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Eden Forum Disappears

Here you go! All in high rez, so you can zoom in. A few things - I didn't see any values, part numbers, or any numbers/letters at all for that matter on any component except the shrink tubing. Also, looks like the 7 pin isn't using all of the pins available so I would assume that the layout from the five pin would be transferable, for lack of a better term.
 

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Here you go! All in high rez, so you can zoom in. A few things - I didn't see any values, part numbers, or any numbers/letters at all for that matter on any component except the shrink tubing. Also, looks like the 7 pin isn't using all of the pins available so I would assume that the layout from the five pin would be transferable, for lack of a better term.
alright! that's amazing! thank you so much
 
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I have an opportunity to pic up a WT800C that was made in China. Is this a bad thing? Should I have any concerns? Chassis presents as well kept, except for multiple broken 1/4 inputs fo the effects loop.
IMG_1735.png

Am I walkin into a headache here?
 
I’m an Eden user from way back in the day. Thanks you for the clarification. I assume this is a unit produced when Marshall had purchased Eden. Either way, picking it up next week ( hopefully , unless the seller vanishes) . Fingers crossed, but I shall proceed with the buy.

I’ve opted to buy this as a solution to a (2) 4 ohm cab config. I have no desire to BiAmp the cabs. From what I gather, I can run this as a dual mono config and have full range go to both cabs. Is that correct? Or am I stuck biAmp’ing and splitting the freq center?
 
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I have an opportunity to pic up a WT800C that was made in China. Is this a bad thing? Should I have any concerns? Chassis presents as well kept, except for multiple broken 1/4 inputs fo the effects loop.
View attachment 7169455
Am I walkin into a headache here?
Actually, the move to have them made in China was due to a period where USM (who owned Eden at the time) had moved the manufacturing facility for Eden gear and that facility was putting out a lot of dead on arrival amps. New to Eden techs weren't doing everything right and their quality control in the new spot was terrible. Eden had been making their Nemesis amps in China for over a decade at this point and so they decided to have that factory in China also manufacture their top-of-the-line amps too, since they were already used to working on Eden amps.

That immediately solved the defectives problem and the "made in China" amps have been super reliable. That doesn't mean you shouldn't have it checked out, but odds are it's a great amp. Odds are you can have those broken plastic jacks replaced and get the amp checked for 1-hour of tech time.

Unlike the WT800A versions that were the original version of the WT800, the WT800C will handle a 2Ω load per channel producing 550-watts rms per channel and it can bridge down to 4Ω with 1100-watts rms of power. It's always easy to spot a WT800C because they are the only WT800 amps that that have "the porch light", which is a Backlit Logo on the front. The porch light comes on when you power it up and goes off when you power it down. It's the only WT series amp that has that. My Terra Nova class D amp (TN226) also has the porch light, but that WT800C is the only one of the WT series that has one.

It's great amp!

If you get this amp and you need an owners manual for it let me know and I can attach one in pdf form for you. Also, if you get the amp, pay particular attention to the "Setting your level" section on Pg.13 of the manual. Getting the Gain set correctly is key to producing the best sound and the highest clean level from an Eden amp. It is an amazingly versatile amp.
 
Actually, the move to have them made in China was due to a period where USM (who owned Eden at the time) had moved the manufacturing facility for Eden gear and that facility was putting out a lot of dead on arrival amps. New to Eden techs weren't doing everything right and their quality control in the new spot was terrible. Eden had been making their Nemesis amps in China for over a decade at this point and so they decided to have that factory in China also manufacture their top-of-the-line amps too, since they were already used to working on Eden amps.

That immediately solved the defectives problem and the "made in China" amps have been super reliable. That doesn't mean you shouldn't have it checked out, but odds are it's a great amp. Odds are you can have those broken plastic jacks replaced and get the amp checked for 1-hour of tech time.

Unlike the WT800A versions that were the original version of the WT800, the WT800C will handle a 2Ω load per channel producing 550-watts rms per channel and it can bridge down to 4Ω with 1100-watts rms of power. It's always easy to spot a WT800C because they are the only WT800 amps that that have "the porch light", which is a Backlit Logo on the front. The porch light comes on when you power it up and goes off when you power it down. It's the only WT series amp that has that. My Terra Nova class D amp (TN226) also has the porch light, but that WT800C is the only one of the WT series that has one.

It's great amp!

If you get this amp and you need an owners manual for it let me know and I can attach one in pdf form for you. Also, if you get the amp, pay particular attention to the "Setting your level" section on Pg.13 of the manual. Getting the Gain set correctly is key to producing the best sound and the highest clean level from an Eden amp. It is an amazingly versatile amp.

My mid-2000s Nemesis NA320 is one of the best sounding amps I've ever owned. I gigged it almost exclusively for about 7-8 years and it's still going strong, though it doesn't get much use these days. I fired it up recently and it's still humming. Never one issue. Same for my WTX-500.
 
