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Fender Custom Shop Club

90A3F17E-07D1-4E45-A690-384D4D41A65A.jpeg
I vote Dakota Red, but the CAR also looks great. Can’t really go wrong either way.
Here my CS Dakota Red. It’s also available
 
+1

I can truly say that out of all of the basses I've owned and currently own, there is something about the Pino that makes me not want to put it down after picking it up. All of the things mentioned above....plus I can't put my finger on it but it's got some sort of mojo, feel, and tone to it that no other bass has that I've ever played. I can confidently say that it's my #1 out of all of my basses. Here's a video of me gettin' down with it!

I agree man! I have a real 63 that is awesome but there is something about my Pino P also that just kills. Same set up and TIs on both basses but the Pino has a certain vibe and feel like no other Precision I’ve played.
 
I believe member @Jim Carr has tried both staked-pots and VVT wirings on his Duo Tone '60 Jazz, so he may add some insight. Take a look here, too.

Midak, you're killin' me! (Where did I put that credit card?)
:smug:

Thanks guys! All those pics really screwed up my color choice!! I want them all!!!!! Based on what I have already I think Candy Apple or Dakota red is the best choice for now. And I think Midak just solidified a tort pickgaurd is the answer for me. Really appreciate the input!
Search and see as many pictures as you can from your top color choices, then make your decision.
I remember opting for CAR for my CS, and then one night coming across an AV '64 Stratocaster in Shoreline Gold; I had a hard time persuading myself that my order was right. :smug: But it was. I believe the color combo you have to opt for is the one that makes you smile on the vast majority of occasions; there will be times of drooling other finishes because of one nice photo or just you being accustomed to yours, but if eventually your choice dominates, you have played it right. ;)

Here is the defining video of me choosing CAR. As soon as I saw it, I knew. Does it ring a bell, @Ace Of Bass? :)


You forgot the Burgundies:

View attachment 3711708
I wanted to keep the list as short as I could, but 'Betsy' is always nice. :)
 
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I am about ready to order a Fender Custom Shop Jazz Bass team build. I hope I'm in the right forum and sorry in advance if I'm not. I want to order the stacked knobs on the bass. Can anyone tell me the difference in tone from stacked vs V/V/T configuration? By your experience of course.

I've had 2 stack-pot Jazzes and 5 or 6 VVT Jazzes. The short answer is a good sounding set of strings on a good sounding bass is more important than the pot arrangement. VVT is easier to use, and thus IME, more flexible tone-wise.

It's simply more intuitive for dialing in a previously used sound—at least for me. Why?

The stacked pots interact in an unintuitive, even slightly chaotic manner. The position of any one pot (tone or volume) affects how the others all behave, and it doesn't seem linear. While it appears that it would be easier to adjust things by touching one stack pot, it often requires ALL four to be moved to get from one desired timbre to another.

I got a CS early '60s Jazz relic duotone (ash and alder body, pic below) in 2014. It is a great sounding and feeling bass, which came with stacked pots. I played it a lot that way for several years, but decided to switch to VVT because I liked how I could dial-in familiar tones on the VVT 64 AVRI Jazz and the Roadworn Jazz I also have. It wasn't just more familiar—I'd gotten used to the stack pots—it was faster to get what I want. Less adjusting to get to the tone desired, and more reliable to nail it with less twiddling and tweaking—as much as I love to twiddle and tweak, LOL.

The VVT set I got was from these folks: Guitar Parts for Madisons Music Store

Naturally, I can switch back when I wish. I have a Flea Jazz that is also stacked pots, but sounds very different from the CS Jazz due to the pick-ups, body, etc., so a comparison is hard.

Bottom line is that for me, the VVT is more useful musically, but not particularly different sounding.

Pics:
Jim's%20CS%20Jazz%20relic_2.JPG

Jim's%20CS%20Jazz%20relic_1.jpg
 
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I have a Flea Jazz that is also stacked pots, but sounds very different from the CS Jazz due to the pick-ups, body, etc., so a comparison is hard.

