I use it with the SB300 as well, Tom, it is just that with the 100T and the SB300 in the stable plus the NV215 I tend to think of 100T/NV115 and SB300/NV215 as sort of logical combinations. I have this great urge to get another NV115...............
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Fender Bassman 100T Chapter 3
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
- Apr 3, 2003
- 35,515
- 19,942
- Disclosures
- Editor-in-Chief, Bass Gear Magazine
Got it, and to be clear, I'm talking about two NV115's with the SB300. I love, love, love my NV215, but I gotta admit, I dig two NV115's even more...
Fender gets it done with an authorized repair facility even if you are the second owner with a signed (endorsed) receipt from the original owner. My auto bias was replaced and is working well. Love this fat tube sound into one of the early BigE cabs. So does my band. If something goes wrong I will take it back to the same repair facility. 4 more years or so on the warranty!. Not too bad. I feel a little sad that they swallow up companies like Genz that would actually transfer you to the man himself, who would send you a return label. But this 5 year transferable warranty is quite outstanding. And the amp head is awesome. I even like my G string on the vintage channel. I never like G strings
I had to have flats to be happy. Not with the SB300.
I had to have flats to be happy. Not with the SB300.
Question for my fellow 100t users, yesterday I was in the studio laying down some demos with the band, and I was using the 100t in silent mode, DI into the board. When I switched to silent mode, both the light on the back for silent mode, plus the light that indicates 25 watt mode were active.
The amp sounded great as always, and didn't seem to be acting up. Anyone else experience this, and/or sound I be concerned? I checked the manual and searched here with no luck. Thanks guys.
The amp sounded great as always, and didn't seem to be acting up. Anyone else experience this, and/or sound I be concerned? I checked the manual and searched here with no luck. Thanks guys.
TorontoAlex - I'm pretty sure this is just how it lights up when switched into Silent Record mode. Mine also lights up both the "silent record" and "25W" lights.
Another DI question for you guys: I've been getting a lot of comments lately (a few churches and studios) that when I'm using the Bassman as a DI it sounds fantastic, but has a lot of noise. A high-end hiss of sorts. Could anybody speak to that and how to eliminate it? One studio disliked it so much that they just had me use a Countryman DI instead.
If you don't know what the issue is but you have a setting that you use for when you're doing Silent Record mode that doesn't seem to hiss, please hook me up with that as well.
Thanks guys!
Another DI question for you guys: I've been getting a lot of comments lately (a few churches and studios) that when I'm using the Bassman as a DI it sounds fantastic, but has a lot of noise. A high-end hiss of sorts. Could anybody speak to that and how to eliminate it? One studio disliked it so much that they just had me use a Countryman DI instead.
If you don't know what the issue is but you have a setting that you use for when you're doing Silent Record mode that doesn't seem to hiss, please hook me up with that as well.
Thanks guys!
Thanks Christianharger, that reassures me then.
Can't say I heard any out-of-place hiss last night when recording, however tons of gain on the active channel though. I usually run the active channel at the about 6-7 when through a cab, yesterday I had to turn it down to about 1 to get the same sort of sound. We we record later in the week, I'll check again for hiss.
Can't say I heard any out-of-place hiss last night when recording, however tons of gain on the active channel though. I usually run the active channel at the about 6-7 when through a cab, yesterday I had to turn it down to about 1 to get the same sort of sound. We we record later in the week, I'll check again for hiss.
I recorded a few weeks ago in a 'real' studio (real tracking room, real control room, big analog gear & board, experienced engineer, lots of gold & platinum on the wall) and the engineer made no mention of hiss. One possible cause would be if you're running your master too high and your channel volume too low. By design, most active preamps like the ones in the 100T give their best noise & distortion performance when they are in the range of 1/3 to 2/3 open, which would relate to between 4 & 7 on the 100T's channel volume knobs. I personally think with my passive basses the sweet spot is 5 - 5.5 on the 100T channel volume. So my standard thing live would be to set the channel volume there, and then adjust the master for the volume I need. Same in the studio in silent record - I'd set channel volume on 5, and then adjust the master to get the amount of distortion I want from the power tubes, but at the very least on 5. Reason being there, the power amp will have a set noise floor, and if you run your master volume low and then crank up the level of the D.I.'s output control, you will be hearing a lot of the noise floor of the power amp. As you raise the master volume control the power amp's noise floor stays where it is as the signal gets louder, so for a clean sound you'd ideally raise the master volume to find where the output tubes begin to distort, then back it down a notch from there, then adjust the output level of the D.I. to suit what the engineer wants. So you now have the signal as far from the noise floor as possible without distortion.
Same is true of the preamp sections - if you run the channel volumes low and then crank the master, you are amplifying the noise floor of the preamp's final gain stage. The worst case would be if you are running both the channel and master low and then cranking up the D.I. level, in which case you're getting a lot of noise from both the preamp and power amp.
You sir, have been a great source of information and, simultaneously, G.A.S.
That said, me and my newly acquired 100T thank you .
