Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
...
Can anyone confirm the type of EQ on the Bass and Trebble of the Rumble amp is a bell type EQ? I know for the mids it HAS to be a bell type. After checking the response curves on the Fender Rumble 500 Frequencies Wiki Page (great stuff BTW) it seems to be a bell type EQ on the Bass and High Shelf on the Trebble, but 'm not completely sure. Also checked the manual and searched the web but I haven't found this info.
I don’t think you'll find any better info on this for Rumbles anywhere other than these Min. & Max. Frequency graphs, Love. I see your uncertainty about the Treble Minimum, but all the others certainly look nicely bell shaped to me.
Is this something you've seen published for many other amp brands? Can it sometimes be a major concern? I'm unfamiliar with the consequences it can cause. Can you please educate me?
.
And here I thought the term "Sock it to Me" was just a "Laugh-in" joke...
NEVER heard of it..!
That's my story and I'm sticking to it... ...Goodnight, Dick.Tim
I haven’t checked this info for other amps. And I assume Fender have used what they consider suits best.
I think in the case of Bass EQ knob it's best to use bell instead of low shelf because there is no need to amplify anything below 40hz on a bass. In fact it would be eating up headroom space and not adding any benefits, just problems. But in the trebble EQ it could be possible that they use a high shelf instead of a bell because it’s a much more subtle and less problematic frequency band, even more so if we’re talking bass. So high shelf could add that little extra brightness compared to a bell.
I also noticed this ultra sharp cut around 30Khz in the freq. graphs which I find useless. Might have been better to apply a fixed LPF at around 12Khz that could’ve removed some of the high frequency noise I hear, especially when gain is set high… anyway, there is no cause for concern. I was just curious.
Last edited:
I never thought about this detail of amp design before. But it makes sense. But, whatever design considerations were examined, I bet supply and/or manufacturing concerns were also a factor for the Rumble value line of amps.
Uh, ... but, ... but, the low B at around 30hz is my favorite string! I can understand if it's not actually that frequency I'm hearing, but I sure feel something that I interpret to be that frequency. YMMV
I can see the Treble Minimum being a shelf curve. But the Treble Maximum sure looks like a truncated bell to me. No?
Yeah, I see all the curves truncated at about 25Khz. But I don't know if that's an electronic limit in the amp, or in the production of the graphs. 
And just to complicate things, you'll notice a 2nd order HPF just before the Delta-Comp circuit in the block diagrams. That HPF setting is unpublished, and no one has yet posted here any interaction with an external HPF they might have noticed.
And just to complicate things, you'll notice a 2nd order HPF just before the Delta-Comp circuit in the block diagrams. That HPF setting is unpublished, and no one has yet posted here any interaction with an external HPF they might have noticed.
Thanks for the insights, Love. Very interesting. 
.
.
Last edited:
And the Laugh-In joke was a takeoff on the Mitch Ryder hit song of the same name. Great band, great song, great TV show.And here I thought the term "Sock it to Me" was just a "Laugh-in" joke
Hi all,
I own a Fender Rumble 500. I'm here looking for some info to get one good tone setting for all three of my basses. Most importantly a good tone for my Yamaha BBP35 with chromes (neck pick up only). Nowadays, with a newborn, I'm a bedroom player so I don't have to worry about cutting through a mix or be heard in a live situation. I don't know much of EQ-ing yet, but I'm looking forward to dive into all the information here. Nice to meet you all!
I own a Fender Rumble 500. I'm here looking for some info to get one good tone setting for all three of my basses. Most importantly a good tone for my Yamaha BBP35 with chromes (neck pick up only). Nowadays, with a newborn, I'm a bedroom player so I don't have to worry about cutting through a mix or be heard in a live situation. I don't know much of EQ-ing yet, but I'm looking forward to dive into all the information here. Nice to meet you all!
Yeah sub bass is more felt that heard. But as you say, we indentify those freqs mostly thanks to harmonics. When you are EQing (adding, not subracting) you generally aim to enhance harmonic content, not fundamentals. So there's no need to set an EQ that low in the spectrum.
I think it's either one or the other, not H shelf and Bell. So probably High shelf for Trebble +/-
It makes sense because lower freqs. have much more energy, so they are the ones usually triggering the comp. This is why some compressors have a HPF (with on/off switch and sometimes sweepable cutting point). Especially mix bus comps or comps with a side chain input. This allows for more subtle comp and provides more control.
