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Fodera Club Part XIX

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#22
curt basner said:
My forthcoming bass is one of those with a walnut body (well, walnut 'wings') on an alder tone block. I was going for real warmth, and this is what Jason suggested. I don't know that we ever discussed the idea of a walnut tone block as well. Speaking just for myself, one of the reasons I liked the idea of a walnut body was simply that I love the look of walnut. And having a contrasting tone block, once again, visually, is a btter look. Not sure i would have gone walnut through and through, even if the concept had been brought up. I even went with walnut stringers...though MAYBE I'd have done something a little more unique if I'd thought about it more...again, the stringers being COMPLETELY aesthetic, and not affecting tone at all... But the walnut stringers will certainly create a nice 'tie' to the back of the bass...

As far as a walnut the block with another body wood, not sure I've ever seen that in the Newborns before.
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I'm still very confused with walnut. I've heard Jason say it's warm and a Fodera trend seems to be often coupled with an alder tone block and alder is very warm sounding by itself. I've also heard Joey compare it with ash saying it has a similar punch. I'm just curious why you really don't see any walnut tone blocks....talk about aesthetics! I think that look would be striking!
 
#23
We offer three sets of dual coils. Our own wound 60's and 70's and then Duncan Dual Coils. From warmest to brightest they go Fodera 60's, Duncan Dual Coils, Fodera 70's. 90% of Customs go with Duncans (and that's what I spec on my own basses). We will steer your towards one of the others on a custom build if we think the tone you are looking for warrants it.

The E5S and M4S sport Fodera 60's Duals (in 70's spacing!) and the MGS has Duncans...

Cheers,

Jason

curt basner said:
Well, I'd never noticed that spec before, but now you have me wondering. I expect that if there are different winds for those Dual Coils, they would end up picking the right winds for the build that's happening. I'm looking for a warmer, deeper type of tone than one would normally associate with Fodera, hence the flat wounds, my wood selection, and the 60s spacing. Interesting, and thanks for pointing that out!
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#24
It's all a question of tonal balance and Ash is generally balanced better with Alder than Walnut....

J

bassdoubler said:
you know you see a LOT of walnut bodies with other tone block woods, and I've even seen a few walnut body/walnut tone block Foderas, but not too many with JUST walnut tone blocks. I.e. ash body and walnut block, etc. What's up with that? Is there a tone thing going on I'm not aware of with walnut as a tone block wood?
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#26
Walnut is warm, but punchy like Ash. Alder is warm with more bloom to the overall sound (at least IMHO). The tone block needs to balance the overall tone AND provide some sex appeal - visual interest, SO, since we only really regularly use one light colored body wood (Ash) and since Walnut and Ash have some similarities tone-wise (i.e. a percussive nature to the way the notes sound), we tend to not pair Ash body blocks with a Walnut Tone Block 00 not that we couldn't, it's just that the tone of the instrument is more complex with Alder (or Mahogany)...

Cheers,

J


bassdoubler said:
I'm still very confused with walnut. I've heard Jason say it's warm and a Fodera trend seems to be often coupled with an alder tone block and alder is very warm sounding by itself. I've also heard Joey compare it with ash saying it has a similar punch. I'm just curious why you really don't see any walnut tone blocks....talk about aesthetics! I think that look would be striking!
Click to expand...
 
#27
Yeah, me, Vinny and Joey too! LOL! The reality is that within every kind of wood there is great variety and everything that we talk about is in terms of generalities. But take Ash. We can build an 8.5 pound bass with Ash (BTW, we generally DON'T use Ash that light) or a 14 pound bass with Ash...they will sound INCREDIBLY different even though they are both Ash...

Cheers,

J

iwearpumas said:
I wish I understood the way sound travels through all wood.
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#29
Just Thumpin' said:
Walnut is warm, but punchy like Ash. Alder is warm with more bloom to the overall sound (at least IMHO). The tone block needs to balance the overall tone AND provide some sex appeal - visual interest, SO, since we only really regularly use one light colored body wood (Ash) and since Walnut and Ash have some similarities tone-wise (i.e. a percussive nature to the way the notes sound), we tend to not pair Ash body blocks with a Walnut Tone Block 00 not that we couldn't, it's just that the tone of the instrument is more complex with Alder (or Mahogany)...

Cheers,

J
Click to expand...

Thanks Jason, that makes sense. Any recent Alder or Mahogany bodies with Walnut tone blocks? I'd love to see/hear that....

EDIT: Damn, I'm too late! haha....have a great time!
 
#30
ImageUploadedByTalkBass1365816021.536168.jpgImageUploadedByTalkBass1365816030.633139.jpg
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#40
The action on my Monarch 4 Deluxe is too high.
The truss rod is in reverse (the nut is lifted up towards the fretboard). I can completely unscrew the nut (in fact remove it) even overnight and the action is still too high. That means reverse the truss rod right?

So I use the tool as instructed on the PDF but there is no way I can pull the truss rod out! Regardless of whether strings are tuned or relaxed ... I mean I did not even try to use force (I'm shared sh*tless).

So what's the magic trick?
 
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