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EBMM StingRay Special Club

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We’ll, here’s the Stingray I picked up yesterday. EBMM’s serial number finder puts it at January 2019. Only issue is the saddle screws as mentioned above. To get the action close to where I like it the neck needs to be almost flat. That obviously introduces a bit of fret noise. I’ll try getting in touch with EBMM and get the shorter screws. A shim would be just as easy though.
 
For a few minutes last night as I was making the adjustments, I noticed the G string bridge sitting very nearly flat on the bridge. I was thinking, after all the Stingrays I've owned, is this new Stingray Special going to be the first Stingray I've ever had to add a neck shim?

But after looking closer and playing it a bit, I felt I should adjust the neck to be a bit straighter, causing the need to slightly raise the bridge saddles. While they are pretty close to sitting flat on the bridge plate, the hex screws are sitting on the plate.

So I just finished playing the bass with this recent setup and I think I've hit on a combination of relief and action height that feels really good. I can detect no problem frets, unevenness and especially, no quality control issues whatsoever, as with any other Stingray I've ever picked up.

The issue wasn't me thinking anything was wrong with the bass, but I just couldn't decide on a set-up that felt good. Last night was the third night I made adjustments trying to find that balance of relief and string height.

I agree, a PLEK job would be nice, but I'm gonna give this one a while, then have it PLEKed, or at least, looked at.

But I'm thrilled by this bass. It's brand new and it feels like it needs some breaking in. I'm gonna make that happen...:D
 
View attachment 5129181 We’ll, here’s the Stingray I picked up yesterday. EBMM’s serial number finder puts it at January 2019. Only issue is the saddle screws as mentioned above. To get the action close to where I like it the neck needs to be almost flat. That obviously introduces a bit of fret noise. I’ll try getting in touch with EBMM and get the shorter screws. A shim would be just as easy though.
I'm trying to understand how shorter saddle screws will mitigate the fret noise.
 
I'm trying to understand how shorter saddle screws will mitigate the fret noise.
It’s a weird design where you can’t lower the saddle down completely as the screw stops at some point, I think it was only an issue on the A and D strings as the E and G already used the shorter screws. I don’t have my bass to hand right now, so can’t explain it better I’m afraid.
 
It’s a weird design where you can’t lower the saddle down completely as the screw stops at some point, I think it was only an issue on the A and D strings as the E and G already used the shorter screws. I don’t have my bass to hand right now, so can’t explain it better I’m afraid.
The hollow saddles are not threaded at the top end, so the screw travel stops there.
 
Although my Smoked Chrome SLO Special doesn't have any action adjust issues, Ernie Ball sells 3 packs of shims (various thickness) that are great! I use them in a few of my Fender basses :cool:

Neck Pocket Shims - Pack of 3

Okay, I admit it…

I just ordered a set of those pocket shims…

Just in case, doncha know….:roflmao:
 
That is what I love so much about the Specials. They can do the Vintage 2Band StingRay sounds. However, those neodymium pickups and the preamp can get some nice full , smooth and warm almost passive like tones. Especially with flats.
All 4 of my Specials wear flats…… TI flats on the “Special “ Specials . ( Fretless and Short Scale). Slinky Cobalts on the 5H and 5HH.
How do you get the vintage 2 band sound?