• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

G&L Club Part 6

Status
Not open for further replies.
So I just picked up BArbacus' gold sparkle 2009 L2000 with K-switching and #8 neck. It's a sweet bass, my wife loves the color, and it's like having a brand new instrument.

I'm cheating a little and posting a pic from the for sale thread for now. It's pretty brilliant in the sun.

Anyway, I'm at least the 3rd TBer to own this instrument, but can pretty much guarantee it's here for the long haul. I've wanted a US L2000 since the late 1990s, and this is by far the lightest I've played.

Found a tribute in 2010 and played that for awhile, but it just made me want one with the #8 neck, k-switching, a little less weight and in a cool finish. This is definitely the trifecta. Or the quadfecta.
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByTalkBass1362624272.755521.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTalkBass1362624272.755521.jpg
    174 KB · Views: 252
Posting here on advice of a G&L Club member...

G&L L5500 - Mod EMGs from 9v to 18v?

...


Here are my questions...

1. Is the 9-18v upgrade safe for the EMGs in G&L?
2. Does anyone have experience with this mod? Does it really make a noticeable difference?
3. Are there any other mods or upgrades that you would recommend for the L5500?

Thanks in advance...

I stumbled across a review of the L5500 in an old Bass Player magazine. It describes the tone control circuit as an EMG BTC module. Being a stock EMG module, you should be able to run it at 18 Vdc. Couldn't hurt to confirm all that with EMG though.
 
I had a JB, the neck was a typical G&L #8. Jazz width, 12" radius, very nice slim neck. Feels a bit more modern than a vintage Jazz due to the flatter radius but otherwise it felt exactly like a very nice Jazz neck.
Mine was bit on the heavy side at 9.8 lbs, alder body. Sounded really great and the build quality was top notch.

goldJB_zpse750d712.gif

I like that color. :cool: Does it really have that greenish hue, or is that just an odd photo?
 
Thanks much Brad!

That's a darn sexy bass. I should have bought that one from you!

I have one coming my way in Fullerton Red.

You're very welcome, congrats on the new JB. I love Fullerton Red, such a great color.



So I just picked up BArbacus' gold sparkle 2009 L2000 with K-switching and #8 neck. It's a sweet bass, my wife loves the color, and it's like having a brand new instrument.
Anyway, I'm at least the 3rd TBer to own this instrument, but can pretty much guarantee it's here for the long haul. I've wanted a US L2000 since the late 1990s, and this is by far the lightest I've played.

That's a very special bass, it was ordered at the same time as the JB I posted, both from Matt DeSilva. Those were two of the very last made in the now discontinued color called Gold Metallic. I asked for as light as they could build and that's one of only two L-2000s I've had that were 8.5 lbs, all others have been heavier.



I like that color. :cool: Does it really have that greenish hue, or is that just an odd photo?

It really does have a greenish tint to it, that's one of the reasons I liked it so much. It's a bright, sparkly, greenish gold color.
 
I think after a LONG search for a VERY aggressive bass... I'm going to give a L-2500 a shot with a maple neck. I'm looking for super cut the mix not warm at all. I had an ASAT & that was a beast, wouldn't dare bring that to church... but with my current two basses
Bongo HH5
Sterling HH5 Mahogany
Those are surprisingly tame to the L2500 we go.
 
I think after a LONG search for a VERY aggressive bass... I'm going to give a L-2500 a shot with a maple neck. I'm looking for super cut the mix not warm at all. I had an ASAT & that was a beast, wouldn't dare bring that to church... but with my current two basses
Bongo HH5
Sterling HH5 Mahogany
Those are surprisingly tame to the L2500 we go.

i'd be genuinely surprised if the L2500 wasn't aggressive enough for you. those MFD's are pretty "in-your-face".
 
I'm feeling its going to do the trick. USUALLY my Sterling HH5 would be enough but the limited edition I have with Mahogany really warms it up. I can still get cut with the bridge pickup solo'd & lows cut but its not its natural nature you know?
Maple neck with a blueburst or natural... next one thats $400 shipped is mine :)
 
I think after a LONG search for a VERY aggressive bass... I'm going to give a L-2500 a shot with a maple neck. I'm looking for super cut the mix not warm at all. I had an ASAT & that was a beast, wouldn't dare bring that to church... but with my current two basses
Bongo HH5
Sterling HH5 Mahogany
Those are surprisingly tame to the L2500 we go.

You should take a look at the L1505. Great aggressive bass.
 
I'm a two pickup guy, i love playing off the neck pickup :bassist:

I had sent a check for $1500 for a used Warwick LTD before I found out the spacing was too small, got my cash back... I bet the G&L can do everything it can for a lot less.

FYI - the G&L is 17mm at the bridge. Not sure what the Warwick is, but it's not much less than that. EBMM is 17.5mm at the bridge.
 
Warwick's website said its spacing was 16 - 16.5mm spacing... I had people say they could adjust it higher but I couldn't confirm it with measurements before I lost out on the deal. I always though the G&L was 17.5mm... my bad
 
Warwick's website said its spacing was 16 - 16.5mm spacing... I had people say they could adjust it higher but I couldn't confirm it with measurements before I lost out on the deal. I always though the G&L was 17.5mm... my bad

Actually my USA L2500s both measure 17.3 with the tribute just a tiny bit narrower. If you tighten down the saddle squeezer that probably accounts for the missing mm or two. (Saddles were locked for above measurement)
 
I hope I am posting this in the right spot... kinda new to this forum.I have a bran new L2000 tobacco sunburst which is absolutly beautiful. It is stripped of everything except the machine heads. I want to build it as affordable as possable while retaining the value. Any suggestions??? Any help is appreciated.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts