Dingwall Owners Club

[xnewyorka]

Will do! We played a thing with them this past summer, but this is the first 'club show' we've done with them. Should be fun.

In other news, My pedal board just blew up. I've been taking a Pedaltrain Nano+ for gigs, and finally jumped to a Classic 2. I was tired of not being able to leave straight angle cords (my inserts) plugged in for travel and now I'll have a place for my expression pedal to remain mounted. Also adding a few other bits and pieces in the next few weeks and months.

Sorry to hear about your pedalboard. I only recently hopped on the pedalboard bandwagon, and I went all in right from the start. I got a BlackBird 12x24 tolex unit (hand made in the USA, seems to be 3/4" birch plywood), with the ATA flight case, and it is rock solid. It's super convenient to leave everything always connected. I don't even need to ever plug anything into the first or last pedal, because they are permanently wired to the Neutrik jacks built right into the board. It's a slick design. I mounted my power supply underneath, and installed a switched power outlet on the side of the pedalboard for maximum convenience. This way, for rehearsals, I don't even need to remove the pedalboard from the bottom half of the flight case, and don't even need to lift it up to run a power cable to the power supply. It is hardwired to the inside side of the outlet. Simple job to connect it using crimp-on spade lugs, no soldering required. (Edit: OK, I see that I did solder the ground wire instead of using a spade lug. The spade lugs were sold in packs of 6, and I needed 6 for the black and white wires and I was too cheap to buy a second pack of 6 and waste 5 of them, so I left the green wire exposed and soldered it.) The power outlet came from Amazon for $7 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and the spade lugs were $3 at Lowe's.
Invalid Link Removed

 

[BurningSkies]

Oh, you’re really going down the effects rabbit hole now...

*sigh. Probably. I was finding that while I could fit most of my basics on the Nano+, it was a little too tight for convenience in travel and I'm starting to get a little more space to work with. Now with the volume/expression sitch and the addition of a swell, etc. I've also been looking at something to drive the X/D rather than the on-board drive that the Divaricator has. My problem is I like the weird 5h1t. I'll also be adding my quirky ol' early 80's Ibanez dual mode chorus to the setup (the two choruses fight with each other causing some odd sweeping de-tunes). Also considering Frazz Dazzler v2.

I actually used the D/V+X/D in the studio on the new EP, so that's pretty set in stone for the near future. We also have a few more new ones that have additional color, thus the volume & matching expression sweeps, also with layers of octave, drive & delay.

Sorry to hear about your pedalboard. I only recently hopped on the pedalboard bandwagon, and I went all in right from the start. I got a BlackBird 12x24 tolex unit (hand made in the USA), with the ATA flight case, and it is rock solid. It's super convenient to leave everything always connected. Don't ever even need to plug anything into the two pedals at the ends, because they are permanently wired to the Neutrik jacks built right into the board. It's a slick design. I mounted my power supply underneath, and installed a switched power outlet on the side of the pedalboard for maximum convenience. This way, for rehearsals, I don't even need to remove the pedalboard from the bottom half of the flight case, and don't even need to lift it up to run a power cable to the power supply. It is hardwired to the inside side of the outlet. Simple job to connect it using crimp-on spade lugs, no soldering required. The power outlet came from Amazon for $7 and the spade lugs were $3 at Lowe's.

Nice setup. I've been ok with the Pedaltrain bag so far, but you never know. Mission creep.

 

[xnewyorka]

I've been ok with the Pedaltrain bag so far, but you never know. Mission creep.

My rule of thumb is that anything that leaves the house has to be bullet proof, ESPECIALLY if it ever gets packed by, unpacked by, or handled by, someone other than its owner. Murphy's law of touring states that anything that CAN get destroyed WILL get destroyed. (I thought for sure you would know that by now!!) Hence when I decided to start going on auditions, my very first purchase was a pedalboard that came in a flight case.

By the way, the Diago PB03 Showman is a nicely made 12x24 board that gets you half way toward a flight case. It's all wood, and the case bottom is also the pedalboard. Just remove the top and plug in. The big downside is that there is no "underside" since it sits on the floor, so your power supply has to take up space on the board, and all your wires are visible. I got one of those as well, to house several pedals that migrate between guitar use and bass use - expression pedal (used on Ring Mod and Manta envelope filter), Wah, Empress Tape Delay, Reverb, Tuner, and a second compressor to go at the end of the signal chain if desired.

 

[BurningSkies]

My rule of thumb is that anything that leaves the house has to be bullet proof, ESPECIALLY if it ever gets packed by, unpacked by, or handled by, someone other than its owner. Murphy's law of touring states that anything that CAN get destroyed WILL get destroyed. (I thought for sure you would know that by now!!) Hence when I decided to start going on auditions, my very first purchase was a pedalboard that came in a flight case.

