Eminence Kappalite 3015

[4Mal]

The 3015 sweems to be pretty forgiving and it doesn't want a huge cabinet. I run mine is a 'generic' slot port cab, about 2 cu ft.

At least one fellow here run's the 3015 in his Mesa RR 1x15 cab's. Those cab's are based on the EV TL-606 design which is gross internal volume of 3.2 cu ft. Reportedly they sound great... that cab was designed for the EV 15B so one way of thiking about it is that if hte EV sounds good in there, the 3015 probably will too...

Ideally I believe it wants between 2.2 and 2.4 cu ft.

I tried the 3015 in a Bag End S15-D which is a little under 2 cu ft. It was noticably mid-rangy in there. I pulled it out after the novelty wore off ... which didn't take all that long.

A couple of thoughts
1. An old Peavey and some stuffing - or not ...

2. Get a local carpenter to build you a TL 606 - the design is easy to come by

3. An empty 1x15 from the Madison (ex-Legion Sound) guys and stuff it or not ...

4. Take the Carvin PA cab approach...

 

[Chef]

the tl606 plans are on the interweb
the fearful design here at tb is s'posed to work goog

i have them in an old mesa diesel cab: works great.

 

[jnewmark]

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[Bassman62]

Sorry, I should have phrased that differently. Are there any 1x15 cabs that would take a 3015 replacement of the existing 15?

many cabs wil take the 3015, retuning the ports may be needed to get the optimum out of the speaker though.

 

[GlennW]

Eminence has specs for cabs on their site.

 

[Mystic Michael]

I haven't read through the entire thread to find this info, but...

To those of you who can provide an educated guess (or an authoritative answer), approximately how much power would be recommended to yield optimum low-frequency response (maximum Xmax) for a 3015LF, loaded into a three-way cab with 8" mid-driver and a tweeter, with dimensions approximately 30"H x 20"W x 18"D?

I'm seriously considering having Don @ Low Down Sound build me a couple of custom cabs of this type. I could use 'em with either a Hartke LH1000 head bridged @ 1100 watts @ 4 ohms (550 watts per cab @ 8 ohms each), or I could use 'em with a Carvin B1500 head @ either 1250 watts @ 4 ohms (625 watts per cab @ 8 ohms each), or 1900 watts @ 2 ohms (950 watts per cab @ 4 ohms each).

I suppose this boils down to an ohmage question: Would 550 watts per cab be enough to obtain maximum performance from them? Or would it really be better to have 950 watts available for each cab?

MM

 

[rpsands]

You'd want about 3-400 watts and so yes 550 should be fine.

They are displacement limited at around 450 in a cab that size I *believe*.

 

[jnewmark]

I haven't read through the entire thread to find this info, but...

To those of you who can provide an educated guess (or an authoritative answer), approximately how much power would be recommended to yield optimum low-frequency response (maximum Xmax) for a 3015LF, loaded into a three-way cab with 8" mid-driver and a tweeter, with dimensions approximately 30"H x 20"W x 18"D?

I'm seriously considering having Don @ Low Down Sound build me a couple of custom cabs of this type. I could use 'em with either a Hartke LH1000 head bridged @ 1100 watts @ 4 ohms (550 watts per cab @ 8 ohms each), or I could use 'em with a Carvin B1500 head @ either 1250 watts @ 4 ohms (625 watts per cab @ 8 ohms each), or 1900 watts @ 2 ohms (950 watts per cab @ 4 ohms each).

I suppose this boils down to an ohmage question: Would 550 watts per cab be enough to obtain maximum performance from them? Or would it really be better to have 950 watts available for each cab?

MM

Have you looked at the Carvin LS1503? Many are using this cab with the 3015LF.

 

[Mystic Michael]

Have you looked at the Carvin LS1503? Many are using this cab with the 3015LF.

I've considered it. Am leaning more toward a custom bass cab instead...

MM

 

[greenboy]

Have you looked at the Carvin LS1503? Many are using this cab with the 3015LF.

In retrospect, for most I'd reccomend the 3015 for the LS1503 - and if one actually wants more LF output to also go to a bigger box like the fEarful 15/6. Seems like enough people got a later Carvin build revision that used a poly cup instead of the initial baltic birch midrange chamber which provided more bracing, and at least a couple people with the latter build instead then remarked on vibration/rattling they had to solve.

 

[Chef]

from what I've read in the fearful thread, greenboy's cab would suit your needs really well.

 

[Mystic Michael]

from what I've read in the fearful thread, greenboy's cab would suit your needs really well.

That may very well be, Chef. But I'll tell ya what I've really got in mind: a pair of three-way 1x12 cabs for small to mid-sized gigs, and a pair of three-way 1x15 cabs for big gigs - with all three drivers in each cab positioned in a vertical array.

