• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

fEARful™ Part Eleven (11)

Status
Not open for further replies.
#801
BurningSkies said:
Many places that have subs are using multiple subs in a variety of spacings which wreaks havoc on the lows...or depending on the club, my speakers are capable of cleaner louder lows than the washy mess of cheap underpowered subs.
Click to expand...
A common problem in club sound systems is that the full range outputs from the PA go to the x-over so everything with any low end content ends up in the subs. While there is low end content in vocals & guitar, they don't need subwoofer support. Ideally the subs should be fed a separate signal from either an aux or subgroup send so that only the things that NEED subwoofer support (kick, bass, *maybe some slight keys*) actually come out of the subs. That will clean up a lot of the muddiness and your stage sound won't be competing with all the other crap in the subs. Unfortunately it makes for a more complicated setup than a lot of club owners are willing to take on.

Invalid Link Removed
 
#802
cymatics said:
A high pass still won't solve the issue of your rig being out of phase with the front-of-house. A high pass filter with a steep enough cut that is set low enough to to remove any potentially problematic low frequency content from your stage sound will leave you sounding like you are playing through a bullhorn.

If this set of circumstances pops up enough to be an issue for you then get Invalid Link Removedif you use a DI or if your cabs are mic'ed, simply wire up a speaker cable with the conductors flipped at one end.
Click to expand...

I thought everybody knew about this. It's a problem with ANY bass rig, not just a fEarful.

It only takes a moment to check your phase whenever you plug into a DI. Fancy test gear (and/or a competent sound guy) aren't necessary- you can hear the difference from where you stand on stage.

A simple turnover cable is easy to make, and cheaper than the Shure adapter. Or you can upgrade to a good DI with a phase reverse switch in it, like the Radial JDI (sweet piece of gear, by the way).
 
#803
BurningSkies said:
More often than not, I've found that I have fewer problems with FOH sound with my fEARful than my old setup. I can be louder and the soundman is perfectly happy with the bass tone out front, using the PA to support my sound if needed, but in most cases, using the PA to bring the rest of the band up and around my sound.
Click to expand...

I'm between bands, but I filled in a few weeks ago. No sound check, just a basic level check.

9 originals, only 4 recorded, 4 rehearsals, 13 days.... that's another story.

I've never been so loud onstage. I was embarrassed because to me, it sounded like half bass, half band. The monitors where ok, there was actually a lot of bass on monitor stage left- My 1515/66 was stage right (1600w/ 840w).

POINT:

The soundman made a comment about how moderate my onstage level was, and how well he liked it :).
 
#804
Just started my 12/6 build on Tuesday! I'm using 1/2" Baltic birch, which I plan to finish naturally, with an oxblood tweed grille cloth. I have a small room to practice in, and it's also our office/study, so I want it to look almost like a vintage stereo component.

Here's the wood, with the first two cuts:
100_0878.jpg

And here's my "flat pack" after all cuts were done:
100_0881.jpg

:hyper::hyper:
 
#805
Plstrns said:
Talking price? I got 6 slide rails for each 1515/66 @ $8 each? I think they may have been more actually, but included hardware. Building by GB's instruction (everything from Leland except the wood, 18 sounds, grille, grille stand offs, caster screws, wiring, insulation, angle aluminum and foam tape) plus the rails, top back corner handles, and FC casters/ angle aluminum on the back rear. No horn, no crossover, and great prices on speakers my 1515/66's where +/- $900 per.
Click to expand...


where did you get the slide rails so cheaply???
 
#807
MAMMOTHvolume said:
Quick question, i've got a pair of cabs i made with 3015 drivers, wondering if it's worth making a headcase / midrange and tweeter box to go with them?

Would the lack of crossover on the tother cabs effect the midrange negatively etc?
Click to expand...

Are they 3015 (non LF) or the 3015LF? Two completely different speakers.

If they are the 3015LF, yeah you could make a headcase but you should use a crossover as the 3015LF has a nasty spike in the upper mids that needs to be taken out.

If they are the 3015 (non LF) don't bother as they don't go as low as the LF model and go much higher than it.
 
#808
Sundogue said:
Are they 3015 (non LF) or the 3015LF? Two completely different speakers.

If they are the 3015LF, yeah you could make a headcase but you should use a crossover as the 3015LF has a nasty spike in the upper mids that needs to be taken out.

If they are the 3015 (non LF) don't bother as they don't go as low as the LF model and go much higher than it.
Click to expand...

aye is the 3015 ie. non LF. I assumed that the headcase wouldn't be a worthwhile addition.
 
#809
Finished my 12/6/1, so now I have a killer stack of 2 (bought the first one used). Didn't come out amazing in terms of appearance, but I'm happy with it. :bassist: Built a sweet rack out of the extra wood from the 4x8 too.

I have a lot more pics, a bunch of "in progress" shots, but I'm not sure the best way to go about posting them.
 

Attachments

  • HPIM0966cropped.JPG
    HPIM0966cropped.JPG
    157.5 KB · Views: 148
#811
brendanbassist said:
Finished my 12/6/1, so now I have a killer stack of 2 (bought the first one used). Didn't come out amazing in terms of appearance, but I'm happy with it. :bassist: Built a sweet rack out of the extra wood from the 4x8 too.

I have a lot more pics, a bunch of "in progress" shots, but I'm not sure the best way to go about posting them.
Click to expand...

Cool. Post them here...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#812
If you want off-axis performance above 1200hz or so, a headcase with a 3015 is definitely worth considering.

Remember, there will be crossover mods to make the 6nd410 work properly. It'll be OK with the 3015, for sure, but not great.

The 3015 is louder in the mids so should need less padding, in addition to any other characteristics that're different. Lots of research to get perfect, but would be OK out of the box with GB's xover.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back