• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

fEARful part nine (9)

Status
Not open for further replies.
#441
bwoodman said:
I'll read some more and hopefully get some help from Leland as well....
Click to expand...

Hopefully Leland will soon be set up to do the whole shooting match as one-stop shopping. Grills seem to be one of the few areas not easily dealt with yet. Sorry if that answer bugged you, but I have really put a lot of time into documenting. Gazillions of hours.
 
#442
greenboy said:
Hopefully Leland will soon be set up to do the whole shooting match as one-stop shopping. Grills seem to be one of the few areas not easily dealt with yet. Sorry if that answer bugged you, but I have really put a lot of time into documenting. Gazillions of hours.
Click to expand...

No worries - I realize that - many hours of documenting = many hours of stuff to read. I've been reading this thread for a long time now and can't wait to build a cab - 'cause everybody says they sound great! I like masonsjax documentation of all the parts he used - that's great, although I will be using a tweeter. I guess I'm just looking for a one sheet at a glance bill of materials. I emailed Leland as well. I got the Heathkit reference from his blog - and I guess that's what he's looking at doing for these cabs? As I mentioned, I have the box building part covered. I also have the grill issue covered - a local shop here in So Cal is doing what Reliable Hardware is doing - round hole pattern grill with 1/2" bent edges using small rubber feet as a standoff, eliminating the need for a wood standoff shown on your plans. I already printed the plans for the 15/6 so I can get started on the box.
 
#443
If you are using rubber or whatever for standoffs why would you need grill bends?

Anyway, the best way to proceed is one step at a time. People who go that route often get done way before people who evaluate the whole thing as if it's just a shopping list that's hard to comprehend. The process need not be overwhelming.
 
#444
Finally finishing the woodworking on my 15/6 tube, getting ready to paint!

I decided to beef up the top bracing, since I have a light amp (iAmp Pro) and have noticed it walking around on other cabs. I did one long brace, from side to side across the middle, and two notched cross braces from front to back, similar to the configuration of the side bracing. Glued the long top brace to the vertical side braces at each end. One short brace runs from the back of the midrange chamber to the cab back, the other runs from baffle to back.

Hope it makes a difference. That network of bracing makes this look like a very solid box!
 
#445
A micros's gonna walk. Although your amp is probably better than some for weight. With my 12/6 I can move stuff on a stone mantle piece in the next room. Well-planned extra bracing is never a bad idea for high-power use, but it's not gonna end all war ; }

EDIT: What does shock me are people with 55+ pound tube heads walking off on Emperor cabs. And the drivers aren't even in the Ludicrous Class!

BattleshipIowaPT_article_story_main.jpg
 
#447
Here's a complete grocery list for my 15/6. All prices are with shipping. Getting the 3015LF from beachaudio and getting one of those $60 NM410s would have gotten me down to $450.

tsgaudio -eBay 3015LF 149.99 ~$520

Erseaudio 3.00mH 16ga IXQ Coil - Laminated Core Inductor 42.55
1.30mH 18ga EQ -Perfect Lay High Bond Air Core Inductor
30.0uF 400V PulseX - Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitor
12.0uF 400V PulseX - Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitor
2.00μF 400v PulseX - Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitor

Partsconnexion 3 - 4.5ohm 50W Mills resistors 29.75
2 - 755ohm 50W Mills resistors

Loudspeakersplus 6nm410 148.74

Menards 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" birch plywood 20

Radio Shack 6-position barrier strip 2.59

Speakerhardware 8- Penn Elcom Chevron corners 54.18
4- Recex screws 1/2-8
32- cabinet screws 1/2-6
10.6 oz PL Premiun
2- Penn Spring flush handle
8- 10/32 hurricane nuts
8- 10/32 cap screws
4- rubber feet
Speakon jack plate kit

JoAnn Fabrics polyfill 22.5
spray adhesive

Reliable Hardware grille 42.76

Adamson's stain 7.00

IMGP1484.gif
 
#450
I'm putting together an order at Parts Express, 3015LF, and 15sub crossover parts. They have the 3.0 Erse inductor and the same value cap from Dayton, not the erse pulse X. Roughly the same price on the cap.

