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G&L Club Part 7

Fractions of an inch smaller than ⅛" don't really mean much to me, so I usually convert specs into millimeters if I want to understand something.

I only just bothered to work out what a difference to the neck specs G&L's published tolerance of +/- 0.015" actually means.

And wow, a potential difference of 0.030" between two necks is meaningful.

(For my fellow metricians: the standard neck can vary from 20.4mm to 21.2mm at the first fret and from 23.5mm to 24.3mm at the twelfth)

I'm translating this news into a hope that I might get a slightly thicker neck on my LB-100. Perhaps some extra coats of that gloss finish, as well, please :D

But perhaps when you order Empress you get a neck from the thin end of the pile?
 
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Hi guys,

I'm contemplating doing the K mod on my L2000 Tribby, looking at the wiring diagram etc it seems I need an ON/ON/ON 12 pin 3pdt mini toggle switch, but I'm struggling to find anything that gives all of the above, the nearest I've found is a 4 position.

Could someone please confirm the exact switch requirements and if possible where I can find one here in the U.K.?

Cheers.
 
Hi guys,

I'm contemplating doing the K mod on my L2000 Tribby, looking at the wiring diagram etc it seems I need an ON/ON/ON 12 pin 3pdt mini toggle switch, but I'm struggling to find anything that gives all of the above, the nearest I've found is a 4 position.

Could someone please confirm the exact switch requirements and if possible where I can find one here in the U.K.?

Cheers.

I've just been searching the forum a bit more on the subject and it looks like I need a 4PDT switch not the 3PDT which is probably why I've been struggling to find the switch on the net.
 
Which configuration did you go with?
Thanks

It was a Pro JZ3 VB 3B Chrome in my new G&L JB-5. (Yes, it was a perfect drop-in fit.) My count so far is two variable-Z drop-in J-Bass units and three modular units in Ibanez, Peavey, and Spector basses: one variable-Z, the other two not. The JB-5 installation took all of about 10 minutes after I finished copper-shielding the control cavity—and most of that time was trying to strip the darned cloth insulation off the G&L pickup wires. Programming the switch settings on this preamp was a novelty, and again dead simple.

Edit: VB 3B means volume/blend (as opposed to volume/volume) with a 3-band EQ: bass, mid, treble.
 
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@Ricky Rioli if I'm not mistaken, your SB-1 is made of Empress. How are you finding the weight and balance?

Plus, how long did it take to do Rocket -> yours?
It behaves much the same as my P and my BB do, both of which are over 9 lbs, albeit with thicker necks and heavier tuners.

I have just noticed that the upper horn on both the SB-1 and LB-100 is about ⅜" shorter than on the P, a tiny difference that is nonetheless enough to make me hold the bass in a significantly different way. But then I am stupidly sensitive to things like that.

Greg dispatched on a Tuesday. UPS tracking immediately gave an estimated delivery slot of the morning of the following Monday, and that's when it was delivered.
 
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I have just noticed that the upper horn on both the SB-1 and LB-100 is about ⅜" shorter than on the P, a tiny difference that is nonetheless enough to make me hold the bass in a significantly different way. But then I am stupidly sensitive to things like that.
Thanks to a helpful TBer on the hardware subforum, I now know that a Dunlop straplok on the upper horn will give me just the extension I want :)
 
I've just been searching the forum a bit more on the subject and it looks like I need a 4PDT switch not the 3PDT which is probably why I've been struggling to find the switch on the net.
The C&K part no that you need is 7411 or equivalent, your current switch is probably a 7401.

See page F-5
CK_7000_toggle_switches.pdf
 

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this any of your alls?
upload_2022-7-12_9-57-56.png
 
The C&K part no that you need is 7411 or equivalent, your current switch is probably a 7401.

See page F-5
CK_7000_toggle_switches.pdf

Thanks very much for the info, much appreciated.

Would you happen to know if anyone has posted a circuit diagram for using the inner coils as opposed to the outer one's? I read the other day that using the inner coils is the nearest you'll get to an SR tone, perhaps their position on the L2000 is nearest to the Stingray's pickup pole positions?
 

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