Some months ago, I was reading through one of the cabs threads, when I noticed a recommendation from Bill about the optimum vertical array configuration for a three-way cab: namely with the subwoofer/woofer at the bottom, the mid-driver centered just above it, and the tweeter centered just above the mid-driver, near the top. For a second cab on top of that (or the top half of the same cab), the drivers would be configured in mirror image to the bottom array - like this:

Woofer
Mid-range
Tweeter
*******
Tweeter
Mid-range
Woofer

It makes sense to me - so much that I'd like to try it. Now I'm by no means an audio engineer, so whatever I dream up, I would still need to run it by a pro (or two), to make sure it's viable and will do what I want it to do. But I've come up with some approximate dimensions that I suspect could really work for each of these two designs:

12"W - 6.5"M - 2"T = 18"W x 24"H x 18"D
15"W - 8" M - 2"T = 20"W x30"H x 18"D

Each driver would be in its own compartment. And I'd be open to suggestions on specific makes & models of drivers - but certainly considering the 3012LF and 3015LF for the woofers/subwoofers.

MM

 

[greenboy]

Covered in probably the first page or three of the first fEarful thread. Even shown in some quickie image.

 

[Mystic Michael]

Covered in probably the first page or three of the first fEarful thread. Even shown in some quickie image.

So I guess I'm on the right track then. Cool...

MM

 

[riker1384]

Has anyone here thought about putting one of these in an Ampeg B-3158? It's a discontinued combo that has a biamped 15 and 8, no tweeter. It has a tall cabinet that tilts back and rolls. I don't know what the air volume inside is, but the exterior volume of the whole combo is about 5.8 cubic feet, so perhaps the cab is 4 or so net?

I was thinking it might be nice to find one that's busted or something, remove the whole amp section, replace the woofer with the 3015LF, and alter the porting as needed. The combo weighs 84 pounds, so maybe the mods would get it down to 65 or so. I like the idea of a vertical cab that will roll, and I could lift comfortably and put across the back seat of a compact car.

The stock 8 is rated at 50 watts, so I don't know if that would be adequate if the woofer was going to get its full power.

 

[babebambi]

I'm seriously considering having Don @ Low Down Sound build me a couple of custom cabs of this type. ... or I could use 'em with a Carvin B1500 head @ either
1250 watts @ 4 ohms (625 watts per cab @ 8 ohms each), or
1900 watts @ 2 ohms (950 watts per cab @ 4 ohms each).

If using the b1500, I think its a good idea to stick with 8ohm cab.
1250 watts @ 4 ohms (625 watts per cab @ 8 ohms each)
1500 watts @ 2.6 ohms (500 watts per cab @ 8 ohms each)

or go crazy
1900 watts @ 2 ohms (425 watts per cab @ 8 ohms each).

I remember reading about a TBer with such a Monster rig ...
edit: sorry I was thinking about the 4 x 210 Acme rig

 

[Bassman62]

I've considered it. Am leaning more toward a custom bass cab instead...

MM

It's not rocket science to build and set up a cab, regarding all the do this and do that it's a bit like the pickiness of Hi-Fi buffs; you set up in a different place every gig with all types of differing conditions regarding shape, size and material. Sound lab conditions don't apply in a pub/bar/club.
Most decent wood yards will cut your 8' x 4' board to very close measurements, tuning ports 4" plastic drain pipe, handles wheels and other fittings are all readily available.

 

[NorCal Dog]

true,, altho

everybody on here isn't a norm abrahms wannbe with a skillsaw & way too much time on their hands

Dr Bass is in business to build what you need MM, using the proper joinery to build a cab that will meet industry standards

( i'm a cabinet maker by trade, & most if not all of the garage built cabs i've seen here are very poorly joined, & would be termed a hack job at best )

edit, rabbit & dado 'yall rabbit & dado, not woodscrews

 

[Mystic Michael]

If using the b1500, I think its a good idea to stick with 8ohm cab.

I agree. Eight ohms it is. Though two of those 1x15 cabs would probably be plenty for my needs. And 625 watts per cab sounds just about ideal...

Dr Bass is in business to build what you need MM, using the proper joinery to build a cab that will meet industry standards

Yep, I have no doubt The Doctor could do the job. No way would I try to build the cabs myself though. I know my limitations...

MM

 

[Bassman62]

true,, altho

everybody on here isn't a norm abrahms wannbe with a skillsaw & way too much time on their hands

Dr Bass is in business to build what you need MM, using the proper joinery to build a cab that will meet industry standards

( i'm a cabinet maker by trade, & most if not all of the garage built cabs i've seen here are very poorly joined, & would be termed a hack job at best )

edit, rabbit & dado 'yall rabbit & dado, not woodscrews

You don't has to posess a high level of joinery skills to build a loudspeaker cabinet, I learnt basic skills in woodworking lessons at school some 53 years ago, most of it is common sense, the hardest job initialy is getting the cosmetic appearence up to a high standard
Cabs that I built 30 years ago are still doing the rounds; and there is nothing "hack" about this matching Orange cab I built for a customer at a fraction of the factory price.