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Dunlop Strings - one word "Wow"

Hope you have stainless frets then, or you'll be doing a fret job way before you thought you should.

I’ve never bought SS strings intentionally, but recently got a set, maybe MF’s mistake, maybe mine (intended on getting DR nickel low riders, but got the SS ones), but I did a little research, and I have a feeling that SS’s aren’t as bad as all-that on the frets.

Anyways, I’m gonna put them on my Squier backup just for chits and giggles and see how they sound.
 
I am an official convert.

I ordered a 5 string "Trujillo" set recently because I wanted to try tapercores on my Bongo 5. After installing them, I was getting some nasty overtones in the higher registers. I tried to solve the issue the best I could to no avail.

I emailed their customer service department for advice on getting rid of the wolftones. Bottom line, we all agreed my bass may not be the best candidate for tapercores (piezo bridge saddles, too much wiggle room in the grooves).

Needless to say the went over and above what they should to keep me as a customer. Their standard nickel 5 string set is awesome. Much better feel and tone than any other strings (D'Addario, EB, DR) I've tried on the Bongo.

Great product and great customer service!
 
Yes, the nickel plated steels are awesome..

Now I understand why Trujillo's tone sounds like someone throwing silverware at a pile of hot pickups on a floor!

Seriously, though... Hooray for the Nickel Plated Steel Dunlop strings!
 
How do these fit on a string-through bass with 4-in-line headstock (Peavey T-40)? I've got some regular "Long scale" D'addario strings on it, and the E-string tapers before even hitting the nut, so they're unusable (D'addario doesn't make a super-long E).
 
How do these fit on a string-through bass with 4-in-line headstock (Peavey T-40)? I've got some regular "Long scale" D'addario strings on it, and the E-string tapers before even hitting the nut, so they're unusable (D'addario doesn't make a super-long E).

You should be very good on the legnth. I have two Sadowsky 5 strings and the strings are further down the headstock than yours.... I have the B E A D then the G on the bottom of the headstock...

I still have to cut the strings to ensure they're not too long to wrap too many times on the posts. Pick up a set... they're inexpensive and wether you pick the nickel plated steels or the stainless steels, you will love them.

I'd also like to see a pic of your bass if you don't mind.
 
I've been hip to Dunlop guitar strings for a few years now and they are certainly making a stellar product for the price...

Anyone know if their bass sets will fit a supposed 35" (thru-body only) Traben Array fiver? String companies are just pissing me off now by omitting the true scale/length of their string sets. I don't want to fall outta love with Dunlop - we got a good thing going.. :bassist:
 
I've been hip to Dunlop guitar strings for a few years now and they are certainly making a stellar product for the price...

Anyone know if their bass sets will fit a supposed 35" (thru-body only) Traben Array fiver? String companies are just pissing me off now by omitting the true scale/length of their string sets. I don't want to fall outta love with Dunlop - we got a good thing going.. :bassist:

Dunlop and contact them...

I did and they replied the same day. I also got a free set of strings. They asked if I tried the Stainless steels. I had not, so they offered to give me a free set and even pay the shipping. They're quite sweet, (the company and the strings) to say the least. Quick repsonse and I'm sure they'd happily give you any info you're looking for.
 
I'm trying to get my mind around the basics of strings. Will someone please tell me if I'm on the rigtht track? Please:

Stainless is brighter. For the slap-happy guys. They're not kind to frets.

Nickel makes for a deeper tone? Basic bass strings going back to the Paleoproterozoic Era?

Also, I am planning on putting the fattest four strings from a 5-string pack onto a Fender Jazz bass, tuning BEAD. Should I go as big as 130. Yes, I will probably take the axe to a Luthier, for nut cutting.

I think I just want flatwound strings and nothing fancy, but I like tone and I like deep, hollow tone. With punch.
 
I don't know, I've used stainless steel strings countless times and my frets are all fine. Normal wear, nothing excessive. Maybe if you dig in a lot or dig and bend a lot?

Nickel are usually a bit tamer on the top end of things, while stainless are zingy and bright.
 
Dunlop and contact them...

I did and they replied the same day. I also got a free set of strings. They asked if I tried the Stainless steels. I had not, so they offered to give me a free set and even pay the shipping. They're quite sweet, (the company and the strings) to say the least. Quick repsonse and I'm sure they'd happily give you any info you're looking for.

Sadly, I emailed them from the customer service link on their site and still haven't heard anything but I needed strings. I read on their FAQ that all of their bass sets are wound to between 37" to 37.5" so I took the plunge and bought their 45-125 SS set.

Unfortunately, the low B and A taper a fraction of a mm before the nut!! So needless to say, I'm not a happy camper in buzzville.

I'm going to email them again with the attached pic. Hopefully, I'll be able to get somewhere with replacements..
 
Sadly, I emailed them from the customer service link on their site and still haven't heard anything but I needed strings. I read on their FAQ that all of their bass sets are wound to between 37" to 37.5" so I took the plunge and bought their 45-125 SS set.

Unfortunately, the low B and A taper a fraction of a mm before the nut!! So needless to say, I'm not a happy camper in buzzville.

I'm going to email them again with the attached pic. Hopefully, I'll be able to get somewhere with replacements..

Had the same problem on my 35" scale Lakland where I strung through the body. Probably not an issue if I didn't string through the body and went through the bridge only, but luckily, I don't have any real buzz or weird overtones occuring. I like the feel and sound so I am happy, but a few extra mm would have been better for my setup as well.
 
Had the same problem on my 35" scale Lakland where I strung through the body. Probably not an issue if I didn't string through the body and went through the bridge only, but luckily, I don't have any real buzz or weird overtones occuring. I like the feel and sound so I am happy, but a few extra mm would have been better for my setup as well.

Now I'm wishing I had the option for bridge-thru. My "bigger badder whatever" bridge is body-thru only...

I've been burned now by supposed "Super Long Scale" DR's, EB's, GHS and now Dunlop. Would it really kill these string mfr's to thread up a few more inches? If they can't help me out I guess I'm back to Peavey Cirrus or my last set of MTD's stayed nice for a while (but they were Nickels).
 
I've been using these for a long time and posted on here about them, but just had a not so good experience. Strung up a new set on one of my basses. First day, fine...next day, start playing, and the E string breaks at the ball end:-/ Bummer...thought ok...these things happen. I email them, and no response...it's been about a week so far. I really like the strings, but kinda off putting, not getting a response.