fEARful™ Part Eleven (11)

[BurningSkies]

Thanks, BurningSkies!

I had a feeling that you would be the one to answer my query...

Hey Ron,

Are you using Leland's Crossover/Lpad components only or are you using his printed circuit boards as well?

If you're using his boards too, I may have spoken too soon. The switch goes in between the high pass for the mid and the L-Pad for the mid. when I did mine, I did the mid and L-pad as separate units, so that I could easily snip the connections between the L-pad and High pass to add the switch. I don't know that I've seen Leland's layout for the boards on the 12/6 to know if its he's made the contingency as easy as that or not.

I think the 15/6 boards I've seen have the lpad and high pass on the same board and it may take a bit more work to install a switch.

Of course, the offshoot of this is that you could take the resistors and do them on a different board anyway and make a switch insert easy later on.

 

[RaniBrandt]

Hey Ron,

Are you using Leland's Crossover/Lpad components only or are you using his printed circuit boards as well?

I am using his boards as well. I just sent Leland an email to see what he suggests.

Thanks again!

Now, onto the fun stuff! Even more pics from my adventures in woodworking...

Yesterday's gluing & clamping--baffle & port shelf to one side. I love figuring out and making the one-off braces needed to square everything up properly:

Today's big glue-up--everything except top & back is now in place!:

Another angle:

And a close-up of the PL shmearing on the inside:

 

[melvn]

Great build Pics. To bad I just found a house that I like enough to shell out some cash for so it looks like i'll have to put this off for a few months. On the bright side, increas in jam space will be nice.

 

[PaleMelanesian]

I love your extensive use of scrap wood for clamping. Looks like you've glued a thing or two in the past.

 

[RaniBrandt]

I haven't done very much woodworking, really. I'm an artist and art teacher, though, so I guess I've always been into creative problem-solving!

 

[scottbass]

Hey, ronaldpbrandt - thanks for the photos! I see all those dovetails sticking up from the sides - - - doesn't that mean it's gonna take some serious flexing to get that top installed??? From the angles of the dove-fingers, it looks to me like the top can't be dropped on from above but must instead be slid into the fingers horizontally.

EDIT: Or is this just the parallax playing tricks on me? Are the doves really straight vertically and angled from outer surface of the side to inner surface of the side? Or are they angled from top to bottom and straight from the outer surface of the side to the inner surface of the side?

It's kinda like that darn staircase on one of my dorm room posters back in the day - was it really going up or down?

 

[1n3]

Hey, ronaldpbrandt - thanks for the photos! I see all those dovetails sticking up from the sides - - - doesn't that mean it's gonna take some serious flexing to get that top installed??? From the angles of the dove-fingers, it looks to me like the top can't be dropped on from above but must instead be slid into the fingers horizontally.

That's also how it looks to me. I've been digging the dovetail joints, just because. Hadn't noticed this little problem. Looks like ronaldpdbrandt may have another opportunity for "creative problem-solving".

Will be tuning in for further developments. Thanks for letting us watch.

 

[N. Kentucky Bass]

I just wrote to Eminence to learn when we can buy the Kappalite 3010LF, which was announced at NAMM. Here's the response:

We are not sure about the release of the 10" Kappalite series. Neodymium pricing is very volatile right now. The Chinese government is limiting quotas on mining and exports, which has caused a huge price increase.

 

[lelandcrooks]

If you're using his boards too, I may have spoken too soon. The switch goes in between the high pass for the mid and the L-Pad for the mid. when I did mine, I did the mid and L-pad as separate units, so that I could easily snip the connections between the L-pad and High pass to add the switch. I don't know that I've seen Leland's layout for the boards on the 12/6 to know if its he's made the contingency as easy as that or not.

Configuration of 12/6 nd board. 12/6nm is different.

 

[RaniBrandt]

Hey, ronaldpbrandt - thanks for the photos! I see all those dovetails sticking up from the sides - - - doesn't that mean it's gonna take some serious flexing to get that top installed??? From the angles of the dove-fingers, it looks to me like the top can't be dropped on from above but must instead be slid into the fingers horizontally.

I think you figured that out at about the same time I did. I guess I got a little ahead of myself trying to glue as many pieces as I could at once!

I ended up having to pry the baffle from one side (not easy to do--PL is some strong stuff!) to get the top in. There was a little splintering, but I should be able to re-glue everything back just fine. Besides, none of the ugly spots will show, once I put the grille stand-off in place.

