It's Memorial Day Weekend. Please remember to observe by buying a car, mattress, or major appliance. 
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
It's Memorial Day Weekend. Please remember to observe by buying a car, mattress, or major appliance.
We have a local chain of a Lowe's/Home Depot competitor celebrating with a 3-day tax-free weekend! Pay no sales tax!! The most patriotic deal I've heard of!!! Wish a music store would do that. Come on, it's just a 10% discount.
I played a gig with a friend's Rumble 200 a few weeks ago.... left me VERY, VERY impressed. Simple, loud, efficient, light, etc.... LOVED IT and started shopping!
My normal rig is an Aguilar Tone Hammer 500 with a pair of Markbass NY121 cabs, ZERO complaints. But, after I started shopping - I started wondering about going Rumble 500 with the 2x10 b/c of the ability to add a matching cab. But, then I saw people in this thread stacking combos.... so, I'm not really sure I need to stretch to the 500 watt, 2x10.
My normal rig is an Aguilar Tone Hammer 500 with a pair of Markbass NY121 cabs, ZERO complaints. But, after I started shopping - I started wondering about going Rumble 500 with the 2x10 b/c of the ability to add a matching cab. But, then I saw people in this thread stacking combos.... so, I'm not really sure I need to stretch to the 500 watt, 2x10.
Personally, I'm a big fan of the R200 and a huge fan of the stacked R100 and R200. That's the old school sound I was looking for.
Brandon Shea
Commercial User
Do you have any particular budget in mind? If you're comfortable spending more, the Rumble 800 combo is worth considering over the 500 simply because it's lighter (29 pounds vs. 37, if I remember correctly). The 800 also has a switch to let you put it into low power mode when you don't need as much volume. Those are really just luxuries though – I think most of us would've been amazed by how light any of these combos are if they had existed 20 years ago.
No budget, but if I were going to spend that much.... I'd also take a strong look at the Quilter Bass Dock 12 & V803 head.
I love my V803, but not sure you can fit the cost of that plus the QBD12 anywhere near the cost of the R800. QBD12 is 37 lb without the V803, as well.
Very, very true.... a glorious time to have the options we have!!!! When I first started gigging, my band used to have to rent power amps for our bassist. The affordable, toneful, and powerful options are mind blowing these days!!!!
I avoided thyem for a while because I assumed any cab that light must be a cheap, crappy entry level cab. Boy, was I wrong!
Quilter has stopped producing the Bass Dock 12, but there may be a few NOS left in the wild.
The GK Neo IV 112 is about 30 lbs. and $800.
Genzler BA-10-2-S2 is 19 lbs and $840.
Barefaced Super Compact is 23.5 lbs and $1280.
[Just considering what I would consider hooking the V803 up to.]
RevSound also makes several cabinets that are very lightweight and reasonably priced!
Todays gig setup.
Two R100C:s chained, 1995:ish CIJ Jazz and 1971 MIJ Greco and a Zoom B3.
Two R100C:s chained, 1995:ish CIJ Jazz and 1971 MIJ Greco and a Zoom B3.
I had an opportunity to buy a Zoom MS-60B+ from my local store for just $20. So of course I took advantage of it. So now my question is, if I'm using a cab sim from that pedal, is it correct to put the EQ knobs to true flat (not just noon), no EQ buttons (bright, contour, and vintage) and just connect it to the input jack instead of the return jack? I have an old secondhand R500 if that matters. I'm thinking that's the best way to really hear the cab sim but I'm a newbie still trying to learn.
And if you have this multi-fx pedal, do you have any tips for me? Thank you!
And if you have this multi-fx pedal, do you have any tips for me? Thank you!
I don’t have that pedal, but have you tried connecting it to the FX return and bypassing the amp EQ completely?
Mods are all done, I'm really pleased with how it all came out.
Here's how it went....
R40 cab speaker cutout needed to be enlarged about 1/16 or so to fit the PA255. Did that in about 15 min. with a Dremel and rotary sander bit.
Cut a hole in the back for the jack plate.
Removed the existing port tubes, installed some 2" USPS mailing tubes cut to 4 7/16" long.
Added polyfill to the bottom, one side and part of the back.
