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Dingwall Owners Club

Hi all!

Just took delivery of a new Combustion 5. Natural ash body, maple fingerboard. First five-string, currently playing an Aerodyne Jazz and a P, both rosewood fingerboards.

First impression - mixed! Smaller and lighter than I expected (my only five-string experience is my son's Stingray). It feels fragile, unlike the Fenders I'm used to. Very low action, easy to play, no buzzing. However, it sounds clanky and metallic. I'm still working out the controls. Passive and active modes almost sound the same to me, as do the four pickup positions.

The fanned frets seem pretty straightforward, except above the 12th fret (where I rarely play). The B-string feels and sounds tight, although metallic. The maple fingerboard is different, in that it's hard to see the frets and strings!

Overall, mixed feelings. I need to spend some more time with it, and I definitely need a new amp/cab.

View attachment 2929395

I think it's been determined that Dingwalls are the best basses for metal... kidding aside, I second trying nickel strings.
 
Hi all!

Just took delivery of a new Combustion 5. Natural ash body, maple fingerboard. First five-string, currently playing an Aerodyne Jazz and a P, both rosewood fingerboards.

First impression - mixed! Smaller and lighter than I expected (my only five-string experience is my son's Stingray). It feels fragile, unlike the Fenders I'm used to. Very low action, easy to play, no buzzing. However, it sounds clanky and metallic. I'm still working out the controls. Passive and active modes almost sound the same to me, as do the four pickup positions.

The fanned frets seem pretty straightforward, except above the 12th fret (where I rarely play). The B-string feels and sounds tight, although metallic. The maple fingerboard is different, in that it's hard to see the frets and strings!

Overall, mixed feelings. I need to spend some more time with it, and I definitely need a new amp/cab.

View attachment 2929395

I definitely need to learn more about strings!

So the metallic "clank" can be reduced by changing out the stainless steel strings?

One thing is when playing the (A)DG you may want to move a bit toward the neck with your fingers. And if using a pick especially so. This should reduce the "clank"

The strings should break in after a bit and not be as "metallic". Back off the treble control just a hair as suggested below.

With amp controls flat: I am a bit concerned of the no change in pickup switch positions - crank it all the way clockwise then back off one position and play for a while with everything flat, then just a wee bit back off the treble. Now play for a while...once that tone is there (with all amp controls flat), try the switch positions again - you should hear changes. Now come back to the rotary switch position one stop from all the way clockwise. Should sound like a bit of heaven - if you move your pick or fingers a bit toward the neck on ADG. If there was no change, somehow you must have a faulty/miswired switch. Now add just a small smidgen of bass and play again. Whatcha think? I usually play with everything flat but sometimes do turn the treble down just a very small amount and sometimes the bass up by an even smaller amount depending on the cabs.
 
4A60632D-4566-4700-A456-BB79822A23DB.jpeg
Picked up this 4 string AB1 this weekend, will be taking it to jam on Wednesday to give it a proper try out.
 
I definitely need to learn more about strings!

So the metallic "clank" can be reduced by changing out the stainless steel strings?

Pretty sure your 2017 Combustion would have shipped with nickel strings.
The clank is most likely a combination of brand new strings and the action being a bit low for your preference.
Play it for a couple of weeks and the strings will mellow, loosen the truss a 1/4 turn and you’ll lose a lot of the clank (quicker and easier than adjusting the string heights imo).
 
Pretty sure your 2017 Combustion would have shipped with nickel strings.
The clank is most likely a combination of brand new strings and the action being a bit low for your preference.
Play it for a couple of weeks and the strings will mellow, loosen the truss a 1/4 turn and you’ll lose a lot of the clank (quicker and easier than adjusting the string heights imo).
This is my understanding as well; they ship with Nickel strings.
 
Thanks to all for the tips and tricks! Will get through them and report back.

I really, really want to like the Combustion, but right now it's so different in so many ways from my 4-string PJ. I suppose it's a matter of time... and practice...
 
Thanks to all for the tips and tricks! Will get through them and report back.

I really, really want to like the Combustion, but right now it's so different in so many ways from my 4-string PJ. I suppose it's a matter of time... and practice...
I have been a 4-string player mostly. It was only when I got involved with the amazing low B on the Dingwalls that now I am far more comfortable on a 5-string. Hang in there with it and you most likely will grow to appreciate that low B.
 
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Pretty sure your 2017 Combustion would have shipped with nickel strings.
The clank is most likely a combination of brand new strings and the action being a bit low for your preference.
Play it for a couple of weeks and the strings will mellow, loosen the truss a 1/4 turn and you’ll lose a lot of the clank (quicker and easier than adjusting the string heights imo).