I always wondered what the hell was up with that Flea bass...it’s so aggressive sounding...more like a ‘70s jazz to my ear...if it’s the pickups I gotta say I think they got it wrong....that bass would be so much better if it had that darker ‘60s jazz sound...
 
I always wondered what the hell was up with that Flea bass...it’s so aggressive sounding...more like a ‘70s jazz to my ear...if it’s the pickups I gotta say I think they got it wrong....that bass would be so much better if it had that darker ‘60s jazz sound...

Not sure that the pink Fender Road Worn Flea I have actually sounds like Flea's pink Jazz. Could be, just don't know. Are you comparing basses, or recordings of basses?
 
Not sure that the pink Fender Road Worn Flea I have actually sounds like Flea's pink Jazz. Could be, just don't know. Are you comparing basses, or recordings of basses?
I’m just referring to every demo I’ve seen of that bass and a very short demo I had with one...the bass sounded very bright when slapped and plucked, very similar to an AVRI ‘75 I used to own..the CS ‘64 nailed that darker timbre that I shoot for with ‘60s Fenders...that darker “that’s definitely an alder body with rosewood” Larry Graham tone...I played a Fender Select all passive that was great at it too..I was very surprised that the Flea sounded so different...not bad, but not what I would look for from a ‘60s Jazz...
 
I’m just referring to every demo I’ve seen of that bass and a very short demo I had with one...the bass sounded very bright when slapped and plucked, very similar to an AVRI ‘75 I used to own..the CS ‘64 nailed that darker timbre that I shoot for with ‘60s Fenders...that darker “that’s definitely an alder body with rosewood” Larry Graham tone...I played a Fender Select all passive that was great at it too..I was very surprised that the Flea sounded so different...not bad, but not what I would look for from a ‘60s Jazz...

The pickups are very scooped. Can't seem to remember what they are, but they are not the same as the CS, MIA, Roadworn/Classic series—I think...???
 
I've had 2 stack-pot Jazzes and 5 or 6 VVT Jazzes. The short answer is a good sounding set of strings on a good sounding bass is more important than the pot arrangement. VVT is easier to use, and thus IME, more flexible tone-wise.

It's simply more intuitive for dialing in a previously used sound—at least for me. Why?

The stacked pots interact in an unintuitive, even slightly chaotic manner. The position of any one pot (tone or volume) affects how the others all behave, and it doesn't seem linear. While it appears that it would be easier to adjust things by touching one stack pot, it often requires ALL four to be moved to get from one desired timbre to another.

I got a CS early '60s Jazz relic duotone (ash and alder body, pic below) in 2014. It is a great sounding and feeling bass, which came with stacked pots. I played it a lot that way for several years, but decided to switch to VVT because I liked how I could dial-in familiar tones on the VVT 64 AVRI Jazz and the Roadworn Jazz I also have. It wasn't just more familiar—I'd gotten used to the stack pots—it was faster to get what I want. Less adjusting to get to the tone desired, and more reliable to nail it with less twiddling and tweaking—as much as I love to twiddle and tweak, LOL.

The VVT set I got was from these folks: Guitar Parts for Madisons Music Store

Naturally, I can switch back when I wish. I have a Flea Jazz that is also stacked pots, but sounds very different from the CS Jazz due to the pick-ups, body, etc., so a comparison is hard.

Bottom line is that for me, the VVT is more useful musically, but not particularly different sounding.

Pics:
Jim's%20CS%20Jazz%20relic_2.JPG

View attachment 3712040
Thanks Dr Jim! That is great info to digest. I also like the safety valve of being able to switch to a VVT if I don't like the stacked knobs.
 
Any thoughts on a compound radius on the neck? My guy tells me I can get lower action with this option?

Instruments like double bass, cello, etc., have compound radius, assuming that means the curve of the fingerboard changes, depending on where on the neck you are, so perhaps there is something to this. However, I generally don't spend time saying to myself, "If only I could get the action 1/64th of an inch lower over the 10th fret." Just my opinion.
 
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