I’m an Eden user from way back in the day. Thanks you for the clarification. I assume this is a unit produced when Marshall had purchased Eden. Either way, picking it up next week ( hopefully , unless the seller vanishes) . Fingers crossed, but I shall proceed with the buy.

I’ve opted to buy this as a solution to a (2) 4 ohm cab config. I have no desire to BiAmp the cabs. From what I gather, I can run this as a dual mono config and have full range go to both cabs. Is that correct? Or am I stuck biAmp’ing and splitting the freq center?
Actually the way it worked was that David Nordschow (aka: David Eden) founded Eden in 1976. He sold it to USM in 2001 but stayed on to run the company. In 2009 David left Eden to start his new company DNA (David Nordschow Amplification). Marshall bought Eden on the evening of the last day of 2011 (Dec. 31, 2011). Marshall sold Eden to Gear4Music.com on March 10, 2021 but retained the manufacturing rights to it.

Gear4Music sold the heck out of Eden gear that first year but it was typically taking 6 to 9-months to get replenishment of their original stock. Then replenishment seemed to disappear entirely just about the time that Gear4Music built and finally put online a new "Eden" website. That website has since disappeared and I haven't seen anything new arriving at Gear4Music.com for the last two years. There's always the possibility that it might make a comeback, but I wouldn't hold my breath. In the meantime there's a lot of Eden gear around at really good prices because their WT series were all class AB amps weighing a lot more than the class D amps.
 
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All wonderful news. Still curious, can this head be used as a dual mono NON biamp, full range to both cabs config? I went over the whole manual and only noticed the IN ALL CAPS warnings several times in the manual to NOT BIAMP AND BRIDGE at the same time. (Both activated = Very bad.) But there was nothing regarding dual mono non biamp functionality.

I currently have a Genz Benz Shuttlemax 12.0 that has 2 separate ( but blendable ) 600W amps @ 4 Ohm. I’m going to A/B it against the WT800C and decide which will be my #1. I used a Streamliner 900 for almost a decade successfully, but when my rig changed to (2) 4ohm cabs, I could no longer use the Streamliner.

So, the question remains…..can this WT do (2) 4 Ohm cabs thru the separate internal amps without BIAmp’ing?
 
Also, if you get the amp, pay particular attention to the "Setting your level" section on Pg.13 of the manual. Getting the Gain set correctly is key to producing the best sound and the highest clean level from an Eden amp. It is an amazingly versatile amp.
+1000000000 on this! That gain setting tripped me up at first, but thanks to @Rip Van Dan for help with that as well.
 
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I’m an Eden user from way back in the day. Thanks you for the clarification. I assume this is a unit produced when Marshall had purchased Eden. Either way, picking it up next week ( hopefully , unless the seller vanishes) . Fingers crossed, but I shall proceed with the buy.

I’ve opted to buy this as a solution to a (2) 4 ohm cab config. I have no desire to BiAmp the cabs. From what I gather, I can run this as a dual mono config and have full range go to both cabs. Is that correct? Or am I stuck biAmp’ing and splitting the freq center?
Yeah just about nobody bi-amps anymore because modern cabs are full-frequency and it's a real waste of woofer(s) to run the highs into a cab with a tweeter. That tweeter does the major amount of the work.

The two modes for an Eden dual-powerblock amp are what we call "dual mono". In that mode you plug one cab into one side and another cab into the other side. That sends full frequencies to each power section. And, since the power sections are discrete, what you plug into one side has no influence on the ohms load in the other channel. You can run anything from just an 8Ω cab in each channel to as much as a 2Ω stack (four 8Ω cabs=2Ω load). It will put out 550-watts into each channel if you're running a 2Ω load in each.

However since you're talking two 4Ω cabs, with this WT800C, you can plug one into each side of the amp and get up to 400 watts from each channel. If you have a cab that will handle as much as 1100-watts, you can plug one of your 4Ω cabs into the bridged output and the amp can send it all 1100-watts if you need it. It probably makes more sense though to plug one cab into each side as that will send 440-watts into each channel with a 4Ω load in each channel.

Be aware that you need to turn the amp off and wait for the lights to all go out before changing modes from Dual Mono to Bridged. The button to do that is actually recessed below the face plate slightly so you don't accidentally push it in. I use a Pen or a paperclip to change the modes on my WT500/800 (was upgraded to 800-watts bridged from 500-watts bridged). Mine only bridges into 8Ω, so I have 8Ω cabs. Also always check to make sure you don't have the bi-amp button depressed before you put it into bridged mode. If you do, it will sound terrible and can really damage the amp.

If you run two different cabs with one in each side, the "Balance" knob on the front will allow you to mix the sounds together as you desire by sending more power to one side than the other. I did that with my WT500/800 for 5-years when I ran a 410+115 stack. The 115 was really boomy and by turning that balance know a few clicks toward the 410, it tamed that boomy mud without having to cut the Bass EQ. If I wanted more of the 115 sound, I could turn it towards the 115 a few clicks instead of towards the 410 (I NEVER would do that).