Second that
 
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1/4 turn counter-clockwise made a huge difference. Slightly higher action, less clank!
I suggest getting a spark plug feeler gauge set like the one linked below and using it to check your relief and keep it constant as the weather changes and whenever you change your strings. Once you find out what relief setting you like on a particular bass, write the setting on a piece of paper and keep it in the case for reference.
Your Combustion should be fine anywhere from .006" to .012". I'd venture a guess that you just raised it from .006" to around .008" or .009".
Measure the relief by fretting at the first and 13th frets simultaneously, and seeing how big is the gap between the 6th fret and the lowest (B in your case) string. You will need either a capo or a second person to help you, and you should check it in playing position, not with the bass lying down.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-250...21550&sr=8-1&keywords=spark+plug+feeler+gauge
 
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Thanks to all for the tips and tricks! Will get through them and report back.

I really, really want to like the Combustion, but right now it's so different in so many ways from my 4-string PJ. I suppose it's a matter of time... and practice...

Congrats on that bass!! It's really nice looking. I'd say just be patient with it. They are so very different from a standard p or j or pj. Different neck, ergonomics, electronics. Just everything.

The thing with a Dingwall is once you do learn how to utilize it you'll find that you can find a way to make it do anything you want. From model to model. The tonal options are extremely vast once you get it figured. Even more so when you start playing with the strings used.

I love stainless but understand most prefer nickel. I also second that the paysons are extremely great alternatives to Dingwall strings especially the reduced cores.

Lastly. I've never seen a delicate Dingwall. I baby mine but I'm not afraid to play them. I wouldn't be worried about it.

You may now find yourself wanting to upgrade everything else around the bass though now to maximize its prowess.... be warned!! Lol
 
What is the relationship between pickup placement and playing style?
Is it as simple as "the more pickups the more tones you can get"?
So I think "just get a Z3 and cover all the tones."

I suppose that is true, but I probably don't need all possible tones. I'm a finger picking classic rock bassist who tries to slap occasionally but I can't slap worth poopie.
Is there a pickup layout that is ideal for my style?

I understand "bridge pu is trebly, neck pu is bassy." That's the limit of my understanding. Why a bass needs 3 pu is beyond me.

I own a v1 Combustion. Finest bass I've ever owned. Looking forward to upgrading to a made-in-Canada Dingwall.
 
What is the relationship between pickup placement and playing style?
Is it as simple as "the more pickups the more tones you can get"?
So I think "just get a Z3 and cover all the tones."

I suppose that is true, but I probably don't need all possible tones. I'm a finger picking classic rock bassist who tries to slap occasionally but I can't slap worth poopie.
Is there a pickup layout that is ideal for my style?

I understand "bridge pu is trebly, neck pu is bassy." That's the limit of my understanding. Why a bass needs 3 pu is beyond me.

I own a v1 Combustion. Finest bass I've ever owned. Looking forward to upgrading to a made-in-Canada Dingwall.

The thing is is that with the 3 pick ups you can get a broader spectrum of styles but as you mentioned if there is a style that is just you then you may not need them. We all seem to gravitate one way or the other leaving a few options neglected for the most part.
On a NG you have the "music man position" which can also be achieved with a 3x. This is pretty snarly with a strong mid presence and attack. I tend to gravitate toward this for heavy music.

The bridge position pick up will give you a more mid strong sound a la Jaco. Not so trebly but more mid strong.

The neck is IMO more clean and clear with a "prettier" sound. Probably the wrong word but when I'm playing more melodic stuff by myself I love the sound. Transparent but thumpy especially if there is a p tone in place. Bridge and neck combined is kind of a standard jazz/slap sound. Depending on your preamp or tone settings. Kind of a basic run down(from my perspective) but then there is so much play in and around all of these settings. Oh. And then there is series and parallel settings as well which give you more variety generally in the form of mid boosting is my impression.
 
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What is the relationship between pickup placement and playing style?
Is it as simple as "the more pickups the more tones you can get"?
So I think "just get a Z3 and cover all the tones."

I suppose that is true, but I probably don't need all possible tones. I'm a finger picking classic rock bassist who tries to slap occasionally but I can't slap worth poopie.
Is there a pickup layout that is ideal for my style?

I understand "bridge pu is trebly, neck pu is bassy." That's the limit of my understanding. Why a bass needs 3 pu is beyond me.

I own a v1 Combustion. Finest bass I've ever owned. Looking forward to upgrading to a made-in-Canada Dingwall.
I suppose if we are only speaking of playing live and a person knows they will only use one setting, one sound, and the 2x gets that particular "sound in your head" there probably is not the need for the 3x pickups. But I can also see if a person is using the bass to record, there is so much tonal ground that can be covered with the 3x. Especially with the S/P switches. This is the configuration I order with all our Canadian basses. Sure, it is an upgrade cost, but considering the small investment to get that wide a variety of sound we feel it is worth it. For me personally, I use only one setting of the NG2 because it IS the "sound in my head". But I have already thought of 2 or 3 other settings of the 3x for a couple of different songs I want to record.