I bet it would. I'm familiar with the Hartke sound. I played through one for about 20 years. But I'm not looking just yet. I'll focus in on it after the holidays. The search will start up sometime in January and it'll likely be March before I can make the purchase. Not enough cash on hand....
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I bet it would. I'm familiar with the Hartke sound. I played through one for about 20 years. But I'm not looking just yet. I'll focus in on it after the holidays. The search will start up sometime in January and it'll likely be March before I can make the purchase. Not enough cash on hand....
Nope. No debt. Whenever and whatever I buy, I'll pay for it at the time (credit card balance is $0). I've had too much bad history with debt to go down that road again.
Two 8 ohm cabs in parallel yields 4 ohms. An 8 and a 16 in parallel yields 5.3 ohms. So you’ll get roughly 2/3 of the extra power you’d get out of two 8 ohm cabs. And you’re moving more air. The biggest difference will be that with a 16, more of the power goes through the 8 ohm cab, so the 16 ohm cab isn’t helping as much as it could be.Not bad at all, joel. Rumblers, we are, and happy to be so!
What's bad is you haven't shown us a pic of your Rumble 200 yet and picked up your officialClub number! Come on. We wanna see!
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Yes, as @dbbltime said, you are correct, sir. Most any 8 ohm cab should work OK, if it can handle the up to 100-watts continuous that your R200c can put into it (or if you keep the volume down, if not)
Now, that's not to say that other brands will sound as good as the Rumble cabs that were actually designed to work best with Rumble amps and combos. But they should work OK.
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Yes, SB, a 16 ohm cab would be electrically acceptable to use, since it is above the 8 ohm minimum. But, it probably won't give the full extra power that an 8 ohm cab would!
That is, just like the R500c built-in 8 ohm cab gives only 70%, or 350-watts max, of the amp's 500-watt potential, the 16 ohm cab may only give some similar percentage of the extra 150-watt potential, for example, perhaps only about ~100-watts(+/-), and may even reduce the power to the internal cab, say ~50-watts(+/-) for a total of just ~400-watts(+/-), which may amount to an imperceptible difference. [Swag figures! There's prob'ly a way to calculate a closer estimation, but I'm not familiar with it] At any rate, the 16 ohm external cab would produce a lot less power than the 8 ohm internal cab! If that is acceptable to you, then go for it!
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@joelns
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If you wanted to keep it in the family, I’ll bet this would sound good:
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Can you tell I like 15s?
Well if we’re mixin’ driver sizes, why not one of these?
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If you wanted to keep it in the family, I’ll bet this would sound good:
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Can you tell I like 15s?
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Ok, G-Dog, here you go:
Now you're Talkin'Bass, joelly! Beautiful! @joelns, you are now member #1266 in the Fender Rumble Club. Congratulations and welcome. Put your Club number in your signature to be instantly recognized as a bassist of distinction. You've been with us a while, so you probably already know about the Rumble Club Wiki page of beaucoup information.
Glad to have you with us, joel. Please do keep us apprised of your Rumble journey, as we all merrily ... . . . .
Rumble On!
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Hmmm, ... January is one of two times a year when the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] usually presents new models of gear! I say "usually" because The 'Rona canceled this year's Summer NAMM and could do the same in January '21. In fact, if you followed that link, they seem to be currently focused on January 2022?!!
Anyhoos, there could, conceivablly, be another new Rumble, or two, such as when the Stage & Studio were introduced in '18 and the LT25 & 800 HD in '19. Or maybe even a whole revamp of the line as the 7-year-old V1s gave way to the V2s in '10, and when the 4-year-old V2s made way for the V3s in '14. The V3s will be 7-years-old in January '21. Hmmmm ... ...
What new Rumblings would you like to see ... ... ?
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Thx G-dog. I was speculating along your answer. I first wanted to make sure I would not blow up the Rumble as I know that non-tube amps are more delicate in reacting to incorrect ohm loads. I wasn't sure if 16 was considered greater than 8 as some things get odd in this regard, like wire gage (eg, 8 is much bigger than 16). So I will plug in one of my Utah 15" speakers loaded in a cab I made with my dad some 50 years ago. Hope I don't end up blowing speaker cone fragments all over!Not bad at all, joel. Rumblers, we are, and happy to be so!
What's bad is you haven't shown us a pic of your Rumble 200 yet and picked up your officialClub number! Come on. We wanna see!
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Yes, as @dbbltime said, you are correct, sir. Most any 8 ohm cab should work OK, if it can handle the up to 100-watts continuous that your R200c can put into it (or if you keep the volume down, if not)
Now, that's not to say that other brands will sound as good as the Rumble cabs that were actually designed to work best with Rumble amps and combos. But they should work OK.
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Yes, SB, a 16 ohm cab would be electrically acceptable to use, since it is above the 8 ohm minimum. But, it probably won't give the full extra power that an 8 ohm cab would!
