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G&L Club Part 7

I'd say Fat Beams are thick and clear, with some stainless crunch up top. They have lots of "life" and punch without sounding harsh at all, at least IMO. I like other DR types too, like Sunbeams and Pure Blues on J basses. I've never tried Hi-Beams, but I'm sure I will eventually.

For tone, I thought nickel Lo-Riders were fantastic on my old L-1500, but due to finger issues I stick with the more flexible round core variants now.

Totally understand the round core variants. Super stiff strings (hex core rounds, chromes) just really turn me off.

Sounds like I'll check a set of Lo-Riders next. Thanks!
 
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Totally understand the round core variants. Super stiff strings (hex core rounds, chromes) just really turn me off.

Sounds like I'll check a set of Lo-Riders next. Thanks!
I used nickel Lo-Riders on my L2500 and now all my roundwound basses, and to me they are super warm and also very versatile. I could be thumpy and rootsy, or I could dial in more modern spank. Another bonus IMHO (and I just put a new set on a bass last night) is they have an almost "broken in" quality right outta the package.
 
Totally understand the round core variants. Super stiff strings (hex core rounds, chromes) just really turn me off.

Sounds like I'll check a set of Lo-Riders next. Thanks!
Lo-Riders are great, but they are hex core. I believe Sunbeams are round core nickel Lo-Riders, and Hi Beams are round core Steel Lo-Riders.

I used nickel Lo-Riders on my L2500 and now all my roundwound basses, and to me they are super warm and also very versatile. I could be thumpy and rootsy, or I could dial in more modern spank. Another bonus IMHO (and I just put a new set on a bass last night) is they have an almost "broken in" quality right outta the package.
They sound great on the L2500!
 
Greg just listed this [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

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"It began life as a Custom Shop JB ..... They let me have it at Build To Order pricing ..... The neck is 3A Flame Maple ..... no idea how G&L broke down the price on this one, I just know the total they require me to show ..... Suffice to say, this bass should be at least $1000 more ..... This bass weighs 8.6 lbs."
 
Lo-Riders are great, but they are hex core. I believe Sunbeams are round core nickel Lo-Riders, and Hi Beams are round core Steel Lo-Riders.


They sound great on the L2500!
Agreed. If you like the Lo Riders sound but prefer a more flexible string, then Sunbeams are a great choice. It's been a while since I tried them, but I thought they sounded a lot like nickel Lo Riders but with a noticeably more flexible feel. I prefer a stiffer string so I use the Lo Riders, but the Sunbeams also sound great.
 
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27299879[/URL], member: 5769"]Agreed, if you like the Lo Riders sound but prefer a more flexible string, then Sunbeams are a great choice. It's been a while since I tried them, but I thought they sounded a lot like nickel Lo Riders but with a noticeably more flexible feel. I prefer a stiffer string so I use the Lo Riders, but the Sunbeams also sound great.
On Sparkle: @smeet
The low riders are hex core, the sunbeams, fat beams (nps), high beams (ss)round core.
The low riders are a little scooped in the mids, and zingier on top.
The beams more flexible feeling due to the round core, and more mid warmth.
I tried Dunlop super brights, both NPS and stainless, and they have solid midrange, a good feel and long life.
I ran several flats on the L2500, my favorites were the EB cobalts.
Close seconds were labella low tension flats.

if you want spank and clank?
Rotos, or EB cobalt rounds are recipes for success there.

DR Strings are always consistently good, and the pure blues worked well on that bass too.

** note if you want more top end, raise the pickups closer to the strings, I set them low in the body to tame the output in that area (to fit my tastes)
 
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On Sparkle: @smeet
The low riders are hex core, the sunbeams, fat beams round core.
The low riders are a little scooped in the mids, and zingier on top.
The beams more flexible feeling due to the round core, and more mid warmth.
I tried Dunlop super brights, both NPS and stainless, and they have solid midrange, a good feel and long life.
I ran several flats on the L2500, my favorites were the EB cobalts.
Close seconds were labella low tension flats.

if you want spank and clank?
Rotos, or EB cobalt rounds are recipes for success there.

DR Strings are always consistently good, and the pure blues worked well on that bass too.

