Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
G&L Club Part 4
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
- Start date
-
- Tags
- club
- Status
RB,
Beautiful bass. The SB12 is nice too.
Think the Clear Green is mo' betta looking than Greenburst.
I currently like the DR Flats on my SB1.
IMO medium tension. Great sound.
Have used in the past DAds Chromes, Roto77LE, and TI JFs.
TIs are low tension,
DAds are med hi,
Rotos are hi tension.
Good Hunting on flats.
jamie
Beautiful bass. The SB12 is nice too.
Think the Clear Green is mo' betta looking than Greenburst.
I currently like the DR Flats on my SB1.
IMO medium tension. Great sound.
Have used in the past DAds Chromes, Roto77LE, and TI JFs.
TIs are low tension,
DAds are med hi,
Rotos are hi tension.
Good Hunting on flats.
jamie
My new to me SB-1. Believe it's about a '96 from the serial, but you would swear it just came from the factory. I've been loving this thing more every time I pick it up.
Finally got the SB-12 up and running too -- great pair! I might just have to try out some flats just to see what all the hype is
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Chef
In Memoriam
I recently played a bass with Ernie ball falts on it.
They sounded "just as aggressive and cutting" as the DA's, but with a more medium tension. Nice like that.
They sounded "just as aggressive and cutting" as the DA's, but with a more medium tension. Nice like that.
Chef
In Memoriam
I've become a big fan of the GHS Precision Flats, especially on my L2000- very comfortable tension (as someone who played on the tight-tight Rotosounds for a long time, then tried to get along with the rubberband-like TIs for a while) with all sorts of nice vintage mid thump and great articulation. I believe they are identical to the Lakland flatwounds. I liked the D'addario's alot when new, but when they mellowed they seemed "blah" to me in comparison to the GHS and TI's. Coulda partially been the basses I played then- the old G&Ls just seem to bring the magic out of flats!
Glad you got it all working- I figured the switches were the problem!
After doing similar mods to my L2000, I find I generally just stick with the "single coil" and "single coil with bass boost" (or "series with treble shunt" if you will) options. They tonally mix well with parallel and series, but then you don't get the hum-cancelling effect of two singles. Generally I have one pickup in single coil and the other in single coil with bass boost- there is still a bit of hum in this setting, but much less than a singled single coil, so completely manageable. Those pickups sound so freaking huge in single coil that its a real shame it wasn't always an option!
After doing similar mods to my L2000, I find I generally just stick with the "single coil" and "single coil with bass boost" (or "series with treble shunt" if you will) options. They tonally mix well with parallel and series, but then you don't get the hum-cancelling effect of two singles. Generally I have one pickup in single coil and the other in single coil with bass boost- there is still a bit of hum in this setting, but much less than a singled single coil, so completely manageable. Those pickups sound so freaking huge in single coil that its a real shame it wasn't always an option!
I rewired my on/on/on switches and it all works! Now I have independent series/parallel/inner/outer for each pickup. I can have the neck in series and the bridge in either inner/outer single or parallel or series and I can also somewhat cop an MM/J tone by having the bridge in series and neck in single. Because I used resistors for the series jump wires there's now no noticeable volume jump between series and parallel. The only noticeable change is the dual volume control - the neck series switch is a push/pull 500k tone control which has brightened thing up just enough. Passive always sounded a little too dark to me but active was just a little to brassy - full up on the tone control now gives just enough brightness and brings out more growl.
Here's a pic of the finished product:
Now I'll call it "The Swiss Army Knife".
Love the SB-1s!
DR flats and a B-15.
jamie
Didn't even know I was a purple fan until I saw this. Man. That rawks.
Those rounded MFD P pickups are a comfortable place to rest your thumb for the night.
Well...
Things didn't work out like I had thought, and I have discovered that mixing series with other settings doesn't so much sound like a combination of the two. I've ripped it all out and am going for inner singles/parallel/outer singles.
Before changing the electronics in the ASAT (and the L siblings) you could try to upgrade the caps in the preamp and also the ones soldered to the pots... This actually gives quite a LOT more clarity to the sound and the high frequencies opens up nicely...
The most important ones to upgrade are the ones directly in the signal path: Those are C2 and C3 in the schematic. The original caps are very low quality for signal coupling, and replacing them with good quality polypropylene types make a noticable difference.
You can see the new caps in the picture below: Yellow cap on the input (C3) and the larger 10uF output cap (C2) that is way to big to be on the preamp board, but fit's nicely into the cavity.
I waiting for delivery of the rest of the caps to upgrade the rest of the preamp section and also the bleeding caps on the pick up's and pots. I'll will bring an update on how the improve the sound...
I don't quite get this. If the contact point "3" is hard-wired to ground, what will the treble boost achieve?
The 10K and 10M resistors are wired on the passive/active/treble boost switch. I am pretty sure it is a typo and that the 10K should have a '5' at it right hand end.
Yup, its a typo. But come on, that drawing is only a decade or so old. You need to give them some time to fix it.
All these great pictures...I need to take my basses to Sears for a photoshoot and get with the program. The SB-1 in front of the wood pile...Classy!!
At this point I have them wired inner/parallel/outer - is there a way that I could do the "single coil with bass boost" with these? How do I do that option?
Here is a handy (and authentic) Ken Baker wiring page for L series basses: Passive L Series Circuits
The "single coil with bass boost" is also known as "OMG" or "oh my god" mode. It is the original version of the G&L series mode, and the only difference between it and the normal series mode is the addition of a .1uf capacitor to ground on the series connection of the switch (so you need to have the series option to get the "omg" mode). You can get series(or OMG if you include the capacitors)/single coil/parallel by following the first wiring diagram on the above link using an on/on/on switch. On my L2000, I have the "OMG" capacitors on a push/pull pot so I can choose between normal series and "OMG", though I rarely use the normal series...
I've never tried wiring outer/series/inner, but I never found enough difference between inner and outer to feel the need for both.
FWIW, here's a link to an awesome document for how to do a handful of different wiring options for these basses. Go down to to the first post by "daveplaysbass" and download the second link on his post:
Link Removed
While you're at it, go check out that other forum- maybe we can bring back the G&L discussions over there!
Thanks to Ken Baker and DavePlaysBass as always for their work in designing and making these diagrams readily available on the net!
Here's what I said on a BBL thread about this:
So, this is the wiring diagram to get single/parallel/single coil with bass boost, right?
I've heard this modification described this way:
"Well, it basically takes one coil and runs it through the normal EQ circuit (the "single coil") and takes the second coil and shunts the high frequencies with a cap (the "bass boost").
I don't have sound clips, but it still allows for clarity on the top end but with a big low end. I couldn't tell as much of a difference on my L-1500 as I could on my L 2x00s, so I took it off the L-1500 but left it on the others.
The catch is that you will get some single-coil hum. If you do both pickups, I'd advise doing opposite coils - on both my L-2000 and L-2500, I have them set up so that their inner coils are the unaffected coils and the outer coils have the cap. That way, when both are on, there's no hum. (stock G&Ls with this mod use the bridge coil on both as the unaffected coil, and the neck side coil as the capped coil, so you will get hum when both are on.)"
Could I replace the series jumper wires with series normalization resistors and have this work?
How would I wire it so that I get inner singles/parallel/outer singles with bass boost?
- Status
Latest posts
-
-
The Official Gallien Krueger 400RB picture thread/fanclub- Latest: frank cucinotta
-
-