I agree entirely...but believe it or not, all our strings players have soft boards. Our two guitarists actually use suitcases purchased at the Salvation army for theirs. The good news is that all our gear handling is done by the 7 of us... so no union stagehands.

 

[DiabolusInMusic]

I doubt anybody is interested but they have a B-stock NG2 5er at my local L&M. I didn't snap any pics but it is metallic black. I am pretty sure it was a B stock due to the body not being sealed right and the paint soaking into the lines but I didn't ask. That was the only issue I could find. The price tag is $1845, about $200 off.

 

[xnewyorka]

I doubt anybody is interested but they have a B-stock NG2 5er at my local L&M.

I'm guessing you don't work in sales! ;-)

 

[singlemalt]

I’d love to see more pictures of the blackbird pedal board. I’ve got a little time off and I’ve been thinking about building a board/ hardcase to fianally organize the looper and pedals.

I checked over in the effects forum, but there are surprisingly few DIY efforts in that rabbit hole. I’m picturing something with it’s own hinged, detachable lid, and road case hasps. Hidden power supply. I think making the lid and case a pair of wedge shapes would let me use the lid to tilt the board.

I really liked the recessed, switched power cord and Nuetrik jacks.

It’ll have to be fairly substantial to get the RC 300, B3, volume pedal plus other stuff. I figure the main reason this stuff doesn’t go out much is the hassle of moving and hooking up everything.

I’ll use Duratex for the finish.

Anybody tried building their own? Power supply suggestions? I’m just using a basic one spot wall wart.

It’s not so much about saving money as scratching the springtime DIY / shoptime itch. Otherwise, I’d probably start another fEarful, and I’m covered on cabs.

 

[xnewyorka]

I’d love to see more pictures of the blackbird pedal board. I’ve got a little time off and I’ve been thinking about building a board/ hardcase to fianally organize the looper and pedals.

I checked over in the effects forum, but there are surprisingly few DIY efforts in that rabbit hole. I’m picturing something with it’s own hinged, detachable lid, and road case hasps. Hidden power supply. I think making the lid and case a pair of wedge shapes would let me use the lid to tilt the board.

I really liked the recessed, switched power cord and Nuetrik jacks.

It’ll have to be fairly substantial to get the RC 300, B3, volume pedal plus other stuff. I figure the main reason this stuff doesn’t go out much is the hassle of moving and hooking up everything.

I’ll use Duratex for the finish.

Anybody tried building their own? Power supply suggestions? I’m just using a basic one spot wall wart.

It’s not so much about saving money as scratching the springtime DIY / shoptime itch. Otherwise, I’d probably start another fEarful, and I’m covered on cabs.

Certainly if you are handy and have the right tools it would be easy enough to build something like the Blackbird. It is not rocket science. It seems like the corners must be dadoed. (How do you spell that?) The thing feels so solid I'm sure you could drive a truck over it (without pedals on, of course.) Before spending the big bucks on this thing, I watched some YouTube DIY videos and was blown away by the construction skill and quality of some of them. I have zero free time and I could see it would take me a week or two to build one that I would be happy with, so I decided to buy instead of build.

For the power supply, if you aren't using any digital pedals and your pedals sound clean and are all working and your 1-Spot meets your current requirements, no need to change it. I have a couple of digital pedals that buzz or hiss with the 1-Spot but they sound dead quiet with the Voodoo Labs PedalPower 2 Plus. It has 8 outlets and I have 13 pedals, so I daisychain five of the low current pedals that are not sensitive to the quality of the power on one of the high current ports. The Darkglass pedals each need their own isolated supply to work properly. The Cali76 runs on 18V so it takes two ports.

Attached are some more photos of my populated BlackBird.
And the flight case is here: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I'm wondering if anybody out in pedal-land is using this 3M stuff instead of Velcro:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V3RALO/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3NP75M3BYS0OU&colid=1FCUXEND8SXWY&psc=0
I like that the pedals won't stick to the carpet if they are taken off the board, and I like that it's clear so you can see through it just in case there is something you want to see on the bottom of the pedal. It does come in black too.

 

[singlemalt]

Thanks very much!

Handy and too many tools, that’s me. I do some tradeshow work as well as general carpentry, so I’ve got rolls and rolls of Velcro. (I never seem to talk my way into doing NAMM, it’s another Union, IATSI, in Anaheim, and no lack of willing hands for that one)

This will be a great excuse to get out in the shop and clean up the mess that seems to accumulate when I’m working.

I might build two or three while I’m at it, since the looper is so big and heavy and really isn’t part of any band efforts. I’m sure the design will evolve as I go.