Guys, I just got a 2008 standard Fender P (3 tone sunburst with added black guard) for $ 600 Canadian. SCORE. This sounds AWESOME though the 100T and sealed Hydrive 410.
I finally got " one of those deals"..
Marc
That said, me and my newly acquired 100T thank you .
Guys, I just got a 2008 standard Fender P (3 tone sunburst with added black guard) for $ 600 Canadian. SCORE. This sounds AWESOME though the 100T and sealed Hydrive 410.
I finally got " one of those deals"..
Marc
OK, I just got my 100T today - man what an amp! Sounds really killer. This is my first tube amp and I'm still not clear on the proper way to power these on and off with the standby switch. Could someone clue me in here? Are the steps below correct?
Power On The Amp:
1. (Both standby and power are off). Turn Standby to the on position and wait 60 seconds or more before turning the power on.
2. After I've turned the power on, tun the standby back off.
During a break:
1. (Standby is off and power is on). Turn standby on, and turn the power off.
After the break:
1. Turn power on, turn standby off.
Shutdown for the Night:
1. Turn standby on, turn power off.
2. Wait 60 seconds to 5 minutes, then turn standby off.
Thanks!
Power On The Amp:
1. (Both standby and power are off). Turn Standby to the on position and wait 60 seconds or more before turning the power on.
2. After I've turned the power on, tun the standby back off.
During a break:
1. (Standby is off and power is on). Turn standby on, and turn the power off.
After the break:
1. Turn power on, turn standby off.
Shutdown for the Night:
1. Turn standby on, turn power off.
2. Wait 60 seconds to 5 minutes, then turn standby off.
Thanks!
edwinhurwitz
Supporting Member
Not quite. The key is when turing on the amp for the beginning of the night, keep the standby off and turn the power on (this is also assuming the amp is up to room temperature if it has been exposed to cold temperatures while traveling). Next, wait a couple of minutes. Usually I connect the mains first and then the speaker cable, flip the power on and then go about setting up the rest of my stuff. After a few minutes, turn on the standby. The idea is that the power heats up the tube so when the standby is turned to the on position, it isn't a shock when the high voltages are applied.
Now, some people say that during the set break you should turn the standby to off and leave the power on and then flip the standby back to on when ready to play. What I've been recommended to do and this is what I do, is during the break I just turn the volume down and the leave the power and standby on during the break. From my perspective, more wear on the tube is created when flipping the standby on and off than simply letting it idle. So, my bass has a standby position (Alembic Series II electronics) and I just put it in standby for the break.
At the end of the night, I turn the standby to the off position, leaving the power on while I wrap the cables up and a few minutes later, turn off the power. Then I put everything else away and when I'm all done packing up, the amp is cool enough to move.
Terminology clarification: I'm using "on" with reference to standby to mean the run position and "off" to mean the amp is standing by. I can understand how it could be interpreted the other way.
I hope this helps.
Here are links to previous threads on the topic:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/tube-amp-dos-donts-501300/
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/proper-way-turn-shut-down-tube-amp-557562/
Thank you both. I think I've got it now. It's the terminology about standby "on" or "off" that was confusing me. "On" could mean standby is engaged, or "on" could mean that the standby is disengaged and the amp is fully on and ready to play.
For me it's easier to think of it as "in standby mode" or "in play mode".
Anyway, I got it now - thanks!
Here's a slightly blurry pic of the lovely tone machine - Fender 100T,three Ampeg SVT-210-AV's, and my medium scale mid 80's CIJ Fender P Bass running a replacement 1962 Fender P Bass pickup. Tone for days.......
For me it's easier to think of it as "in standby mode" or "in play mode".
Anyway, I got it now - thanks!
Here's a slightly blurry pic of the lovely tone machine - Fender 100T,three Ampeg SVT-210-AV's, and my medium scale mid 80's CIJ Fender P Bass running a replacement 1962 Fender P Bass pickup. Tone for days.......
Quick question: who makes a reasonably priced amp cover for these? eBay only turns up one seller.
Got mine here:
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$35 for 100T, $55 for 410 Neo. Good basic covers. Now they have options like accessory bags and handle flaps.
http://www.coveramp.com/
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www.tukicovers.com used by many Tbrs.
www.sharpcoversnashville.com
Both my cab ( Hydrive 410) and newly acquired 100T have these. Not padded but extremely well made and fitted. Impressed. Will do very well for the level of use I put my gear through at this time.
Paid $83 Canadian for 100T cover. Love it.
Also: Didn't have to measure..Had the 100T measurements on site. Easy.
Marc
Paid $83 Canadian for 100T cover. Love it.
Also: Didn't have to measure..Had the 100T measurements on site. Easy.
Marc
Attachments
I picked up my 100T this evening from the local servicer who replaced the bias chip. This tech was well aware of the issue and we had no problems with Fender shipping the needed part. Amp seems to be functioning normally and I am paying more attention to start up to make sure I am allowing enough time before switching out of standby. Gig tomorrow night so will see how it goes.
