Has anyone actually noticed a difference in stiffness and stability in necks that have graphite support rods?
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Do graphite rods make a difference?
- Thread starter alexbib
- Start date
Yes, here's my experience:
I did a three week tour with a Spector that has Graphite reinforcements in the neck. The temperatures were between 15 - 40 degrees celcius (with some torrential rain / extreme moisture added to the mix a couple of times), the bass was transported in a Gator case in the baggage compartment of a Nightliner bus with the rest of the gear.
I didn't ask the other bassist how their basses were handling this, but my bass was in tune 99% of the time I started to do a Soundcheck (I don't retune after gigs, just clean the instrument). I think I did some retuning (E & G -strings) only on one gig. I checked the neck also every once & while, but it was rock solid - no need for any adjustments.
...and this is why I vote Graphite (reinforcements)!
I did a three week tour with a Spector that has Graphite reinforcements in the neck. The temperatures were between 15 - 40 degrees celcius (with some torrential rain / extreme moisture added to the mix a couple of times), the bass was transported in a Gator case in the baggage compartment of a Nightliner bus with the rest of the gear.
I didn't ask the other bassist how their basses were handling this, but my bass was in tune 99% of the time I started to do a Soundcheck (I don't retune after gigs, just clean the instrument). I think I did some retuning (E & G -strings) only on one gig. I checked the neck also every once & while, but it was rock solid - no need for any adjustments.
...and this is why I vote Graphite (reinforcements)!
I experienced this with the Highway 1 old and the upgraded version (graphite rods). Despite the fact that except the bridge, everything else was the same, the new one sounded a bit more mid range enhanced (nice nasal tone possible).
Tone's more even up and down the scale, a little more projection somewhere in the mids, less chance of (bad) dead spots, a bit more sustain, something subtle lost in the "woody" tone department. Overall, though, they are more stable and seem less likely to need frequent tweaks. 
- Jun 24, 2006
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- Endorsing Artist: MTD basses and strings; Bergantino Amps & Cabs
Tone's more even up and down the scale, a little more projection somewhere in the mids, less chance of (bad) dead spots, a bit more sustain, something subtle lost in the "woody" tone department. Overall, though, they are more stable and seem less likely to need frequent tweaks.
Yes, here's my experience:
I did a three week tour with a Spector that has Graphite reinforcements in the neck. The temperatures were between 15 - 40 degrees celcius (with some torrential rain / extreme moisture added to the mix a couple of times), the bass was transported in a Gator case in the baggage compartment of a Nightliner bus with the rest of the gear.
I didn't ask the other bassist how their basses were handling this, but my bass was in tune 99% of the time I started to do a Soundcheck (I don't retune after gigs, just clean the instrument). I think I did some retuning (E & G -strings) only on one gig. I checked the neck also every once & while, but it was rock solid - no need for any adjustments.
...and this is why I vote Graphite (reinforcements)!
as your bass ages, and the woods shift, the rods will fight with the truss rod, leaving you with no way to adjust the bass. Has happened with 2 (!) custom basses I had. Sure they make the neck stiffer; more sustain...perhaps. But the negatives far outweighed the benefits.
Won't go with them again.
Cheers,
Cameron
My Conklin is the only bass I own without graphite truss rod reinforcement and it seems to be the most stable. I'm sure the Dymondwood fingerboard helps, but has proven to be the most stable bass in my collection.
How long does this process take? I have a 3 year old Carvin and haven't noticed any truss rod adjustment problems. Does this mean that my Warmoth necks with their steel reinforcing rods are going to give me trouble down the road?
I really don't know if graphite rods help or not. I have a Dingwall Afterburner and a Sadowsky Metro, both without graphite rods, and they seem very stable and both have great B strings (a stiff neck being a prerequisite for a good low B).
I spoke with Mike Tobias on the phone once, and I believe he was against using them and felt they weren't necessary if proper care was taken. This was interesting to me since he helped develop the Modulus Genesis basses, which I assume includes the neck design with that large graphite spine. I don't know, but I have graphite support in my Lakland's and those necks are WONDERFUL! Super stable, don't shift a lot and take minimal adjustments. That said, I don't know how they'd sound without them, so who knows?
For me, it seems the Laklands I own now approach the stability of the Modulus Quantum and VJ that I had in the past, so I'm very happy with them. Whether the graphite is to thank or not, I don't know.
For me, it seems the Laklands I own now approach the stability of the Modulus Quantum and VJ that I had in the past, so I'm very happy with them. Whether the graphite is to thank or not, I don't know.
I own several graphite reinforced basses for more than a decade now. None has shifted and no problems so far. I am aware that the high level or materials involved as well as proper handling, design and construction leaves very little margin for problems, thus allowing proper support of the neck. Dingwall and Ken Lawrence basses are the first two that come in my mind (I'll add more names later) and I've owned then for more than a decade
I have 13 basses and have no idea which ones (if any) have graphite rods, so my vote is a really uneducated NO.
Being a graphite (Status) fan-boy I always want to disagree with this sentiment, but the reality is that a well built wood neck will be nearly as stable as a carbon fiber neck. My old wenge necked 1997 Warwick Corvette 4-string didn't move any more than the 2000 Modulus Flea 4 I had at the time. Both of my current Status J necked basses move less than either of the aforementioned basses, but the difference is minimal at best.