First something super simple that will fit on the shelf where everything lives 95% of the time for practice.

I built a stand up workstation from gleaned and leftover materials a couple years ago, in a basement room that had to be totally rebuilt. I splurged on a heavy duty drafting stool for when I want to sit. But standing works better for practice, cuts down on screen sucking, and saves my back.

B3 and pedals live on a pull out shelf.

That shouldn’t take much room.

To the man cave!

 

[Starflyer59]

Here is a video i did with my friend Bebe Buckskin a few weeks ago and its just the Combustion 5 plugged into a REDDI straight into the recording console no effects, no compression all i did on my bass is put it on bridge/neck parallel with the treble pot cut, there's an interview at the begining if you are interested in watching but if you press play it takes you straight into the music performance, please let me know what you think.

 

[BurningSkies]

I doubt anybody is interested but they have a B-stock NG2 5er at my local L&M. I didn't snap any pics but it is metallic black. I am pretty sure it was a B stock due to the body not being sealed right and the paint soaking into the lines but I didn't ask. That was the only issue I could find. The price tag is $1845, about $200 off.

Not interested in buying, but I'm interested in what you mean by "black paint soaking into the lines"? Neck? Body?

 

[DiabolusInMusic]

Not interested in buying, but I'm interested in what you mean by "black paint soaking into the lines"? Neck? Body?

I probably should have said "grain." If you fail to seal an ash body (probably other woods as well) prior to paint, the wood soaks into the grain and you get lines along the finish. Something like what you see here:



The Dingwall was not that bad, but the lines were quite prevalent. The neck was just a maple neck, don't think the headstock matched but I may be wrong.

 

[BurningSkies]

I probably should have said "grain." If you fail to seal an ash body (probably other woods as well) prior to paint, the wood soaks into the grain and you get lines along the finish. Something like what you see here:



The Dingwall was not that bad, but the lines were quite prevalent. The neck was just a maple neck, don't think the headstock matched but I may be wrong.

Ah, ok. I know all about shrinking into the grain. It was more of a terminology thing. I couldn't figure out what lines you were referring to.

 

[Flabzilla]

I'm wondering if anybody out in pedal-land is using this 3M stuff instead of Velcro:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V3RALO/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3NP75M3BYS0OU&colid=1FCUXEND8SXWY&psc=0
I like that the pedals won't stick to the carpet if they are taken off the board, and I like that it's clear so you can see through it just in case there is something you want to see on the bottom of the pedal. It does come in black too.

I’ve used it to mount power supplies.

 

[xnewyorka]

I’ve used it to mount power supplies.

View attachment 2912827

So what is the verdict as compared to Velcro? Which one would you choose for pedals if you were just starting out with a fresh new pedal board, and why?

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

Here is a video i did with my friend Bebe Buckskin a few weeks ago and its just the Combustion 5 plugged into a REDDI straight into the recording console no effects, no compression all i did on my bass is put it on bridge/neck parallel with the treble pot cut, there's an interview at the begining if you are interested in watching but if you press play it takes you straight into the music performance, please let me know what you think.

Very nice!

 

[Flabzilla]

So what is the verdict as compared to Velcro? Which one would you choose for pedals if you were just starting out with a fresh new pedal board, and why?

I tend to move pedals around, so for me the dual lock would be annoying for anything other than the psu. If you were certain of your pedal choices, maybe.

 

[matt11]

Here is a video i did with my friend Bebe Buckskin a few weeks ago and its just the Combustion 5 plugged into a REDDI straight into the recording console no effects, no compression all i did on my bass is put it on bridge/neck parallel with the treble pot cut, there's an interview at the begining if you are interested in watching but if you press play it takes you straight into the music performance, please let me know what you think.

Nice playing, great sound. Always happy to hear a Combustion doing its thing.

 

[J Posega]

So what is the verdict as compared to Velcro? Which one would you choose for pedals if you were just starting out with a fresh new pedal board, and why?

Dual lock is incredible, but the more of it you have sticking together, the harder it is to separate. It’s sort of overkill for pedals unless you absolutely don’t want them to move at all ever again.

 

[xnewyorka]

I tend to move pedals around, so for me the dual lock would be annoying for anything other than the psu. If you were certain of your pedal choices, maybe.

Very helpful info, thank you. I assume that means the Dual lock is harder to remove.

Dual lock is incredible, but the more of it you have sticking together, the harder it is to separate. It’s sort of overkill for pedals unless you absolutely don’t want them to move at all ever again.

I was figuring maybe two 1" x 1" squares per pedal instead of covering the entire bottom of the pedal with the stuff.
Less glue to remove at flipping time. Would that suffice?