Last edited:
Howdy, Mv! @MvdO, you are now member #1682 in the Fender Rumble Club. Congratulations and welcome to TalkBass in general and to The Club in particular. Please put that number in your TalkBass Signature for safe keeping. Then make yourself at home here and on your Rumble Club Wiki page, the repository of all Rumbling wisdom and knowledge.
Mv, check out the Rumble Tone Pool section on your Wiki page for help on your Tone Quest. First, the Flat settings can give you a good starting point for dialing in any room. Then the Tone Pool spreadsheet has several settings from users for various songs and genres.
So, how about telling us a bit about yourself, such as your bass experience in general and your Rumble journey in particular? You'll fit right in here since we have all kinds. But we all love to ... ... ...
Rumble On!
.
.
Welcome to Rumbleland, and congratulations on your new addition to your family. You’ll find tons of helpful info and insight here.
The past couple days there has been some discussion about updating and improving Rumble 40 that has piqued my interest. I am still very much a beginner at bass. I bought a R40 as my first amp with my first bass. It sure is a great little one to have at the house and take to a small acoustic group. I am always looking for ways to improve my gear to ensure it stays well ahead of my skill level.
So, based upon the discussion from Astrosonic here, I started looking at what I could do to my R40. I might consider replacing the driver at some point, but AS said that blocking one port and tubing the other port helped the quality of his R40. Well, I decided I could do this a bit elegantly (and non-permanently) with some CAD and 3D printing.
The length of the tube to the center of the angle is the 2 5/8" (67mm) that AstroSonic calculated in his post. The plug is sized so that the back of the plug is flush with the back of the existing port tube in the cabinet. Both are a tight slip fit. I will need to put some shims, 2-side tape, or a little silicone to hold them more permanently in place if I want to keep this setup.
You can see a small position index notch in the port tube (@ around 1030) so that I can align the angled tube end towards the center of the speaker cone.
Results? Well, my ear is not as well schooled for subtle bass tone changes as it is for woodwind playing. But I sat in front of this cabinet for a while playing the bass (G2220 with LB Flats) while inserting/removing the tube and plug in various combinations. I think I could hear a bit of mid clarity improvement with the plug and tube inserted. I will admit however that could also be a confirmation bias as I know what someone else has reported this as a result. So, psychosomatic, or real? Not sure. It certainly did not make any negative impact on the sound for sure.
So, based upon the discussion from Astrosonic here, I started looking at what I could do to my R40. I might consider replacing the driver at some point, but AS said that blocking one port and tubing the other port helped the quality of his R40. Well, I decided I could do this a bit elegantly (and non-permanently) with some CAD and 3D printing.
The length of the tube to the center of the angle is the 2 5/8" (67mm) that AstroSonic calculated in his post. The plug is sized so that the back of the plug is flush with the back of the existing port tube in the cabinet. Both are a tight slip fit. I will need to put some shims, 2-side tape, or a little silicone to hold them more permanently in place if I want to keep this setup.
You can see a small position index notch in the port tube (@ around 1030) so that I can align the angled tube end towards the center of the speaker cone.
Results? Well, my ear is not as well schooled for subtle bass tone changes as it is for woodwind playing. But I sat in front of this cabinet for a while playing the bass (G2220 with LB Flats) while inserting/removing the tube and plug in various combinations. I think I could hear a bit of mid clarity improvement with the plug and tube inserted. I will admit however that could also be a confirmation bias as I know what someone else has reported this as a result. So, psychosomatic, or real? Not sure. It certainly did not make any negative impact on the sound for sure.
Last edited:
A set(pair?)of good ol' Mark I ears is yer best test.(Mine not so much, w/ or w/o my hearing aids
)
Wow, Ho! 3D printing your own port accessories, eh? Good on ya.
You didn't say anything about lining the interior of the cab while still using the stock speaker, as AS did? Have you tried that? Many Rumblers here, including AS, say that makes a big difference!
.
I have been at this 3D printing game since the late 80s. Not many have been for longer. I have a small farm of printers in the basement so I seem to find uses for my design skills and printers nearly everywhere I look. Done quite a bit of printing replacements parts for my basses as well (Pickguards, reamer guides, truss rod covers, pickup rings, and my fun pedalboard concept).Wow, Ho! 3D printing your own port accessories, eh? Good on ya.