Well, many know my general rap on these type of issues. It's very hard, if not impossible to partial out the impact of one part of a bass, or a construction method, without having a relatively large sample of very similar instruments that vary primarily on the feature of interest.
It just so happens
, that I've played a bunch of Sadowsky Metro's (no graphite) and Sadowsky NYC's (graphite rods) and Lakland Skyline (no graphite) and USA Lakland (graphite), with at least relatively similar specs.
I noticed no difference in stiffness, response, dead spots, stability, etc., etc.
My feeling is it is basically hooohaaa, but probably does no harm. This falls into the area of 'I wouldn't buy a bass because it has graphite rods, and would not eliminate a bass from consideration because it didn't'.
Edit: Of course, all graphite necks, or mostly graphite necks are quite different in tone and rigidity. But that's a different topic than the OP.
It just so happens
, that I've played a bunch of Sadowsky Metro's (no graphite) and Sadowsky NYC's (graphite rods) and Lakland Skyline (no graphite) and USA Lakland (graphite), with at least relatively similar specs.I noticed no difference in stiffness, response, dead spots, stability, etc., etc.
My feeling is it is basically hooohaaa, but probably does no harm. This falls into the area of 'I wouldn't buy a bass because it has graphite rods, and would not eliminate a bass from consideration because it didn't'.
Edit: Of course, all graphite necks, or mostly graphite necks are quite different in tone and rigidity. But that's a different topic than the OP.
+1 to the last two posts. I don't consider graphite in the equation when looking at an instrument. Much more important to me is the reputation of the builder, and even then there's no guarantee. I had a Stingray5 that suffered from neck shift more than any instrument I've ever owned. I've had folks here at TB get mad at me for even mentioning that, claiming their's never budge. I had a G&L SB2 with the infamous 3 bolt neck and it was as stable as anything else. However the L2500 Tribby was somewhat shifty. Of course, my Modulus basses never budged one bit unless I wanted them to. My Lakland 55-02, with the graphite, is almost that stable. It never gets so far out of whack that it's unplayable (like the Stingray5 I mentioned), but I do adjust it every so often just to get it right where I like it. However, my 44-02 which has no graphite seems to be just as stable as the 55-02. Maybe the 55-02's flat sawn neck is less stable than the quarter sawn of the 55-94. I don't know. Being on the Gulf Coast, I think I expose these instruments to conditions that are about as rough as it gets. Indoor, air-conditioned gigs one day to blazing hot outdoor gigs the next, with humidty so high you can hardly breath. Only that Stingray was a real pain to deal with, and even then I think it was just something about that one instrument.
I believe some instruments can have issues. I know Sting went through a phase with his Fenders where he put Modulus necks on them to help with stability issues he was having on tour. I'm sure he didn't do that arbitrarily. But there are a lot of Fender's on the road and I'm sure they aren't all having issues. I know Lakland says they used properly aged wood in there necks before they are shaped, and this is the most important aspect for stability. I'm no expert, but I tend to believe them.
I believe some instruments can have issues. I know Sting went through a phase with his Fenders where he put Modulus necks on them to help with stability issues he was having on tour. I'm sure he didn't do that arbitrarily. But there are a lot of Fender's on the road and I'm sure they aren't all having issues. I know Lakland says they used properly aged wood in there necks before they are shaped, and this is the most important aspect for stability. I'm no expert, but I tend to believe them.
Yes. Graphite rods are 4 times stronger than steel relative to weight. Impressive? Graphite is only as good as the man designing with it and installing it. So maybe the word graphite reinforced has a new meaning? I have heard opinions that go 180 degrees apart on how and why to use graphite. It boils down to this...the neck needs reinforcing where? Where does the neck need to bend and where does it need to be straight? I contend that graphite used properly is used sparingly and bonded with no expense spared. Maybe it's easier to to just use plain old wood and forget the modern complexities?
Too many variables. As KJung and Eublet say, there're too many variables in the equations. Now, if someone took the time to build about 24 identical necks, except half had graphite bars and 12 didn't, then bolted them all onto the exact same body, THEN we MIGHT be able to attribute some sonic differences to the graphit. Just comparing one bass to another has too many differences in wood, strings, hardware, etc.
I have three with graphite, but I only know that because it's in the literature. The two US Laklands also have quarter sawn neck wood so that's another factor in the neck stability. They don't have deadspots like my Fenders have, but then they're such different instruments that's it's not a valid comparison.
BTW, one of my Laklands is 12 years old, and it's never "fought" the truss rod.
jte
I have three with graphite, but I only know that because it's in the literature. The two US Laklands also have quarter sawn neck wood so that's another factor in the neck stability. They don't have deadspots like my Fenders have, but then they're such different instruments that's it's not a valid comparison.
BTW, one of my Laklands is 12 years old, and it's never "fought" the truss rod.
jte
I would say no. I've been with Warmoth for four years now and have seen thousands of necks go out the door. I have not seen any stability issues with the steel rods and truss rod. However, I have heard from many repeat and long time customers how stable our necks are.