When running in bridged mode, make sure the balance knob is either straight up (ideal) or slightly to the left of 12 o'clock. Reason for that is that the right side is bridged over to the left side to combine for the full bridged power and if you turn the balance knob to the right, you won't get as many watts delivered to the cab and thus less sound. If you turn that balance knob all the way to the right, you won't get any sound at all when in bridged mode.

I've gone ahead and attached two files for you. The first one is the User Manual for the WT800B and the second file is the WT800C one-page addendum. Both amps came out in 2005 and basically have the same features, so they just added an addendum for the WT800C with its differences from the WT800B
 

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Always wanted an Eden and it finally happened! I saw this WT800A on Facebook Marketplace last week. Owner said it hummed after being played for no more than an hour. He assumed it needed to be repaired so I offered him $150 for the amp and it's now mine! I plugged this in and played it for about 4 hours, no hum. Such an awesome sounding amp!

I looked online and could not find the original manual. Anyone know where to get a PDF copy?

Also...looking for some guidance from all you Eden players. What should I look out for/have checked out to maximize the life of the amp? Like I said...never owned one before. And before you ask, yes, it sounds amazing through the GK NEO cabinet!
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Always wanted an Eden and it finally happened! I saw this WT800A on Facebook Marketplace last week. Owner said it hummed after being played for no more than an hour. He assumed it needed to be repaired so I offered him $150 for the amp and it's now mine! I plugged this in and played it for about 4 hours, no hum. Such an awesome sounding amp!

I looked online and could not find the original manual. Anyone know where to get a PDF copy?

Also...looking for some guidance from all you Eden players. What should I look out for/have checked out to maximize the life of the amp? Like I said...never owned one before. And before you ask, yes, it sounds amazing through the GK NEO cabinet!View attachment 7173027
Man, that's the steal of all time!! I've attached a pdf version of the User's Manual for you. I was one of the active moderators on the Eden Forum and when I saw the manuals that Marshall was replacing them with, I started downloading all of the ones we had on the Eden site. I didn't get all of them but I do have the vast majority of them.

Notice that there is just one manual for the WT800, WT600, and WT500. That's because the major differences between them was the power supply. The power sections are the same but the power supplies are different. Also the WT500 does not have the bi-amp circuits that the WT600 and WT800 do. I have a WT500/800 which is a WT500 that has had the power supply upgraded to the same as the WT800A (400-watts rms into 4Ω per channel or 800-watts rms into 8Ω bridged).

One thing I will caution you about up front is do not change the amp from bridged mode to dual-mono or bi-amp mode while the amp is powered up. Turn it off and wait for all the lights to go out before changing the mode of operation either way. The mode switch is recessed so you don't accidentally change it while playing, so a paper clip or point of a pen can be used to change modes. The on-off switch light will go right off immediately because that's the AC current coming into the amp. Like most class AB amps, the AC current is converted to DC current before it goes throughout the rest of the amp, and that's what powers the rest of the lights you see. The DC current takes a few seconds to bleed off and it powers the rest of the lights on the amp. So just wait for all the lights to go out before swapping back and forth from bridged to dual-mono mode.

In the attached manual, pay particular attention to page 5's instructions on setting your Level and setting your EQ. Setting the Gain level as described in that section will send the cleanest and most powerful signal to the power section to amplify. Set the level first following the instructions so you have a good baseline before you play with the EQ. After you do that a few times, you will be able to hear when you are in the "sweet spot".

The EQ section is extremely versatile. The Bass EQ is a shelving control set at 30Hz and will control all the frequencies below it. The Treble EQ is also a shelving control with its knee at about 2KHz to 2.2KHz, controlling all the rest of the frequencies above that. In between those two controls, you then have three semi-parametric (SP) EQ sets with overlapping frequencies on each of the controls. you can address from 30Hz up to 12KHz with these SP controls. I've found that very handy because I always boost the low-mids at 250Hz with my passive Jazz Bass. I can access that frequency at either the upper end of the first set of SP controls or at the lower end of the middle set. If I have a boomy room and I isolate the offending frequency on that first set of SP controls to cut it, I can still address that slight boost (typically to 1:30) in my low-mids at 250Hz in the second set of SP controls.

Each of those SP sets controls a full octave's range of frequencies to cover every frequency from the Low B through your highest note on the G string. Be very careful when boosting or cutting with the EQ controls. They will boost or cut the designated frequency by 15db and the controls are very sensitive. Only make one EQ adjustment at a time and be aware that a 2-click adjustment will make a noticeable difference in your sound.

Hope that helps. If you have any questions you can post them on this thread. Both Armin (@Bassmann1968) and I check in on this thread. I am the "wordy" one. Armin is more succinct, plus he was the electronics guru on the Eden Forum and he can get into the weeds with you about values of particular components inside the amp if need be. Basically I can tell you what the amp does, while Armin can also tell you "why" it does that.

Congrats on your purchase, and Enjoy!!
 

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