I’ve never personally had an issue, but it’s easy to imagine. I think if Fender would install a pre/post switch, they’d win over some skeptics...
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
You are the best! Thank you!
I'm just used to being able to roll my stage volume up a bit without affecting the mains.
I have a DI off my pedalboard if need be.
Thanks!
Great reply, alan!
But, for a few more specifics about the Master Volume effect on the XLR Out, see the Rumble XLR Out Volume Levels section of the Rumble Club Wiki page, linked in my signature.
.
That's helpful, thanks!
The Gain knob works as an adjustable input pad. That’s why there is only one input. The Rumbles also contain a limiter, which means that they’re very difficult to clip. For that reason, the Rumbles have no clip light either, as it doesn’t really serve a useful function, and for that reason the normal way of adusting gain and volume by adjusting the gain to the point of clipping, backing off a little and then using the Master to control the volume isn’t really relevant for Rumbles either.
So it’s actually easier than you think. You don’t have to worry about how much input it can handle, as you can adjust that via the Gain control. You just plug in, set the Master and Gain controls to taste, and off you go.
It actually clips when Vintage mode is engaged. Depending on the bass its gonna clip sooner or later as you turn the gain up.
Elite Jazz Bass V on active mode will make it clip with gain at 9 oclock. My Classic 60s Jazz will make it clip when gain at 3 oclock...
I use a passive direct box i bought about 35 years ago before a balanced out was the norm on amps. But it would be nice to have it switchable
That keeps happening to me, I try and post a specific section in the wiki, but I just link to the top!
al, be sure to click on a link in the Contents section at the top of The Wiki before you copy the web address for the sectional link.
.
Testing, 1,2.... I think I got it...al, be sure to click on a link in the Contents section at the top of The Wiki before you copy the web address for the sectional link.
.
Link to “connecting combos together:”
Fender Rumble Club Wiki Page | TalkBass.com
If I use the copy bar on Safari (on my iPhone) then it links the specific section. If I use the copy button on the bottom, it still links the top of the page, even if I’ve clicked on the TOC button... So that was the problem!
Ah, Technology...
Last edited:
So the limiter suppresses the input signal when it reaches a certain level rather than pull the amp's signal off the speakers like some amps do?
I have a Peavey Max that suddenly drops volume if pushed to hard, and a Hartke that cuts out completely for a couple seconds at a certain threshold.
Thank you!
As I understand it, the Delta-Comp limiter keeps the amp from hard clipping, but by all accounts the sound will definitely change the harder the amp is driven, and among other things become more compressed.
I prefer a clean tone myself, and the 500 is powerful and loud enough that I’ve never had to push it particularily hard anyway, so I have little practical experience of what happens when you do. I have certainly never experienced, or heard of, a Rumble cutting out in this way, which I suspect is because of the Delta-Comp limiter doing its job.
The Rumble series is, to my mind at least, one of the simplest and most logical amps to operate, but this simplicity often causes confusion if you’re used to traditional amps.
Vintage mode is directly affected by your gain settings, so that makes sense. I don’t use it much live, just at bedroom volume levels when practicing at home. My gain settings are usually also fairly conservative anyway, which probably accounts for never having experienced it.
I prefer a clean tone as well, with just some clean preamp, eq and comp pedals... just don't want to accidentally push it too hard.
Mostly use only passive pickups. I normally don't run my preamps much hotter than necessary to give the passives just a little help.
I need something lightweight with some loud clean punch that won't cut out. I'd like to just save my big amp for larger events.
From all I'm learning the Rumble 500 will work form me.
Thank you!
Last edited:
This sounds all very interesting, but what USB 1 and 2 are y'all talking about? On the Stage 800 or an interface? Y'all made me check the back of my 800 again to make sure I ain't gone crazy and only have the one USB port.
DS,
There is only one USB port on the Rumble Studio 40 / Stage 800; but, when you the connect it to your DAW via the USB cable, there are 2 digital audio INPUT channels on the audio device.
Most DAWs (computers) simply refer to these as channels as Input 1 and 2 on that audio device. I referred to them as USB 1 and 2 to differentiate the two USB audio channels from the LINE OUT ports that carry the same signals in analog.
When the LINE OUT amp setting is set to PRE/POST: USB input 1 contains the POST signal; and USB input 2 contains the PRE signal. When the LINE OUT is set to STEREO: USB input 1 contains the LEFT signal; and USB input 2 contains the RIGHT signal.
But, again, both input channels are carried on the single USB port.
Sorry for the confusion.
No no, don't apologize. I'm new to recording with anything newer than DAT. I was confused by the stereo USB recording. I think I understand now. The one USB out on the amp is split into two usb's via the interface? But only one of the two channels is balanced?
These posts caught my attention because I enjoy using stereo delays.
Correct. Verified. I second that.
I think it’s more accurate to say the single USB cable/connection carries 2 digital audio channels.
The 2 digital audio channels on the USB connection are carrying the same content as the LINE OUT outputs. What is on each of those channels is dictated by what the amp's LINE OUT setting is set to.
The most straightforward setup to understand is when the amp’s LINE OUT setting is to STEREO. The “PRE” line out XLR cable and input channel 1 on the USB cable both the left side of the stereo signal. The “POST” line out XLR cable and input channel 2 on the USB cable has the right side of the stereo signal. These signals are balanced volume level-wise.
When the amp’s LINE OUT setting is set to PRE/POST, the “PRE” line out cable and USB channel 2 contains the “pre” unaffected bass signal. The “POST” line out cable and USB channel 1 contains the “post” signal with all the amp processing. Because the “POST” signal contains all the amp processing it is much stronger than the unaffected “PRE” signal. However, these are both mono signals, and not intended to be combined like a stereo signal. They are for different mixing purposes.
I have a MM Sterling and a Fender American Elite Precision. The amp sits on a stand, so there no issue with that. In addition to the "wooley" sound, when playing mp3's though the auxilary jack the sound is less than good. Playing them through the headphones sounds much better.
I'll probably go the Fender route again. They asked for the part number and when I gave them that, they couldn't find anything, so they asked for any other identifying info on there. I guess I'll pull the speaker out of the cab to see what I can find. It's not like I don't have the extra time. ;-)Bluzy, I'd be wary of changing the speaker in your Rumble Studio 40 to another make/model lest it change the voicing on some, maybe many(!), of the modeling tones, possibly not for the better. Better to take it to an Authorized Fender Service Center for diagnosis and, if it does need a new speaker they can get the OEM speaker it was designed for, so you get the intended voicings. Anything else could be taking a chance of making things worse.
.