Installed a spring handle to the bottom for tilt-back (had to grind the handle housing to get the angle right).
Installed some taller feet to clear the tilt back handle.
Soldered everything up.
By itself the R40 with internal amp connected is greatly improved. About 3-4 lbs. heavier but the volume and tone are much better.
Running the R350 head into the newly installed R40 speaker in jack is GREAT! Tried it at rehearsal and it does fine in the mix with enough beans to keep up with the drummer.
Connect the R350 head into the R40 (as an extension speaker) and then adding the R115 cab is amazing! Stacked up puts the R40 high enough to project well and gets the controls at a comfortable height. I was concerned about unequal levels and phasing issues but so far the two drivers seem to play well with each other.
Really digging the modularity. Can one trip carry the R40, R350 and bass for small/medium gigs and optionally bring the R115 along for bigger ones (two trip carry tho). Mucho kudos to all the folks on the forum for the how-tos and tips! I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a R500... then I'll have a main and backup rig that can be combined many ways and is still light and easy to move.
Rumble on! Any questions or suggestions are most welcome.
P.S.- My approx. 10 year old R115 cab has grill cloth rot. New cloth is on order, I'm not looking forward to replacing it... a real PITA.
Here's how it went....
R40 cab speaker cutout needed to be enlarged about 1/16 or so to fit the PA255. Did that in about 15 min. with a Dremel and rotary sander bit.
Cut a hole in the back for the jack plate.
Removed the existing port tubes, installed some 2" USPS mailing tubes cut to 4 7/16" long.
Added polyfill to the bottom, one side and part of the back.
Installed a spring handle to the bottom for tilt-back (had to grind the handle housing to get the angle right).
Installed some taller feet to clear the tilt back handle.
Soldered everything up.
By itself the R40 with internal amp connected is greatly improved. About 3-4 lbs. heavier but the volume and tone are much better.
Running the R350 head into the newly installed R40 speaker in jack is GREAT! Tried it at rehearsal and it does fine in the mix with enough beans to keep up with the drummer.
Connect the R350 head into the R40 (as an extension speaker) and then adding the R115 cab is amazing! Stacked up puts the R40 high enough to project well and gets the controls at a comfortable height. I was concerned about unequal levels and phasing issues but so far the two drivers seem to play well with each other.
Really digging the modularity. Can one trip carry the R40, R350 and bass for small/medium gigs and optionally bring the R115 along for bigger ones (two trip carry tho). Mucho kudos to all the folks on the forum for the how-tos and tips! I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a R500... then I'll have a main and backup rig that can be combined many ways and is still light and easy to move.
Rumble on! Any questions or suggestions are most welcome.
P.S.- My approx. 10 year old R115 cab has grill cloth rot. New cloth is on order, I'm not looking forward to replacing it... a real PITA.
Adding some info on the R40 ports.
I understand that the port diameter is slightly different depending on the age.
On mine (indeterminate age) they are staggered diameter with the outside 2.10" and the inside 2.25". the transition occurs half way thru the baffle board.
The USPS mailing tubes are two tubes sleeved, inner tube is 2.125"and outer tube is 2.25. After removing the stock tubes and cutting the new ones I was able to finesse (pound) the 2.10" inner USPS tube from the front and then slide the 2.25" outer USPS tube on it from the rear. The 2.25" tube snugs nicely into the 2.25" port from the rear. Glued it all up, just need to paint them black.
I understand that the port diameter is slightly different depending on the age.
On mine (indeterminate age) they are staggered diameter with the outside 2.10" and the inside 2.25". the transition occurs half way thru the baffle board.
The USPS mailing tubes are two tubes sleeved, inner tube is 2.125"and outer tube is 2.25. After removing the stock tubes and cutting the new ones I was able to finesse (pound) the 2.10" inner USPS tube from the front and then slide the 2.25" outer USPS tube on it from the rear. The 2.25" tube snugs nicely into the 2.25" port from the rear. Glued it all up, just need to paint them black.
When I go in the instrument input (with my pedalboard, including a preamp dialed in for my tone) that's where I start things off, then adjust as needed for the room/environment.
Last edited:
