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fEARful Part Eleven (11)
- Thread starter Kelly Lee
- Start date
- Status
I'm about to start wiring my my 15/6/1 fEarful and looking for some pointers.
These are complete newb questions so I apologize in advance for my idiocy.
First, what wire do y'all typically use internally? I've heard #14 or #16 gauge (of course), but is it best to use the multi-stranded stuff (typical speaker wire), or the single stranded wire (wire that has more rigidity)?
Lastly, how do y'all typically split a wire. For instance, using Leland's pre-built crossovers, it looks like a need to split the + and - input signals each three ways (for each of the crossovers). Do I just use those twist type of connectors to do this?
These are complete newb questions so I apologize in advance for my idiocy.
First, what wire do y'all typically use internally? I've heard #14 or #16 gauge (of course), but is it best to use the multi-stranded stuff (typical speaker wire), or the single stranded wire (wire that has more rigidity)?
Lastly, how do y'all typically split a wire. For instance, using Leland's pre-built crossovers, it looks like a need to split the + and - input signals each three ways (for each of the crossovers). Do I just use those twist type of connectors to do this?
edwinhurwitz
Supporting Member
I used whatever speaker wire I had handy. I don't subscribe to the idea that you need special wire to move electrons. It needs to be sufficient to carry the current and have low resistance, but with the distances, 16 or 14 gauge is fine.
For splitting the signal, I jump rather than split. Just go from one place to the next. I don't trust twist connectors in cabs that get a lot of moving around, so I solder and shrink wrap.
HTH and have fun!
For wiring the preamp, solid core wire is alot easier to work with in the idea that you can bend it and holds shape. Lay everything out and set it up. Solder when ready.
As far as wiring the speakers to the preamp, the preamp to the input jacks, etc. I used 14 gauge radioshack cheapo speaker cable.
Anything that isn't so small as to hamper the electron flow is just fine. A bent coat hanger has been mentioned on audiophile forums as speaker cable of choice...
As far as wiring the speakers to the preamp, the preamp to the input jacks, etc. I used 14 gauge radioshack cheapo speaker cable.
Anything that isn't so small as to hamper the electron flow is just fine. A bent coat hanger has been mentioned on audiophile forums as speaker cable of choice...
Wait a minute... I had no idea you could do this!
I guess by jumping instead of splitting, them little electron boogers still find their way through?
So... if I'm using those fast-on type of clips as connectors, I can simply have an "in" and a "jump" wire fed into each connector and it effectively does the same thing as splitting?
+1 for science!
edwinhurwitz
Supporting Member
Wait a minute... I had no idea you could do this!
I guess by jumping instead of splitting, them little electron boogers still find their way through?
So... if I'm using those fast-on type of clips as connectors, I can simply have an "in" and a "jump" wire fed into each connector and it effectively does the same thing as splitting?
+1 for science!
That sounds about right. Electricity is fast. Something like 186,282 miles per second. Maybe a little slower. The individual electrons don't hardly move at all given that we are dealing with an AC circuit. They pretty much vibrate in place, moving maybe a thousandth of an inch. See Speed of electricity flow (speed of current.).
If electricity is moving near the speed of light, and the frequency is 60Hz, then the individual electrons would be moving 186,262/60 miles per second. Or 186,262 X 5280/60 feet per second. Which is 3104.4 miles per second, or 1,6391,056 feet per second-back and forth. Unless of course my math is wrong, in which case, never mind...........
edwinhurwitz
Supporting Member
Except that the wire is so packed with electrons that they can't move very far. Electrons aren't electricity but the medium through which electricity moves.
+1 on the E.Q.
Also, try getting it to ear level. Maybe tilting it back and point it at your head will get you the "punchiness" you're looking for.
Have you gone FOH and heard it out front? How does it sit in the mix? Seems to me with the clarity/low end that you describe, it would sitting in the mix very well.
I got more work done on my 12/6 in the last couple of days.
Glued side braces yesterday and added another coat of poly to the port area today (Note: The top piece looks warped, but it's just the fish-eye of the camera lens):
Glued mid side, mid bottom, and port shelf to baffle (Clamps in this photo are for the port shelf only--I had already done the other parts the day before):
Glued side braces yesterday and added another coat of poly to the port area today (Note: The top piece looks warped, but it's just the fish-eye of the camera lens):
Glued mid side, mid bottom, and port shelf to baffle (Clamps in this photo are for the port shelf only--I had already done the other parts the day before):
Yeah. Electrons don't move in a straight line, unimpeded. Nor do they travel near the speed of light; they have finite mass.
I really wish people would just pick up a physics 103 book for once in their life and stop guessing...
- Apr 3, 2003
- 35,515
- 19,945
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- Editor-in-Chief, Bass Gear Magazine
lelandcrooks
Commercial User
The board lugs are 3/16 crimpons. The blue plastic sleeve model will hold 2 16ga wires. Makes it easy to jumper from board to board. 16ga is more than adequate for internal wiring.
well not really. the electrons move but others come to take their place. The ATOMS don't move, but the electrons have to because they are the electrically charged particles.
a image is worth 1000 words
I have a question for all/any the fEARful experts out there:
I'm building a 12/6 (without the HF horn) with the 6ND410 (as I may want to add a second 12/6 later), and I ordered my crossover parts from Leland Crooks. I thought it would be fun to put it together myself, forgetting that I have absolutely no experience assembling electronics! I guess that's how we learn, right?
Anyhoo, my question is this:
Do I need the DPDT switch, or is it just a bonus feature, more or less? Is there anyone out there who didn't install one, but wish they did? Or is there anyone who put it in, but never use it?
Thanks in advance for your help!
I'm building a 12/6 (without the HF horn) with the 6ND410 (as I may want to add a second 12/6 later), and I ordered my crossover parts from Leland Crooks. I thought it would be fun to put it together myself, forgetting that I have absolutely no experience assembling electronics! I guess that's how we learn, right?
Anyhoo, my question is this:
Do I need the DPDT switch, or is it just a bonus feature, more or less? Is there anyone out there who didn't install one, but wish they did? Or is there anyone who put it in, but never use it?
Thanks in advance for your help!
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
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- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
ronaldpdbrandt said:
You don't need the switch right now if you're not sure if you're going to build another cab. It's a fairly easy retrofit if you do decide to do it later, and you wouldn't have to modify the boards or anything like that.
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