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G&L Club Part 2

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There's really no "magic" in the setup guide, other than recommended factory pickup heights.
For all I know, G&L may recommend different heights now, that manual, as Ken notes, is ooooold.

(thanks bbe, for keeping current)
 
Thanks, Ken. I was mainly curious about the suggested pickup height setup. I looked at the stuff in the guitarsbyleo.com Gallery and found some old stuff from the early days.

I've been setting up my own instruments since I was 15, so I know how to dial them in for ME. But I'm always curious to see what the "factory spec" is.

For pickup height, I use a precision tuner (Peterson) and adjust the pickups to the height where they don't have any noticeable magnetic pull on the strings. It's tedious, but the result is clean, clear notes all the way up the FB. Chords have distinct, clear note separation, and fills and runs never need any compression to cut through the mix. Obviously, there's a lot more to the great sound than setup, but I found that getting the pickups adjusted fixed a lot of weirdness.

Thanks for the link. I'll check it out.



Not Chef here...

There isn't really a current factory spec for bass setup. OTOH, there is nothing special involved. Just set to your personal specification and you're good to go.

If you have a burning desire to see the original guide from the old days, look here. This covers both guitar and bass and 3-bolt Precision Tilt necks. Using this guide, and substituting shims for tilt adjustment, should get you in the ballpark and ready for fine tuning.

Ken...
 
Howdy Club-ers:
You've recently seen my "Pretty sure it's a BABP LE2500K" bass and some reviews.
The folks at G&L CS tell me that "limited edition insturments should have a "12 of 20" type serial number, and not a CLFXXXXX type serial number; such as mine does.

If you're a BABP LE owner, could you please post here, or, pm me whether your serial number is a CLF type, or a "12 of 20" type?
And, if you're a BABP LE2500K owner, I'd be really curious how close your CFLXXXXX is to my CLF49162 number...

thanks for any help;
alan
 
Hi Chef,
I've got two BABP LE's.

The first one I bought is an L2000K and has the serial number CLF46767. It came with a lot of case candy including a cable, polishing cloth etc. On the invoice from Guitar Man it states that it was #2 of 22.

The second one is an L1000K. It's serial number is CLF52027. There was no case candy and no printed invoice. I have lost the emailed invoice but I don't remember anything on it saying what number of the run it was.

In any case, both of them have CLF serial numbers
 
Rosanne:
thanks!
What I see here, potentially, is G&L Cust Svc being confused on the BABP "paperwork" saying "12 of 20," and the actual headstock serial number still being a CLF number.

I'd sure appreciate hearing from any other BABP LE owners, regardless of model; but again, most curious about LE2500's...

thanks!
 
DA XL170 nickels are the factory string, and they do sound nice on there.

The used to use SIT Powerwound Nickle, but that was some time ago now.
 
How pray tell, does one join the G&L club? and is there some way to store the threads I look at so I don't have to search for them every time I log in?
As you can tell I'm very new at this thanks.
BassBrad, I love the zoom B9.1ut Just starting to get into it. thanks:bassist:
 
hello, i'm not a g&l owner (yet) but might soon be getting an early '80s L-1000, it's got the sunburst finish over mahogany with a skunkstripe maple neck and rosewood fingerboard. it's got the 3-bolt neck and the bridge is chrome as opposed to the black. can somebody school me on these basses and is there some things i should look out for on these models if there were any counterfeits?
 
Never seen a counterfeit, myself.

With the 3 bolt microtilt neck, it's imprtant to make sure it's been properly adjusted.
Raising the microtilt alot, and then over-torquing the neck can result in warping the end of the neck up, making the upper registers play out as though they need a massive fret job. Sometimes fret dress can fix this if it's not massive. Otherwise, you may have to rip the end frets out, plane the board, and refret. This requires someone who knows what they're doing with this specific setup.

Also, over time, the wood in the trussrod route can compress. The leaves the threads hanging out past the wood, with no more room to adjust. This is not uncommon (but not common either, just happens based on the hardness of the maple and how hard the trussrod has been used), and easily remedied by running 2-4 washers down the rod to take up the space of the compressed wood. At a minimum, make sure the trussrod adjuster bullet spins easily, and has the proper effect.

The controls are volume, treble cut, and bass cut.
The mini switch is a coil tap for dual parallel, single coil, and single coil with bass boost.
This setup actually allows for -a lot- of different and highly usable tones. Good stuff.

Some of these are quite heavy, weighing 10+lbs. This may or may not concern you.

The original case should be a black tolex G&G case, and is also pretty nice. Minus points for missing/wrong case.

Stuff this old, take a good look at the frets, especially in the lwoer register. Aggressive players+roundwound strings may have worn troughs in the frets. Perhaps dress-able, perhaps not. Fret replacement ~$250, fret dress ~$75.

Seems like average retail, good playable shape, correct case ought to be in the $800 range.

ymmv...
 
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