Other good news: BurningSkies and Leland helped set me straight on the crossover/switch questions, so I should be good to go on that very soon. While waiting for the switch to come in, I'll try to get started on my soldering. More mishaps to come!

 

[BurningSkies]

Configuration of 12/6 nd board. 12/6nm is different.

Thanks Leland. Its not quite plug and play, but not tough either...from the look of things.

 

[90k]

Configuration of 12/6 nd board. 12/6nm is different.

I just got done my 126/1 and I am using this exact crossover. I dry fitted the back to test everything out before completion. Low volume of course. The cab is all I expected and more sounds sweet. Thanks Leeland for all your help. You are awesome Sir!

 

[90k]

I have a question for all/any the fEARful experts out there:

I'm building a 12/6 (without the HF horn) with the 6ND410 (as I may want to add a second 12/6 later), and I ordered my crossover parts from Leland Crooks. I thought it would be fun to put it together myself, forgetting that I have absolutely no experience assembling electronics! I guess that's how we learn, right?

Anyhoo, my question is this:

Do I need the DPDT switch, or is it just a bonus feature, more or less? Is there anyone out there who didn't install one, but wish they did? Or is there anyone who put it in, but never use it?

Thanks in advance for your help!

i've got the switch an I like it. If i want to use the cab with only the 12" speaker, I have that option. I can back off the lpad for the tweeter, shut of the mid. Its a win, win situation as I see it.haven't had the cab long enough to see how it deals with the heat though. That may by a question for the experts.

 

[Count Bassie]

Hey all,
I'm a carpenter, and my keyboardist needs a cab. He wants a 12/6 Cube with tweeter after doing a little reading and perusing, and I'm a good bit mystified about electronic stuff in general. The cab itself I'll be alright with!

I can go get a ready-made "Cheap-But-Good" x-over, although I'm not sure about how to combine drivers, x-over, etc. For instance:

Say I used the JBL high-freq driver with the Eminence Alpha-6A mid driver. Will the generic x-over work fine between these two? And for a 3-way cab there have to be 2 x-overs... more questions, you get where I'm driving here.

Is there a good 'training wheels' link/site for this kind of specific info, for "a-technical" noobs, like myself?

Pardon, and thanks for your patience!

 

[Sundogue]

Is there a good 'training wheels' link/site for this kind of specific info, for "a-technical" noobs, like myself?

Yes, there is...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[AaronHuff]

I've just ordered up one of ArtOfNoise's über-lightweight, foamcore/fiberglass 15/6/1's. I should have it up here in Montreal in a little under a month. I'm stoked!

I have one of these--a 12/6/1--on order, too. The wait time is pretty long (I ordered in early April), but it sounds like it'll be worth it. My back will appreciate how incredibly light these things are.

 

[::::BASSIST::::]

^ I got you beat as I ordered my composite 15/6 March 4th and I am still waiting. Should be ready any day though.

 

[::::BASSIST::::]

I have one of these--a 12/6/1--on order, too. The wait time is pretty long (I ordered in early April), but it sounds like it'll be worth it. My back will appreciate how incredibly light these things are.

By the way, how much did Robby say your composite 12/6 will weigh?

 

[dhomer]

Hey all,
I'm a carpenter, and my keyboardist needs a cab. He wants a 12/6 Cube with tweeter after doing a little reading and perusing, and I'm a good bit mystified about electronic stuff in general. The cab itself I'll be alright with!

I can go get a ready-made "Cheap-But-Good" x-over, although I'm not sure about how to combine drivers, x-over, etc. For instance:

Say I used the JBL high-freq driver with the Eminence Alpha-6A mid driver. Will the generic x-over work fine between these two? And for a 3-way cab there have to be 2 x-overs... more questions, you get where I'm driving here.

Is there a good 'training wheels' link/site for this kind of specific info, for "a-technical" noobs, like myself?

Pardon, and thanks for your patience!

The best advice I can give you is stick with the recommended hardware/drivers. They have been painstakingly designed to work well together, and you can't go wrong.. Leland at speakerhardware.com has made it too easy for folks to get everything they need for fEARful success.. and if you get the prebuilt crossovers, its as easy as connecting the dots..

 

[RaniBrandt]

Okay, here's a shot with the top in place. Today I glued down the back of the mid chamber and put one more layer of PL in all interior corners. Then I spray-glued in the dampening poly-fill.

I also drilled a hole in the jack plate and installed the DPDT switch into it.

I'll be going camping for the next week and a half, so no updates for a bit!