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Fender 2018 MIM Player Series

#301
ruju said:
View attachment 3123560 View attachment 3123561 Here’s my new Player series Precision Bass in Sonic Red. I normally don’t love the red-white pickguard combo but this red has a slight orange hue to it and the white is a bit creamy..
anyway, I am totally impressed with this bass!
Click to expand...

I would play that until every inch of it was cracked and steeped with sweat.
 
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#302
ruju said:
View attachment 3123560 View attachment 3123561 Here’s my new Player series Precision Bass in Sonic Red. I normally don’t love the red-white pickguard combo but this red has a slight orange hue to it and the white is a bit creamy..
anyway, I am totally impressed with this bass!
Click to expand...

I have the same one. I even stained the fretboard with an ebony stain to darken the pf. also put in Duncan "hot p bass" pups. will post pics.
 
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#303
neutralomen said:
I have the same one. I even stained the fretboard with an ebony stain to darken the pf. also put in Duncan "hot p bass" pups. will post pics.
Click to expand...
I’ve got a set of Emg geezers in another “parts bass” I could swap but I dig these new stock Alnico V pickups.. I find them to be nice and warm. Really smooth with the tone rolled off a bit.
I looked forward to seeing some pics of the ebony stained fretboard. I’ll probably just leave mine as is. It’s really not that light, but I imagine a darker fretboard looks really sharp.
 
#306
I have a Player P Bass in Buttercream and it arrived flawless (from zZounds) and plays very nice after a slight truss rod adjustment and string height adjustment. This is something you should expect to do on any new instrument. I also have a G&L Tribute series and I must say I pick it up 80% of the time.
 
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#307
uLZRZPJ.jpg

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Here's mine with the stained neck and Duncan Hot P's
 
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#310
neutralomen said:
I was careful to say, avoid ring finger in most cases, but not all. Esp. if you're an upright jazz player, you'll be doing a lot of arpeggios. Ring finger fingerings are inevitable with a lot of chording, but unlike guitar, you need to be mindful about the efficiency of ring finger use, and avoid unhealthy stretches.

I also mentioned that parallel thumb is for "most" cases, but not all. Especially up towards the first 5 frets, it's also inevitable to have to drop the wrist and pivot the thumb.

The point is, proper bass technique turns your hand into more of a mitten than a claw, and consequently, you don't have the same restrictions you do while tickling a guitar fretboard. Bass comes with its own challenges and limitations, but my original point was, with proper fretting technique, neck thickness and nut width matter less on bass than it does on guitar.
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wrong
 
#311
I’m a huge fender fanboy. I worked on a new player series jazz for a local bassist the other day. I was pretty disgusted how it came from the factory. The nut was cut extremely high. So bad that it would pull fretted notes sharp. The truss nut bottomed out before the neck relief was properly set. I had to put a washer on that. Lastly, there was a terrible buzz even with both pickups on. I noticed the buzz when away if I touched the control plate. But not if I touched the strings or bridge. So I pulled the bridge and the ground wire was not even in place. After filing the nut, putting a washer on the truss rod, completing the ground loop, and doing a proper setup, it was a nice player. I’m just shocked at how bad a new bass was from the factory.
 
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#312
MoeTown1986 said:
I’m a huge fender fanboy. I worked on a new player series jazz for a local bassist the other day. I was pretty disgusted how it came from the factory. The nut was cut extremely high. So bad that it would pull fretted notes sharp. The truss nut bottomed out before the neck relief was properly set. I had to put a washer on that. Lastly, there was a terrible buzz even with both pickups on. I noticed the buzz when away if I touched the control plate. But not if I touched the strings or bridge. So I pulled the bridge and the ground wire was not even in place. After filing the nut, putting a washer on the truss rod, completing the ground loop, and doing a proper setup, it was a nice player. I’m just shocked at how bad a new bass was from the factory.
Click to expand...
seems like a luck of the draw thing. My 2 mains are a custom rickenbacker 4003 and a custom G&L ASAT bass. my Player P Bass was bought as an affordable secondary/backup, and I was really pleasantly surprised with the quality. In fact, I had to have the Rick leveled and crowned by a luthier because Rickenbacker still just sands them into trapezoids. and I needed a new nut and saddles because Rick still uses equal string spacing which is very stupid on a bass.

Anyway, while my G&L has better craftsmanship overall, I have to say the P Bass's neck angle is slightly better. The G&L can use a half-degree shim.

This Player P is a wonderful "out of the box" player
 
#313
neutralomen said:
seems like a luck of the draw thing. My 2 mains are a custom rickenbacker 4003 and a custom G&L ASAT bass. my Player P Bass was bought as an affordable secondary/backup, and I was really pleasantly surprised with the quality. In fact, I had to have the Rick leveled and crowned by a luthier because Rickenbacker still just sands them into trapezoids. and I needed a new nut and saddles because Rick still uses equal string spacing which is very stupid on a bass.

Anyway, while my G&L has better craftsmanship overall, I have to say the P Bass's neck angle is slightly better. The G&L can use a half-degree shim.

This Player P is a wonderful "out of the box" player
Click to expand...
That’s awesome! I wasn’t trying to bash the players series. Just voicing my experience. I’ve worked on many guitars and basses over the years. Come really great cheap ones. And some really bad expensive ones. Human error and QC issues will always be a part of production lines.
 
#314
MoeTown1986 said:
That’s awesome! I wasn’t trying to bash the players series. Just voicing my experience. I’ve worked on many guitars and basses over the years. Come really great cheap ones. And some really bad expensive ones. Human error and QC issues will always be a part of production lines.
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For sure. In fact, for the G&L bass, they had to remake the neck from scratch because they oversanded one side of the board. 2500 bass with a glaring issue like that, and I got a flawlessly level neck on this Player P. Go figure.

I do think the nut is slotted a BIT high, but not so high that it affects tuning. Also, most nuts are cut a little high. I figure it's better too high than too deep out of the factory.
 
#315
neutralomen said:
For sure. In fact, for the G&L bass, they had to remake the neck from scratch because they oversanded one side of the board. 2500 bass with a glaring issue like that, and I got a flawlessly level neck on this Player P. Go figure.

I do think the nut is slotted a BIT high, but not so high that it affects tuning. Also, most nuts are cut a little high. I figure it's better too high than too deep out of the factory.
Click to expand...
Dang! And yeah... Most factory nuts are too high for my tastes, but playable. This one had just under .125” between the 1st fret and E string.
 
#319
I just bought a fender player series jazz bass yesterday and ive been playing the heck out of it. couldn't be happier with my purchase. only thing I upgraded was the pick guard it came with a white one but I opted to put a tortoise shell one on. (an American one) but hey it works and looks good. I may eventually upgrade pups too. nothing really wrong with the stock but I just dig the tone of 60s custom shop pups more.
20180831_013635.jpg
 
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#320
I sold mine a months old butter cream Player P couple day ago.
If the bass have no dead spot on E string and no fret buzz on G string sure I will keep it.
Luvkly I sold it as the price I paid for GC.

Look at my 6 years old well build cheap Squier CV60P again, I promise no more another Pbass.
 

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