I'm just trying to do the one stop shopping and get the free shipping Parts Xpress offers. Erse had the highest shipping charges of the three suppliers I used on the last project. Nothing wrong with their service, but the shipping was on the high side.
 
#452
Don't forget to factor into your build cost any incidentals and minor tools you might need. I ended up buying a crimper and end pieces, silicone for sealing, wire, extra solder, iron end, etc. If you're not a regular hobbyist, you'll need more of this than otherwise to get your build off the ground.

If you do the reliable grill, I really liked their grill mounting kit. I used one for my second cab, since it wasn't available for the first...and would certainly consider retrofitting some of the baffle stand offs for additional support (if I weren't so damn lazy).

Still worth all of the bits and pieces no matter.
 
#453
Wow, I was really just kind of doing layout and working out the kinks on the stuff on the site. Parts for xovers and 4nm10 drivers will be in Wednesday. I'll probably activate and show in stock full kits and xovers before the week is out.

I still have to get some resistors for the nm10's, what's coming in is for the nd410. You'd have thought I'd done it all at once, but learning curves on crossovers and getting them set up for all the options is pretty steep, and I just missed the change at the bottom of greenboy's page

Flat packs will be a while. The Jack flat packs were a struggle at first, and I appreciate the clients who bought them bore with me through the first few. I'm building a 12/6 cube and a 15/6 this week to get a feel for the box. Auraco and Baltic Birch will be the choices. The plan right now is a biscuit construction. They're not necessary for strength, but I fear the Auraco will warp in shipping, and biscuits cure that when you assemble the box. The bb won't need it, but it does make assembly really easy on any box.

It won't be CNC, but I have a secret weapon. My Dad (89) is the king of jigs. Which is not surprising, because his nickname is Jiggs. After I get the box figured out I'll turn him loose and he'll devise jigs to make it all quick and repeatable. 4 routers and two tablesaws all preset with jigs will make pretty quick work of them.

I've been working up to doing grilles for quite a while. I have all the tooling, just not the time. Right now I only do them for cabs I build and a few of BFM's builders. I'm a wood guy, kind of struggle with metal. But I really want to get good at it also, because it's cool.
 
#455
Leland, it sounds like you've got a decent shop there. I've been making my kits on a portable table saw with only 24" fence and a home made router table. I have to cut the larger pieces with a straight edge and circular saw. It's a bit tedious but it works. I use dado joints.
 
#457
It would be really cool to have a foot activated biscuit jointer. Both hands on the work piece would make it easy to slide the material around.

I think for the 1/2 material I'll bolt the plate of the biscuit jointer down with a fence on either side, and place 1/8" thick slick sheet of masonite in front to raise the material and center the cut. I think I could lock the jointer so it runs all the time and push it with my hip, but a foot pedal would be slick. Better yet, one that triggers the shop vac at the same time.

I'd love to see a photo of the jigs your pops comes up with.
 
#460
singlemalt said:
I think for the 1/2 material I'll bolt the plate of the biscuit jointer down with a fence on either side, and place 1/8" thick slick sheet of masonite in front to raise the material and center the cut. I think I could lock the jointer so it runs all the time and push it with my hip, but a foot pedal would be slick. Better yet, one that triggers the shop vac at the same time.
Click to expand...

I use a hand jointer. I've used a foot, and as long as all you're doing is edges, it's great. I always end up putting them in the middle of panels for braces, kind of hard with a foot operated. BB is so consistent in thickness that they're a set once and forget it operation. A storyboard makes the cuts pretty quick.

Plus I am OUT of shop room. I mean OUT. No place for any more floor tools. That will probably have to change sometime this year.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back