Varathane WB poly will NOT get you that ambered look so I would go with something oil based, or use the WB poly over something else.
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First Build - "Lucifer"
- Thread starter TerribleTim68
- Start date
Can you spray it over oil? I have much concerns about clear coats sticking to oil finishes. What with it being oil and all.
Can you spray it over oil? I have much concerns about clear coats sticking to oil finishes. What with it being oil and all.
The typical answer to water based poly over oil incompatibility is to spray a layer of shellac over the oil, but I have never tried that. I have used oil or WB poly but never both on the same instrument.
EDIT: Since you mentioned that you don't have a spray setup you might want to consider a wipe-on oil based finish. That generally won't get you the build to the point of being able to polish so you might need to look at a spray setup. Honestly, it isn't that expensive or hard to spray your own finish, but you do need to practice a bit.
EDIT2: This can get you started for $15 (assuming you have a compressor):
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Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking. I'd love to just shoot a test piece using 2K, but the problem with 2K is, with those spray cans, once you crack them you can't just spray a test piece and then store it for another project if you don't like it.
I purchased a tin of Osmo Polyx hard wax oil based on what I've heard from other TB members. Have not yet used it, but it's used on flooring, so it should last a long time.
I was mostly sold on how easy it is to refinish as needed - don't need to strip or sand off the old finish first.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho...KsM2uUkgW1DJMwQQENfExtJxi0Y3aOsxoCj2sQAvD_BwE
I have sprayed ProFinisher (the water based finish “we” were using before Bruce turned us on to Varathane Ultimate) over TruOil and it was fine so I wouldn’t anticipate any issues with Varathane. You will want to make sure the TruOil is dry first so sitting for a couple of weeks minimum before using the VU. I have sprayed VU over shellac with no issues.
If you don’t want to mix and spray a color for an amber tint you could use a vintage maple type stain or get “honey amber” from Transtint and make a weak batch and use that or a leather dye that’s an appropriate color and dye the wood first.
Yes, Varathane Ultimate comes in a spray can but I’d try it before you invest in several cans because it’s very different from spraying it out of a gun.
I have no experience with 2K finishes so no help there except I’d think it would adhere fine over dried shellac.
If you don’t want to mix and spray a color for an amber tint you could use a vintage maple type stain or get “honey amber” from Transtint and make a weak batch and use that or a leather dye that’s an appropriate color and dye the wood first.
Yes, Varathane Ultimate comes in a spray can but I’d try it before you invest in several cans because it’s very different from spraying it out of a gun.
I have no experience with 2K finishes so no help there except I’d think it would adhere fine over dried shellac.
I would also say, don't sleep on the solarez stuff. Plus there are plenty of decent rattle cans that can provide a great long lasting finish.
It's not that I don't "want" to mix and spray tinted clears. I'm just not set up for it. I don't have a spray gun setup at all, so anything I do has to either be hand applied or from a rattle can.
I have a lot of concerns about the longevity of hand applied oils. Thus my asking.
I'm also moderately interested in that "Solarez "I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer" since I see so many people on here using it with great results. But I have zero experience with it. So far, all I've ever done for finishes are swirl paints and topping them with 2K sprayed from a can.
I have a lot of concerns about the longevity of hand applied oils. Thus my asking.
I'm also moderately interested in that "Solarez "I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer" since I see so many people on here using it with great results. But I have zero experience with it. So far, all I've ever done for finishes are swirl paints and topping them with 2K sprayed from a can.
I could have worded that better then “want” I suppose. I didn’t mean to imply anything. Working with what it sounds like you’re familiar with you might want to dye the body with a honey amber then spray 2K clear over it.
I got a small lamp off of Ebay for like $20. There are a few simple rules when applying, but it isn't anything you can't handleYeah, I also have concerns about the Solarez being UV curing. I guess then I'd need some sort of UV bulb setup. I live in the PNW, where it literally rains 14 months out of the year. I'm not setting it outside to cure.
The only knock I’ve heard on the Solarez, it’s water clear, so no ambering effect. Any tint you add can mess with the UV light penetration. That could be overcome by staining the wood, of course. The whole concept appeals to me, but I haven’t worked up the nerve to try it yet.
So I keep kind of coming back to this, since I kind of know what to expect from tru oil, plus the fact I can get this in a can. I may just grab some and try it on a scrap piece, I think my local depot of homes has it. Just curious how "hard" the finish is compared to 2K. One of the things I like about 2K is the fact that it is kind of ding resistant being so hard once fully cured.
OH! Speaking of that dang router bit. Let's recap, it's an Amana top bearing 1/4" shank, 3/8" diameter, 1/2" "tall" bit. So, rough measurements here. The overall length of this little guy is 2". 1/2" of that is cutter height, then your bearing, leaves "roughly" 1-1/4" of shank length. How are you guys cutting cavities that need a depth of...say...1-1/4"? My router collet starts to poke out below the base at that depth. How do you get down in there that far? Or did I order the wrong dang bit?
Multiple depth passes
EDIT: Sigh, should have read more carefully. Yes, if you needed to do a 1.25" cavity then you would need to have only 0.75" of the shank chucked in the router. If that's too little for the bit (sometimes minimum shank is marked on the side) then you need a longer bit.
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I’ve done a couple basses in Tru-Oil, it looks great, but not too durable. Bruce suggested Minwax Water Base Oil Modified wipe on poly as an ambering Varathane alternative. I’ll let you know how it goes…..eventually.
On the bit, I assume you are taking the template off and using the upper part of the cavity walls to guide the bearing? Still too short? Might need a collet extender, probably cheaper than a longer bit.
On the bit, I assume you are taking the template off and using the upper part of the cavity walls to guide the bearing? Still too short? Might need a collet extender, probably cheaper than a longer bit.
Yeah, but like I said, it gets to a point where my router collet starts sticking out past the base of my router and the bit is still not at the needed depth. That was the problem I had with the control cavity, I had to cheat the shank out so far to get the depth I needed without my router collet sticking out that the bit actually vibrated out of the collet due to how far out it was. This is the Amana 45475, I'm wondering if I shouldn't have got the Amana 47224, which has a longer cutting length.
Yup, that's the method. Use the "template" to get down enough that the bearing can then ride on the inside of the actual body wood, then remove template and let the router base sit on the body itself. How deep can you get that bit to go?
Yes, sorry, I misread your post. I thought you meant bearing but you actually said collet. The easy answer is a longer bit.
I would never add tint to Solarez. You're playing a dangerous game with compatibility and cure rate and a host of other issues.