That is, just like the R500c built-in 8 ohm cab gives only 70%, or 350-watts max, of the amp's 500-watt potential, the 16 ohm cab may only give some similar percentage of the extra 150-watt potential, for example, perhaps only about ~100-watts(+/-), and may even reduce the power to the internal cab, say ~50-watts(+/-) for a total of just ~400-watts(+/-), which may amount to an imperceptible difference. [Swag figures! There's prob'ly a way to calculate a closer estimation, but I'm not familiar with it] At any rate, the 16 ohm external cab would produce a lot less power than the 8 ohm internal cab! If that is acceptable to you, then go for it!
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TOO right, SB! Electricity involves non-intuitive math, for sure. Like 8 ohms + 8 ohms = 4 ohms!! Or, in your case, 8 ohms + 16 ohms = 5.33 ohms, as Milesey pointed out. So, it's always a good idea to get others (Multiples) to check your electrical math. But, yeah, 16 ohms is still greater than 8 ohms.
And, IIRC, wire gauges are also (at least sorta, somehow) figured on resistance, too, I think. Hence their seemingly backward numbering, with smaller diameters having higher AWG (resistance) numbers.
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Just start with a very low Master Volume, SB, and gently increase as you think prudent. 
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So here's another question: I have 2 of these 16 ohm cabinets, each with 1-15" Utah speaker. So using electrical whacko math, two 16 ohm speakers together = 8 ohms which is what I need to get the Rumble's full 500 watts. So the question is how do I hook up the 2 cabinets to each other: In parallel or series? So one cabinet will have an input jack and an output jack to the other cabinet.TOO right, SB! Electricity involves non-intuitive math, for sure. Like 8 ohms + 8 ohms = 4 ohms!! Or, in your case, 8 ohms + 16 ohms = 5.33 ohms, as Milesey pointed out. So, it's always a good idea to get others (Multiples) to check your electrical math. But, yeah, 16 ohms is still greater than 8 ohms.
And, IIRC, wire gauges are also (at least sorta, somehow) figured on resistance, too, I think. Hence their seemingly backward numbering, with smaller diameters having higher AWG (resistance) numbers.
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I wish my dad was still on this planet as he was a brilliant electronics engineer. He worked on things like the Space Shuttle and submarines. He was my amp tech when I was in my teens. I always struggled trying to learn electronics from him. He was a great teacher, but my brain is just not "wired" for electronics theory. Sigh....
I 'suck' at electronics myself, but I think you could use a "Y" connector, like this. Amp, cord >"Y">cab 1, cord>cab 2.
Hosa YPP-111 Y Cable - 1/4-inch TS Male to Dual 1/4-inch TS Female
OMG! I might be getting a Rumble 15 cab to go with my 500 combo. And I don't even GIG!! 
Parallel is the way you want to wire them. The Y adapter GonePlaid linked will work perfectly. Just be sure to double check that it's a "speaker cable" and not an instrument cable. You don't want to power speakers with instrument cables or splitters.
I've heard a 15" Utah in a smallish cabinet. Even thought it's considered a "guitar" speaker, it would have been amazing for bass as well. I have two 12" Michigans I run in one old cab and they are very impressive too.
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with tube amps, you don’t want the impedance too high (no speaker is much too high). With SS amps you don’t want it too low (a short being the worst).
Tape your windows and let the pets out first. Gets very loud and tons of low end.OMG! I might be getting a Rumble 15 cab to go with my 500 combo. And I don't even GIG!!
Worth it!OMG! I might be getting a Rumble 15 cab to go with my 500 combo. And I don't even GIG!!
Just so YOU can hear it.
It’ll be fun!
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The two cabs need to be connected parallel with speaker wire, not instrument cable. Yes, when you see multiple connectors on a speaker cab they are usually in parallel and you can daisy-chain one cab to the next. Then each 16 ohm cab would see up to 125 watts, and the internal 250W, for a full total of up to 500 watts.
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Well, maybe not. First, that looks more like instrument cable than thicker speaker wire. And, B, it doesn't say if it is series or parallel. Although probably parallel, it could possibly be series, which would give a 32 ohm load, plus the internal 8 ohms, giving a total of 6.4 ohms and even less power than the combo with a single 16 ohm cab!
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Right, Morbi! But that don't look like speaker cable to me. I've only seen those used for instruments.
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OMG! I might be getting a Rumble 15 cab to go with my 500 combo. And I don't even GIG!!
Hooray, Morbi! Then please, please, I beg you, show us a pic and claim your rightful number in The Club!
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I mentioned the "Y" connector as a simple alternative to doing surgery on the cabs. I'd noticed in the past that those connectors don't care what 'direction' I wanted the signal to travel. Everything went to all 3 points.
And remember what the original "speaker cables" for piggyback 7enders looked like-lamp wire.