You didn't say anything about lining the interior of the cab while still using the stock speaker, as AS did? Have you tried that? Many Rumblers here, including AS, say that makes a big difference!
.
I did not do any lining. You are correct. I got a bit overwhelmed by the choices of materials and the location and installation thereof. Also, I did not have any material on hand to try out. Maybe some foam on the bottom and one side like AS tried. Just not sure which foam, how thick, which side, etc. No worries. I got time to play with it.
Hey, Ho. Have you thought about making corners for Rumble grille frames? Many here, like me, would probably be willing to buy a set or two if they could easily be DIY assembled (stapled?) together with the side lengths, and fabric, of our choice to make a new grille! What do you think?
The lining of your Rumble isn't nearly as scientific as port tuning or switching speakers. In fact, as many of us here like to say, just "put a sock in it"! Yes, as a test, simply stuff a bit of any handy material into one, or two, ports to dampen the tone to see if that's an acceptable improvement to your ears, or not. Maybe try different amounts, different materials to see what sounds best to you. If it helps, then maybe lining might be worth a try!
AS said he used Acoustastuff[sic] (from Parts Express) to line the bottom and one side (either side since it's symmetrical) with the stock speaker. I read AS to say he also added lining to the back after swapping out the stock speaker. And, here's an audiophile's praise of the Acousta-stuf material, though he seemed to stuff the entire cab!!
Good luck.
.
Last edited:
Not sure what you mean by grill corners. If you mean a way to join longer wooden/plastic sticks of some dimension to make the frame for grills? I might take a look at mine and see what might work.Hey, Ho. Have you thought about making corners for Rumble grille frames? Many here, like me, would probably be willing to buy a set or two if they could easily be DIY assembled (stapled?) together with the side lengths, and fabric, of our choice to make a new grille! What do you think?
The lining of your Rumble isn't nearly as scientific as port tuning or switching speakers. In fact, as many of us here like to say, just "put a sock in it"! Yes, as a test, simply stuff a bit of any handy material into one, or two, ports to dampen the tone to see if that's an acceptable improvement to your ears, or not. Maybe try different amounts, different materials to see what sounds best to you. If it helps, then maybe lining might be worth a try!
AS said he used Acoustastuff[sic] (from Parts Express) to line the bottom and one side (either side since it's symmetrical) with the stock speaker. I read AS to say he also added lining to the back after swapping out the stock speaker. And, here's an audiophile's praise of the Acouta-stuf material, though he seemed to stuff the entire cab!!
Good luck.
.
I saw AS's comment about the Acoustastuff but it did not exactly make sense to me. That looks like stuffing. But the way he wrote it sounded more like layered material. How do you put bulk packing material on just one surface? That is where I was having trouble visualizing what he meant. I could see laying some denim batting or some thin egg crate foam along one or more interior walls. Not sure if that would have the same effect or not.
Yes, I mean just the corners of the wooden (or could be staple-able plastic) frame. That's the weak(est) point of my woodworking skilz in trying to build my own.
IKR? I was also confused to see the stuffing instead of a layered foam. Maybe it can be flattened out into whatever layer thickness you want? Perhaps @AstroSonic might remember and comment here?
Others here have used various layered foam, or woven-like, materials in different thicknesses with good results. Example 1, example 2 ...
Others here have used various layered foam, or woven-like, materials in different thicknesses with good results. Example 1, example 2 ...
If the "sock in the port" experiment works, then either of those are worth a try. The only "best solution" is what sounds good to you.
.
.
Frost King CF1 "No Itch" Natural Cotton Multi-Purpose Insulation, 16 x 1 x 48-Inch https://a.co/d/0lBs3uR
I stapled this stuff to the top, back, and sides of my r100. It seemed to do the trick.
I stapled this stuff to the top, back, and sides of my r100. It seemed to do the trick.
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
Thanks for that. I was looking at recycled denim
https://www.parts-express.com/Sonic...0mm-x-40-x-55-15.2-Sq.-ft.-260-566?quantity=1
or maybe some fancy foam
https://www.parts-express.com/Sonic-Barrier-1-2-Acoustic-Foam-w-PSA-18-x-24-260-520?quantity=1
or maybe some sculpted sonic foam
https://www.amazon.com/JBER-Acousti...ords=acoustic+foam&qid=1697582511&sr=8-7&th=1
or perhaps the form/material of the attenuation material is less important than that there is SOME material in there at all.
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
