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fEARful™ Part Eleven (11)

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Didn't say you did.

By the way, how's the 210 build going? I haven't seen that thread lately. Did you ever get that done?

Sorry to think it was meant that way...

My comment about the slotted ports was because in the FAQ it is mentioned that slotted ports create less noise which is just not true. So, I was not commenting on the fEarful but on the statement in the FAQ.

The 210 is waiting in the shed:crying:
I'm busy now with our walk-in-closet :smug:
Once all the clothes are removed from my hobbyroom I can start measuring and design the x-over.
 
Sorry to think it was meant that way...

My comment about the slotted ports was because in the FAQ it is mentioned that slotted ports create less noise which is just not true. So, I was not commenting on the fEarful but on the statement in the FAQ.

The 210 is waiting in the shed:crying:
I'm busy now with our walk-in-closet :smug:
Once all the clothes are removed from my hobbyroom I can start measuring and design the x-over.

LOL...yeah that's the problem with being a handy woodworker...being handy for all the other home projects too. ;)

With regards to the fEARFul, Greenboy was not making a declaration about round vs. slot ports in general...only with regards to the fEARful design. Nothing wrong with round ports at all and they certainly don't make more noise because they're the "wrong" shape. They are only the wrong shape for this design. In order to accommodate round ports the whole cab itself would have to have been redesigned...including size and bracing.

Again, many take things out of the fEARful design context when reading things pertaining to fEARfuls and attempt to find fault with the statements as applied to other designs. Many will even say some design feature of a fEARful is unimportant, simply because it is unimportant in another cab design.

Every little thing has been integrated into what has become the fEARful. Take a statement regarding any one single design component out of context as it was intended in the fEARful and it simply cannot be applied to other designs in general and have any real meaning.
 
For my 210 design I use round ports. A shelved port would have been to slim. I could have used a shelved port with a larger height but then the lenght would be to long and a standing wave would occur(inside of the port) in the passband of the 10's.
I also choose the (inner) dimension of the cab and the crossoverpoint to the midrange speaker in such a way that there would never be a standing wave inside the cab that could colour the sound. This way I also do not need to "stuff" the cabinet for the ten's which gives me better efficiency (stuffing draws energy).
These are some of the things I implemented into my design. If I didn't it would not become a superior 210.
 
For my 210 design I use round ports. A shelved port would have been to slim. I could have used a shelved port with a larger height but then the lenght would be to long and a standing wave would occur(inside of the port) in the passband of the 10's.
I also choose the (inner) dimension of the cab and the crossoverpoint to the midrange speaker in such a way that there would never be a standing wave inside the cab that could colour the sound. This way I also do not need to "stuff" the cabinet for the ten's which gives me better efficiency (stuffing draws energy).
These are some of the things I implemented into my design. If I didn't it would not become a superior 210.

And thus my point about design features being cab specific. If you were to make your plans available and someone asked why you didn't use a shelf port, you may very well have answered saying that a shelf port would cause standing waves.

Then...someone might come along and call you out, saying you are wrong and that shelf ports do not cause standing waves. Which, obviously you understand, but the person reading that may take it out of the context of your design.

Which is what happens here all to frequently with regards to fEARfuls. Perhaps answers could be better worded, but I know that greenboy had been deluged with so many questions over the years (which still continue) that to respond so carefully so as to never be misunderstood would have been a task too daunting.

Of course that's just an inherent issue with message boards...words being taken out of context and a general overriding need to be right. We're all guilty of that.

Hope to see your thread start up again on your 210 build.
 
I'm starting to mull over adding a 15sub to my 15/6. I have read greenboy's page on modularity, but I still have some questions. To those that have a 12/6 or 15/6 stacked on the corresponding sub, do you have problems with the top cab "walking"? Are the rubber feet sufficient?
 
I'm starting to mull over adding a 15sub to my 15/6. I have read greenboy's page on modularity, but I still have some questions. To those that have a 12/6 or 15/6 stacked on the corresponding sub, do you have problems with the top cab "walking"? Are the rubber feet sufficient?

No problems whatsoever. Not only that, but most of the time I flip my 15/6 upside down and it still doesn't walk.
 
I'm starting to mull over adding a 15sub to my 15/6. I have read greenboy's page on modularity, but I still have some questions. To those that have a 12/6 or 15/6 stacked on the corresponding sub, do you have problems with the top cab "walking"? Are the rubber feet sufficient?

I don't think they will walk but.......
My 12/sub is not ready yet, but I plan on latching the cabs together similar to Sundogues cab & head. Although I'm more concerned about rolling them together as my 12/sub will have tiltback wheels. I'll post in a few weeks when I get everything together.
 
A question for Greenboy (or surrogates): Why is the gap between the grille (1.125" standoff depth) and the speaker baffle as large as it is? The speaker edge is not that thick. Is it because of diffraction or what? And many thanks Greenboy --- I am the beneficiary of your labors.
 
A question for Greenboy (or surrogates): Why is the gap between the grille (1.125" standoff depth) and the speaker baffle as large as it is? The speaker edge is not that thick. Is it because of diffraction or what? And many thanks Greenboy --- I am the beneficiary of your labors.

The speaker edge isn't that thick, but these speakers have a lot of travel...even early on there was some concern that the speaker could hit the inside of the grill.
 
A question for Greenboy (or surrogates): Why is the gap between the grille (1.125" standoff depth) and the speaker baffle as large as it is? The speaker edge is not that thick. Is it because of diffraction or what? And many thanks Greenboy --- I am a beneficiary of your labors (15/6 and now a 12/6 in the works). I can hear my G-string notes much better now, not to mention everything else. Don't have to be as loud to be heard.
 
I don't think it travels that far.

It depends upon how much gasketting material you have between your driver and the baffle, etc. I don't recall a great deal of space between the face of the rim of the driver and the grill now that I think about it. When I play tonight, I'll see if I can gauge the actual real-life space between the grill and the face of the edge.
 
I have a Carvin BX500 and a newly acquired Schroeder 1210L. Would a fEARful 12/6 be ok to mix with the Schroeder?

Yeah, it would be OK. But if you just used the fEARful 12/6 alone it would be even better. Mixing a fEARful with anything other than another matching fEARful (either a sub or a reverse baffle of the same kind) is pointless.

The purpose of the fEARfuls are great low end and the ultimate in clarity. Mixing one with something else will take the clarity away.
 
Alright, so the corners are NOT supposed to interlock? I mean, the front two would, but the subs are deeper, so the back two won't lock. Am I correct here?

You are correct. my front two corners to mesh pretty solidly, and are plenty to keep the cab in place. It's a fairly heavy box at 50-ish pounds, so it hasn't moved yet, even the other night when I was screamin' loud and pushing hefty amounts of low end. No walking at all.
 
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