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Fodera Club

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You might want to check the trim pot and see what the output level is. Based on your post, it sounds like the trim pot is boosted all the way up. It is really hot when it is maxed out and it will clipping can occur. When it is all the way down, the output level should be equal to the output level in passive mode.


Just got my new (to me) Monarch Wooten Classic from fedex today. I'm noticing that the Pope pre is really hot and that without much boost, the bass's signal really jumps and I can pretty easily push the bass to a level of clipping on my rig. It sounds fantastic flat/passive and a little bit of boost/cut with the pre can really shape the tone nicely. I also noticed that the Master Tone, treble roll-off is very subtle...much more so than on other basses I've played.

The Monarch I just got is in pristine shape, but is a bit older and has a Pope pre from a few revisions ago. I'm going to try some fresh batteries tomorrow, but I've played Fodera's in the past (but not in a few years) and vaguely remember this being the case with the basses I played. Does this sound normal or do I need to bring this bass in for a checkup?
 
Just got my new (to me) Monarch Wooten Classic from fedex today. I'm noticing that the Pope pre is really hot and that without much boost, the bass's signal really jumps and I can pretty easily push the bass to a level of clipping on my rig. It sounds fantastic flat/passive and a little bit of boost/cut with the pre can really shape the tone nicely. I also noticed that the Master Tone, treble roll-off is very subtle...much more so than on other basses I've played.

The Monarch I just got is in pristine shape, but is a bit older and has a Pope pre from a few revisions ago. I'm going to try some fresh batteries tomorrow, but I've played Fodera's in the past (but not in a few years) and vaguely remember this being the case with the basses I played. Does this sound normal or do I need to bring this bass in for a checkup?


From what Joey and Mike Pope have told me is that Mike has his preamps set at the optimum sound with everything flat. He prefers to not have to boost any freqs. If I remember correctly, there is a a little knob (can't remember what it is actually called) that you can turn to lower the output of the preamp. But then again, batteries might help too.
You know the deal though, no pics=no bass!!!
 
when i opened the cavity i didn't notice the trim pot although i didn't really look a lot. got a picture?

i'll snap one tomorrow when i replace the batteries, but i've already heard from others that they've noticed that the pre can get pretty hot on the monarchs (which is what i remembered)...just wanted to make sure there were no issues with the new bass. plays fantastic!
 
The trim pot on the older Pope pre's would be hidden under one of the circuit boards. On the newer pre's you can see it immediately.

when i opened the cavity i didn't notice the trim pot although i didn't really look a lot. got a picture?

i'll snap one tomorrow when i replace the batteries, but i've already heard from others that they've noticed that the pre can get pretty hot on the monarchs (which is what i remembered)...just wanted to make sure there were no issues with the new bass. plays fantastic!
 
Just got my new (to me) Monarch Wooten Classic from fedex today. I'm noticing that the Pope pre is really hot and that without much boost, the bass's signal really jumps and I can pretty easily push the bass to a level of clipping on my rig. It sounds fantastic flat/passive and a little bit of boost/cut with the pre can really shape the tone nicely. I also noticed that the Master Tone, treble roll-off is very subtle...much more so than on other basses I've played.

The Monarch I just got is in pristine shape, but is a bit older and has a Pope pre from a few revisions ago. I'm going to try some fresh batteries tomorrow, but I've played Fodera's in the past (but not in a few years) and vaguely remember this being the case with the basses I played. Does this sound normal or do I need to bring this bass in for a checkup?

There is an adjustment that can easily be made to the Pope Pre that adjusts the level of boost. PM "The Pontif," aka Mike Pope. He can easily explain it. There is nothing wrong with you bass, Post some pictures!
 
when i opened the cavity i didn't notice the trim pot although i didn't really look a lot. got a picture?

i'll snap one tomorrow when i replace the batteries, but i've already heard from others that they've noticed that the pre can get pretty hot on the monarchs (which is what i remembered)...just wanted to make sure there were no issues with the new bass. plays fantastic!

I think you have a serious problem so perhaps you should just sell me the bass at 1/2 price...:D
 
I had the pleasure of playing this at the Fodera booth at NAMM. Quilted-Spalted Maple over Mahogany with a GORGEOUS Brazilian Kingwood fingerboard. One of the finest looking and finest playing Monarchs I have ever laid my hands on. Oh yeah, and despite my not historically being an EMG fan, this thing sounds KILLER...the woods and the new Pope/Fodera Preamp, perhaps?

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now that i've been really looking at fodera pics and really checkin their site, i've noticed that there seems to be 2 different knob configurations for the 3 band pope. does the knob config signify any time period for the bass or is that just an option they offer at build time? also, anyone know if there is an approximation on which serial numbers come from which years? i'm 1707 and curious about when this beauty was built.
 
The Koa 4-string Monarch that was just posted has the "Emperor" control layout which has the three tone controls on a diagonal. The "Monarch" layout places them horizontally across the bottom of the bass. You can order them either way...

As far as serial numbers...they started building in 1983 and they are almost up to 3000...on AVERAGE around 115 instruments per year...you can figure out within a few years when a Fodera was produced...
 
Does that mean the difference between Emperors and Monarchs is the control layout? I have always wondered that since it seems like everything about a Fodera, from scale length to woods to electronics, all seem to be flexible options for all models.

My serial number starts with an "M" which I assume indicates that it is a Monarch. I think that the headstock is bigger on the Monarchs too.
 
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