six strings that were 12-14lbs which is silly heavy. Lighter than my Super J. Ask about a light alder body.
A P tone for the sixer, is I believe, a mythical beast, but a guy can dream. The neck pickup in series is getting towards P tone.
The Luminays are way too much fun.
Nobody does flamed top greens and blues like Dingwall!
Sounds like a dream bass for sure.
If you ask for the neck pickup wired in series, that'll put you pretty close to the P-tone sound.Gasp! No P-tone on 6 strings? That is a bit of a set back, but not a deal breaker. I love the P-tone in my blue AB-1, so I was hoping to have a similar setup in this one. Oh well, if it doesn't exist, straight up 3x will be fun
I was hoping to keep it 9lbs or less. I had a Bongo 6 HS that tipped the scale at just under 11, and I just never played it because that was way too much. Both of my ABs are under 9 by a fair margin, so I'm hoping this can be similar. Anything under 9.5 is reasonable... if they can get close to 9.0, I'd be blown away. I almost went AB-2 for the chambered body, thinking that'd help... but spending that much more money just for a little weight savings doesn't seem prudent. I'd rather drop a preamp in (and yeah, add weight haha)
I'm going back and forth on the luminays - they seem cool and I play some serious dark stages (theatre - pitch black, can't see your hand when it is touching your nose kind of deal), so having those for some starting notes would be nice.
That flamed green one I linked to was kind of inspiration for this. I normally don't go for greens, and was looking to get blackburst at first. But, saw that color on the website and said "Hey, that's sweet".
I just need to find someone to make me some inlay stickers for these. Pi for the blue one, Phi for the red one, Sigma for this green one.
I have S/P toggles on my AB1 (2 pickups) and they really do offer a lot more variety in tone, especially if you're getting the bass passive. However for now I'm really just running both pickups in series; I haven't touched the neck toggle in over a month because I like the way it sounds so much.I'm kind of debating getting the 3x Series/Parallel toggels added as well. Not sure I want that much "stuff" on the face, though.
Yeah. I'm fairly handy with a soldering iron as well, so changing it myself isn't too big of a deal. Thanks for the tip though, I didn't know I could ask for that on the build sheet. I'll do that just so I can get as close to that P-tone as possible.I have S/P toggles on my AB1 (2 pickups) and they really do offer a lot more variety in tone, especially if you're getting the bass passive. However for now I'm really just running both pickups in series; I haven't touched the neck toggle in over a month because I like the way it sounds so much.
I'd be calling Dingwall to see if they sell touch up paint..or at the least, get a pantone number for the colour and you can get a paint/auto shop to colour match it from the Pantone #. Do a touch up that way...touching the wood with a marker or anything like that, now suddenly changes the "base colour" and you'll not get a perfect match. (all from experience - of course)Leaned over and caught the ragged edge of an amp while fooling with the back of it![]()
Better still.I'd be calling Dingwall to see if they sell touch up paint..or at the least, get a pantone number for the colour and you can get a paint/auto shop to colour match it from the Pantone #. Do a touch up that way...touching the wood with a marker or anything like that, now suddenly changes the "base colour" and you'll not get a perfect match. (all from experience - of course)![]()
A timely bit of advice as it's something I had considered doing the last couple weeks because I have a similar situation on a Chrome Blue bass. I was curious if they sold touch up paint or could offer direction on a brand of hobby paint or nail polish that would be close. Mine is also not in a visible area and a simple drop fill would most likely stop any potential spreading. Around control holes, modified peg holes or newly routed pickup or battery box openings I always lay in an application of thin 'super glue' to avoid future chipping potential.I'd be calling Dingwall to see if they sell touch up paint..or at the least, get a pantone number for the colour and you can get a paint/auto shop to colour match it from the Pantone #. Do a touch up that way...touching the wood with a marker or anything like that, now suddenly changes the "base colour" and you'll not get a perfect match. (all from experience - of course)![]()
This is what I would do cause I know if I messed with paint of any kind it would come out worse.Thinking I just might leave it. A quick search revealed this sage internet wisdom: "honest wear is better than an amateur repair"
Thank you!Sure. The Darkglass in NG2 was strong, and had an easy 'edge' if that makes sense. I found it was easier to drive into aome level of distortion or overdrive. It does clean well but if I played at all aggressively teh clean went away. I like clean. The stock EMG is 'nice' . Great tone, very clean and rather white-breadish, but not in a bad way. Just plain. And, I could probably be very happy with it. For many years the EMG two band was my favorite and go-to pre amp, in Jazz basses to Spectors. In fact I had planned on adding the 4 position selector switch to that setup. But, as I mulled all my options I had to do a repair on my U-Retro anyway already had it out of the bass it was in, which saw less and less playing time. So it was a perfect opportunity to plug it into the Combustion. The East Preamps are a high quality, and best described as 'muscular. Clean but strong and very modern but musical. They have a solid output. Tonally they are wonderfully flexible with everythning onboard at your fingertips. I have had them in every Lakland DJ5 ive owned and wouldn't have anything else. I can't wait to hear this one live now.
ooooh, sounds like it will be stunning! Congrats!Well, everyone... I'm pretty much settled in on my very first custom order to my liking Dingwall. Going to get the final price on it tomorrow, and as long as it is agreeable (which I believe will be the case based on conversations with the dealer on pricing), will put my deposit down and get myself in line.
Here's what I spec'd out in my head and sent off to my dealer. I'll be talking to him in the afternoon tomorrow to nail it all down.
I'll, of course, post here what the final build spec looks like once I place my deposit and get in line
- Afterburner 1
- 6 string
- Flamed Maple Top
- Greenburst finish (Green to Black, like this: Invalid Link Removed)
- Wenge fretboard
- No dots on the fretboard / front
- Side (green) luminlay dots
- Blacked out Headstock + Heel
- 3x pickup option
- P-tone pickup in neck position
- Passive electronics [might change this to a Glockenklang 3 band, but I think that'll put me over my imaginary budget]
- Rotary options:
- Bridge + Middle, Series
- Bridge + Neck, Series
- Bridge + Neck, Parallel
- Neck solo
- (I'll probably end up dropping in my own 5 way or 6 way rotary if I can fit one, to add a couple of other options - bridge solo and neck + middle)
- Black Hardware + Hipshot Extender Key on B string
Pretty excited for this.. I've never treated myself to a new, custom bass like this. I tend to wait for what I want to pop up used, which usually ends up being compromises. This should be pretty dang sweet. My only concerns at this point are weight and wait![]()