• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

EBMM StingRay Special Club

#7,521
Benko said:
In 2022 I believe the batteries & power management is still something that could be improved on.

I have the Batt-O-Meter but it does not work on 18v pre-amp (which are becoming very common now) so it's a bit of a hassle to take out the battery and test each of them.

Yes the common practice would be to just change the batteries at regular period but...my Sustainabiliy-heart is telling me that it's not a good move for the environment...

Well, next evolution for the Stingray is a passive/active switch, c'mon Ibanez is doing it and it's a great back up options
Click to expand...

My 2012 Classic has a active/passive switch. It’s a 2 band tone with the extra knob switches
3CA9022E-C7E1-4B3B-BF6A-8BE6603F7E0F.jpeg
to passive when pulled out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hot Rats, Strung_Low, Wicked G and 9 others
#7,523
PrimitiveMan said:
Well if they weren't Duracell, then I don't think they weren't the original batteries. Who knows how long they had been in there before you got the bass?

FYI related to batteries-
I was having a weird popping sound every now and again happen. I read that quick release battery boxes can have bad contact between the battery and the connector pieces and cause noise or slightly weak signal. I put a small piece of folded paper at the back of each battery and the problem went away. Basically I made a snugger fit so the battery stays in better contact. I think this is why they recommend Duracell (which was in there already) as they are very slightly longer than some others. I was even reading that some have to eventually bend the contact pieces upward to keep good contact too. Seems like a rarer problem but wanted to share.
Click to expand...

I accidentally stepped on my cord while lifting up my bass and boom, it all stopped working. I could not get the bass to 'turn on' again. Called EB and got a replacement input jack (c'mon EB, it's an output jack) ordered and soldered in. It worked for a second and cut out again. Then I pushed on one of the battery doors and like magic it started working. The battery door is pushed in past flush in order to make it work, so I was considering some foil on the contact side. But why didn't I think about paper on the non-conducting side?! Thanks!

Also wish I had known this battery door issue was a thing before swapping out the jack. Oh well...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Staccato, GregC, PrimitiveMan and 1 other person
#7,528
Last night I did something a little different. I normally set the switch on my HH on position 3 or 4, but yesterday I was playing on a large stage with subs directly underneath it.

While I could hear myself fine, I was missing some growl. I think my cabs, subs and bleed from the mains was mixing a bit too much and I was losing a little something.

After a few songs it dawned on me to switch to position 1 and bam there it was, growl and articulation. I've always liked, but not loved the single H tone as I find it a bit nasally.

Not so with the Special HH, I will definitely be using that position more. BTW I was running them through an Orange 4 Stroke and 2 OBC115's.
PXL_20220430_063022152.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nekomata, Mr_O'B, Jim C and 3 others
#7,529
  • Like
Reactions: LadyLoveStingRay5
#7,530
Batteries:
I've posted this before but don't do so on the EB forum as they used to bite your head off. Nobody goes there anymore anyway.
A Duracell is approximately .020" longer than an Energizer. If you have an old style SR (like my 83') you have to physically force the factory recommended Duracell battery into the cavity. An Energizer or ProCell fits well.
Sounds like with the new style battery box, you are best served with the Duracell although a thin cardboard shim sounds like it would work with other batteries. For reference, a sheet of copy paper is about .003" thick.

Modding a Special? At close to $3K it should be ready to go! (said the old guy who remembers buying these bases used for under $1.5 K for years).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stranger Danger and PhinDog
#7,534
Wicked G said:
Last night I did something a little different. I normally set the switch on my HH on position 3 or 4, but yesterday I was playing on a large stage with subs directly underneath it.

While I could hear myself fine, I was missing some growl. I think my cabs, subs and bleed from the mains was mixing a bit too much and I was losing a little something.

After a few songs it dawned on me to switch to position 1 and bam there it was, growl and articulation. I've always liked, but not loved the single H tone as I find it a bit nasally.

Not so with the Special HH, I will definitely be using that position more. BTW I was running them through an Orange 4 Stroke and 2 OBC115's.
View attachment 4676542
Click to expand...
It really is stage and mix dependent. I’m usually a 3/4 guy but 1 and even 5 can work under different circumstances

I don’t have much use for 2.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wicked G and PhinDog
#7,536
Stranger Danger said:
It really is stage and mix dependent. I’m usually a 3/4 guy but 1 and even 5 can work under different circumstances

I don’t have much use for 2.
Click to expand...
Interesting how we all like different things. I use position 2 most. (Outer singles) followed by 5 (neck humbucker) then 1 (bridge humbucker).
I’ll have to use both buckers and middle singles more.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bass7755, Stranger Danger and Wicked G

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back