Ugh, the poster of the white DBird is killing me. I might need to have a look at my budget. I wanted to like the Standard (Chinese) more, but the Canadian/custom really strikes me as more desirable.
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
Just peeked at the new website!!!
Haven't got past the prima gallery..... HOLY CRAP what a beautiful group of photos!!!!
Haven't got past the prima gallery..... HOLY CRAP what a beautiful group of photos!!!!
I like that red burst ab as well. There is one word on those pics that is so depressing... "SOLD"
If that blue sparkle DBird isn't sold, how can I get in touch to buy it? :-/
I have two incredibly awesome AB1's and yet I still want more!!!
I still want an ABII and a Z3, and I want one of them to be a sixer and one to be a fretless. Oh, and I would really like D Bird fiver as well! 
BUT, every Dingwall I see and don't own makes me a little sad. LOL!The only cure I have for it is to grab one of my AB1s and play for about 2 hours
, and remind myself how fortunate I am to have the ones I have. Then I stupidly come back on this site, the Dingwall site and the Dingwall Facebook page, and all bets are off until I can play mine again.
The new website has started appearing on my iPad. This is a vast improvement!
And right off the bat, I learned something I never knew: four string AB’s have a 19mm spaced bridge! Same as the Super series!
String spacing was the big difference I’d notice going from the longscale Dingwall to the Supers, and the main reason I settled on the Super series. (Besides the easy acceptance of Fender shaped objects....)
I’m off to see if this is true for the NG series.... probably be back with really bad DAS.
And right off the bat, I learned something I never knew: four string AB’s have a 19mm spaced bridge! Same as the Super series!
String spacing was the big difference I’d notice going from the longscale Dingwall to the Supers, and the main reason I settled on the Super series. (Besides the easy acceptance of Fender shaped objects....)
I’m off to see if this is true for the NG series.... probably be back with really bad DAS.
Is the Monique amp bigger on the inside? (Sorry - couldn't resist)
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Well, I have three pickups and a D-Bird switch on the way. I am going to have to figure it out. I have been reading about pickup polarity and phase. I have yet to test the ones that I have to see what polarity and phase they are.
Does anybody know if the two pickup design is supposed to be hum-buckled?
Are the 3 pickup models typically all the same polarity and phase? Or is the middle one the opposite so they can be humbucked?
I'll have to find an old magnetic compass and do a quick check on these. Or order the fancy tool to do it.
Well, I have three pickups and a D-Bird switch on the way. I am going to have to figure it out. I have been reading about pickup polarity and phase. I have yet to test the ones that I have to see what polarity and phase they are.
Does anybody know if the two pickup design is supposed to be hum-buckled?
Are the 3 pickup models typically all the same polarity and phase? Or is the middle one the opposite so they can be humbucked?
I'll have to find an old magnetic compass and do a quick check on these. Or order the fancy tool to do it.
). Good one. Long live the Doctor!
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
I could be wrong, but the setup is 'hum cancelling' which i my limited understanding would be same phase, different polarity?
My thought was that the neck and bridge would be similarly wired and polarity and if anything the middle wouldn't. I flipped my switch today and it works perfectly. I posted in the NG thread:
I've put aside my others for now around the house so that I can really 'bond' with the feel of the new NG, and I've probably done something like 30 hours or a bit more on it at home. I really do like this bass.
I have an order for a P-Tone, one of the new straps, and a set of the stock shop-made knobs floating about somewhere in the world, but in the meantime, i have enough stuff around here to do a quick slightly mismatched change out until they arrive. a handful of the original small diameter knobs on EQ and switch, and a larger version on the Volume will do it for now.
That's not the only thing. I also opened 'er up and did a bit of re-wiring. I was sort of waiting for the P-Tone, but figured it wouldn't be that much of a deal. with out more than unscrewing and re-attaching 4 leads, I now have the patented "Burning Skies reverse 3X switching system".
It's now (back to front):
Neck solo,
Neck-Middle in series
Neck-Bridge in parallel
Bridge solo
I haven't messed around inside of these before, but I see that it comes:
-Neck Pickup in series
-Middle Pickup in parallel
-Bridge Pickup in series.
So, for me playing bass heavy music with fingerstyle, it makes more sense to have the pickup settings slated more to the neck side of things. It doesn't cause any phase/polarity/grounding issues of any kind either. Although if you're one of those people who gets sick in the stomach about taking off the control plate and digging in, have someone qualified do it for you.
Actually the Seymour Duncan page I read about pickup polarity said that for effective hum cancelling and optimum sound quality, you need to have two pickups that have both opposite polarity and opposite phase. If you have opposite phases but the same polarity you get noise and if you have opposite polarity with the same phase you get thin sound... or was that the other way around??
So you either want pickups that have completely opposite polarity and phase from each other or the same phase and polarity. If some the phase of the electrical can be changed by swapping the leads but the polarity of the magnets... not so much.
Very pretty bass you have there. Mopar Purple is awesome.
Yes, it doesn't work, so I either assume we're starting over or that there is an issue. I was going to wait for an official notice (which I'm sure won't come until next week) before trying to recreate my account as I don't want it to get messed up.
Having put a 3rd pickup in my combustion the advice direct from Dingwall was the Bridge pickup needs to go to the middle to avoid polarity issues. I can't explain the ins and outs of why, but that was Jeff's advice which I followed with success.
In my case - Bridge went to middle, neck went to bridge as I put a p-tone in the neck position.
On the @Jeff Roller conversion thread.
Dingwall NG2 to NG3 conversion
Jeff put his P-tone in the middle. Left bridge and neck as bridge and neck.
I think he used a d/bird switch. Which switch did you use?
