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Eminence Kappalite 3015

Blues Cat,

So you've seen all the drivers in question, in real life? Too bad then. Most of the stock B&C drivers don't have a response curve or T-S that is much like the OEM Ems that Carvin was formerly using. And those Em/Carvins actually worked pretty good in a great majority of their boxes and tunings. Hopefully they've gotten B&C to deliver something similar.
 
Eminence gets their stuff from China, technically..
Eminence has a factory in China that manufactures drivers for the far East OEM market only. All Eminence drivers sold in the US are made in the US.
here's a photo of the NE15-8

i've got one in a cab already,, sounds very good
That's definitely a stamped steel frame and a minimal heat sink. They may sound fine, but I'd be concerned putting more than 150 watts into them for fear of overheating the magnet.
 
Carvin sent me out the Theile specs today, on the 15's and the 18. the thing that gets me is the 15's have an x-max of 3, and the 18 is 5.4. Seems whimpy. WIN-ISD calls for 3.35 cuft with a fb of 45hz, f3 -3db at 46 hz. Thats with the old WIN-ISD. I'm sticking with Eminence. Wish Carvin would have, being one of the last US companies and all. I still like to buy US when I can.
 
...basically the same question as the above post...

...is it because for the Kappa Lite 3015LF you won't get maximum excursion without 200 watts per speaker?...and only when you can drive the speaker to maximum excursion are you getting all it's capable of?...or is it something else entirely?...

...whether it's the Xmax or something(s) else, is there a formula (or general rule of thumb) that yields the minimum (or at least ballpark) wattage needed for the 3015LF (or any specific speaker) to be utilized to its full potential?...
 
Carvin sent me out the Theile specs today, on the 15's and the 18. the thing that gets me is the 15's have an x-max of 3, and the 18 is 5.4. Seems whimpy. WIN-ISD calls for 3.35 cuft with a fb of 45hz, f3 -3db at 46 hz. Thats with the old WIN-ISD. I'm sticking with Eminence. Wish Carvin would have, being one of the last US companies and all. I still like to buy US when I can.

Are these current T-S for the neos? Not rewarmed old stuff? If so, could you PM me?
 
What is the downside of only using a 200 watt amp to drive the 3015? regarding getting sufficient output from the speaker?

Just skimming, but probably all he was saying is that when you buy a 3015 or 3015LF you've bought a lot of speaker and when you have more wattage that becomes especially apparent. They work just as well with less wattage. In fact they also have some nice qualities some of the cheaper EMs don't have, so even with low-watt applications I still might choose these over other Em neos. They certainly also allow room for anyone's later power amps and heads to be total powerbeasts without having to upgrade the speakers.
 
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Seems whimpy.

That's sadly the case with most OEM stuff from any company. They bulk purchase at low cost. Doesn't seem to matter much if they are an expensive brand or a cheap one, but at least with some brands the savings are reflected in the final price and thus leaves some wallet room for retrofits.

Really, if one could just have good design and premium drivers in one package, it wouldn't take long for all the older and budget drivers to have no home at all. :bawl:
 
What is the downside of only using a 200 watt amp to drive the 3015? regarding getting sufficient output from the speaker?
The entire benefit to the 3015 is the ability to run to 300 watts or so; that of the 3015LF to go to over 400. If you don't have the power on tap to make use of those capabilities then the difference you paid between one of those and a Deltalite II 2515 is money not well spent.
600 watts dude!!!!
3mm xmax, dude, means the driver won't take more than 100 watts before farting out. Unfortunately that's a fact not highlighted in the ad copy for either the raw drivers or the boxes sold with them inside.
 
The entire benefit to the 3015 is the ability to run to 300 watts or so; that of the 3015LF to go to over 400. If you don't have the power on tap to make use of those capabilities then the difference you paid between one of those and a Deltalite II 2515 is money not well spent.QUOTE]


Aren't both both versions of the 3015 rated at the same power handling (450 watts).
 
The entire benefit to the 3015 is the ability to run to 300 watts or so; that of the 3015LF to go to over 400. If you don't have the power on tap to make use of those capabilities then the difference you paid between one of those and a Deltalite II 2515 is money not well spent.QUOTE]


Aren't both both versions of the 3015 rated at the same power handling (450 watts).

The 450 watts is only a thermal rating before melting the voice coil.

The figures Bill is talking about is real world useable wattage levels before speaker fart out.
 
The entire benefit to the 3015 is the ability to run to 300 watts or so; that of the 3015LF to go to over 400. If you don't have the power on tap to make use of those capabilities then the difference you paid between one of those and a Deltalite II 2515 is money not well spent.
3mm xmax, dude, means the driver won't take more than 100 watts before farting out. Unfortunately that's a fact not highlighted in the ad copy for either the raw drivers or the boxes sold with them inside.

Yeah, sorry, sarcasm doesn't transfer on the internets I guess :)
 
...and how is that level determined (for this or any other driver)?...
Displacement limited power handling is defined by the driver's cone displacement at xmax, T/S spec Vd. Where electric bass is concerned it's one of the more critical specs, which of course means that not a single speaker cab manufacturer provides it. They all provide Pe (thermal power) ratings, but Pe has little real world significance.
 
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Displacement limited power handling is defined by the driver's cone displacement at xmax, T/S spec Vd. Where electric bass is concerned it's one of the more critical specs, which of course means that not a single speaker cab manufacturer provides it. They all provide Pe (thermal power) ratings, but Pe has little real world significance.
...so for the 3015LF, did you discover the spec yourself by getting the driver & testing until you arrived at the ballpark needed wattage?...I guess what I'm getting at is, does an average joe have much or any chance of determining ballpark minimum needed watts for driving a speaker or set of speakers enough to get optimum performance from them? ...
 
You can get this, provided you have the T/S parameters Bill mentions, through calculations. WinISD Pro Alpha will do it for you and show the Max SPL and Max Power plots (which Bill also mentioned earlier).

Cheers,
Liam
 
I guess what I'm getting at is, does an average joe have much or any chance of determining ballpark minimum needed watts for driving a speaker or set of speakers enough to get optimum performance from them? ...

there's no such thing as minimum watts or "underpowering" a speaker
 
I guess what I'm getting at is, does an average joe have much or any chance of determining ballpark minimum needed watts for driving a speaker or set of speakers enough to get optimum performance from them? ...

there's no such thing as minimum watts or "underpowering" a speaker
...please kindly read the thread...thank you...