** note if you want more top end, raise the pickups closer to the strings, I set them low in the body to tame the output in that area (to fit my tastes)

Excellent manifesto. Love DR's but find Sunbeams kind of meh. For flats those EB Cobalts are the ticket even over TI jazz and half the price. I've had very string mentioned except Dunlops on most every G&L model other than a JB. For Lo-Riders I'd recommend one gauge lighter than your normal. Smokin' on my El Toros.
 
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Lo-Riders are great, but they are hex core. I believe Sunbeams are round core nickel Lo-Riders, and Hi Beams are round core Steel Lo-Riders.

All these years of playing and I never thought much about strings. I've been using Slinkys for years on my Stingray. I acquired a 98 L1500 a couple years ago and have been using it ever since. I contacted the seller later because I loved the strings he'd put on them. He told me DR Sunbeams. I love the springyness? So roundcore feel? Nickel? Never tried SS or anything else. I'd love to hear more details on the different DRs.


They sound great on the L2500!
 
Never thought much about strings. I've been using Slinkys for years on my Stingray. I acquired a 98 L1500 a couple years ago and have been using it ever since. I contacted the seller later because I loved the strings he'd put on them. He told me DR Sunbeams. I love the springyness? So roundcore feel? Nickel? Never tried SS or anything else. I'd love to hear more details on the different DRs.
 
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Okay the black one is here.

This black one does not play well at all, and arrived with excess neck relief. I got the neck straight via a lot of rod tweakage, but used up quite a bit of rod travel in the process, although there is still some travel left. At this point it frets out badly everywhere above the 11th fret. The fret rocker reveals at least 7 high frets in various locations. It will need a total fret leveling to make it playable.

Still, I'm keeping the thing because for the price I paid, and how great these little basses sound, it's worth my time to make it right. Since I'll be doing the leveling...

Update: Change of plans, decided that me leveling the frets would be okay...but only on a bass that had normal truss rod travel left for future adjustments. That was not the case with this bass, so I contacted G&L for a return or neck repair/replacement. They replaced the neck with a good one, which in addition to having normal relief and plenty more truss travel in reserve, it doesn't need any fret leveling. Just needs the nut slots deepened a tad.

Surprisingly, turn around time was 3 weeks from initial email contact, to repaired arrival. Interestingly, this new neck isn't stamped "2" on the headstock. In the end, I saved some bench work, wound up with a flawless "A" stock bass for a bargain price. So yay!
 
Excellent manifesto. Love DR's but find Sunbeams kind of meh. For flats those EB Cobalts are the ticket even over TI jazz and half the price. I've had very string mentioned except Dunlops on most every G&L model other than a JB. For Lo-Riders I'd recommend one gauge lighter than your normal. Smokin' on my El Toros.

I will second your opinion on the Cobalt flats. I have a set on my '91 L2K fretless and there are not many flats can can wring out highs like that set. It's a great match for the bass.
 
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I always bring two basses to every gig and almost always give both at least one set of playing time (our usual gig is four sets). I do it primarily so I have a backup but, since I bring two, I may as well play them both.

I'm primarily a Stingray guy and generally bring one of my two Stingray 5HH's and then another bass and last Saturday was no exception. I brought my #1 Stingray and my L-2500. But, just to do something, I used the L-2500 four all four sets.

I was really happy with it sounded in general, but that bass through my G-K 1091-RBII head gave me a really satisfying growly tone that worked well on our louder classic rock songs and contemporary blues songs. We had quite a few musician friends in the crowd that night, including a couple of other bassists, and I got quite a few compliments on my tone.

That was the first time I can remember using it for a full four sets but, on gigs where we can get a little louder than usual, I'm going to have to do that again, especially paired with that head. They're a great match.

Unfortunately, this is the only picture I've seen posted so far.
A guitarist friend of our keys player and his wife came to see us and took this selfie with us in the background. Waaaay in the background. :laugh:
59FC5B7A-AC39-45DC-A860-88AFAA865156.jpeg
 
I posted another thread about this base and it was suggested I post here.

I'm really thinking of grabbing this bass but am not sure if it's a great deal or not. I'm pretty new to the bass world. I know it's not a clf research.

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thoughts? I'm in no hurry. It just seemed like a good deal. If you think it is, please don't buy it in front of me lol.

CLF1704160
 
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