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G&L Club Part 7

USA Kiloton 5, brand new, NOS (2017) from a retailer in Germany, swamp ash body, maple F/B, Clear Red, wood body binding. Best price ever.
I'm so excited: an MFD humbucker at the Stingray sweet spot on an SB-2 body!
NBD! and PLEK'd!
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However, being from 2017, the case has the D tuning peg issue (top picture), even more than with my JB-5. Have these cases been designed for 5-string basses with a 3+2 headstock?
 
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Well, I spontaneously tacked a set of DR Fat Beams onto an Amazon order my wife was doing last night. I've used them on an L-2000 in the past and really liked them, so I went with what I know, at least as a starting point. It dawned on me yesterday that the roundwound strings I've always liked more have been stainless steel, strings that I'm less fond of have been nickel, and that's probably a big part of the reason I find the factory XLs underwhelming. Kinda funny that I never really gave it much thought before. So I'm gonna see how the Fat Beams go on the SB-2T.
 
Thanks y'all

I sold my USA M2500 during the pandemic due to financial stress and really regretted it. I was never a huge fan of the neck thickness though so now thinking of getting a tribute M2500 and have a custom neck made locally. I always liked the saddle lock bridge which is why I inquired

My Stingray Special 5 is my main bass nowadays but I want that M2500 sound too!
I'm a 4-string player and I recently went a little crazy with the M-2000's. I found a Tribute just before a New Year's party we played - it worked great and also has the saddle lock feature on the bridge. When I heard that the US versions have a little more chunk to their necks and are typically lighter than the Tributes, I went out and also got one of those thinking that this could be the "other" bass I've been looking for to compliment my passive P/J for the long term.

After setting up both basses with my favorite strings, playing them for several weeks, and playing a full gig with each one, I ended up returning the US model despite it having an ebony fretboard (I love that stuff!!) and weighing in at about a half pound lighter than the Tribute. The US model just didn't give me anything "better" than the Tribute (the US model was also at least a full pound heavier than I'd prefer).

If you can get a neck made to go onto a Tribute M-2500, I'd bet that rig could give you a whole lotta perma-grin.
 
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I'm a 4-string player and I recently went a little crazy with the M-2000's. I found a Tribute just before a New Year's party we played - it worked great and also has the saddle lock feature on the bridge. When I heard that the US versions have a little more chunk to their necks and are typically lighter than the Tributes, I went out and also got one of those thinking that this could be the "other" bass I've been looking for to compliment my passive P/J for the long term.

After setting up both basses with my favorite strings, playing them for several weeks, and playing a full gig with each one, I ended up returning the US model despite it having an ebony fretboard (I love that stuff!!) and weighing in at about a half pound lighter than the Tribute. The US model just didn't give me anything "better" than the Tribute (the US model was also at least a full pound heavier than I'd prefer).

If you can get a neck made to go onto a Tribute M-2500, I'd bet that rig could give you a whole lotta perma-grin.

Thanks for sharing your experience! Never played the tribute but had the US model for awhile so curious to compare
 
Well, I spontaneously tacked a set of DR Fat Beams onto an Amazon order my wife was doing last night. I've used them on an L-2000 in the past and really liked them, so I went with what I know, at least as a starting point. It dawned on me yesterday that the roundwound strings I've always liked more have been stainless steel, strings that I'm less fond of have been nickel, and that's probably a big part of the reason I find the factory XLs underwhelming. Kinda funny that I never really gave it much thought before. So I'm gonna see how the Fat Beams go on the SB-2T.

IMO, Fat Beams are fantastic on the SB-2. They've been my favorites on my SB-2 for a long time, and I plan to install a fresh set for my next gig. I recently installed a set on my new Sandberg TT-5 SL, and they are vastly superior to the stock Sandberg strings IMO.

I also find the G&L factory XLs generally underwhelming, but, in fairness, they worked beautifully on my G&L USA JB for a recording project. And I do like some nickel wound strings, especially DR Pure Blues. They were fantastic on a G&L JB-5 I owned for awhile, and I think I would like them on my M-2500 too.
 
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:drool:


Sweet basses but I especially love that SB-1 and the strap is perfect for it (as are all of those straps). Mind me asking what kind of strap it is? I have a honeyburst "other" bass it would match really well.

It's a custom made strap from a young guy in Toluca, Mexico. Called Fafnir Custom Strapps. Sadly the shipping cost more than the strap! I'll leave a link for their facebook page. It's a custom length (longer in back) and it turned out exactly like I wanted. It's supposed to be a snake pattern, but it's leather with padding, 3 1/4inches wide. The strap compliments the bass beautifully and is very comfy. Not many near orange straps out there, even less with snakey patterns. Fafnir Custom Strapps
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Here's my L2500 string journey so far:

I tried EB Cobalt flats for a week or so, and they sound fat as hell, sound great, but not quite enough high end bite for me. Also, the G and D are much brighter than the other strings, although that might wear off.

Yesterday I put on a set of GHS Pressurewounds. They are a bit brighter although not hugely so. The top 4 strings sound quite good, even though they don't have the hifi pristine highs of true roundwounds. But… the low B is kind of ick. It is huge but very dead sounding, not like the other strings, actually deader than the Cobalt flat B. It doesn't feel like the string is bad, just maybe doesn't match the bass or my touch or whatever.

The sound of the low B is important to me, so that's kind of a deal breaker unless is miraculously improves in the next day or so. Next on the block: my current top roundwounds, DR Nickel Lo-Riders.
 
Well, I've got my SB-2T strung up with some DR Fat Beams now. Wow! Super clean and punchy on the low strings, bright and snappy up high. I'm sure some of that will soften as they break in, but I did remember these strings as lasting for a while with a good level of crispness when I had them on an old L-2000. And they sound really great with a pick.

I've been on the flats train for a while now, so I'm gonna need to build some calluses back up. :laugh:
 
Here's my L2500 string journey so far:

I tried EB Cobalt flats for a week or so, and they sound fat as hell, sound great, but not quite enough high end bite for me. Also, the G and D are much brighter than the other strings, although that might wear off.

Yesterday I put on a set of GHS Pressurewounds. They are a bit brighter although not hugely so. The top 4 strings sound quite good, even though they don't have the hifi pristine highs of true roundwounds. But… the low B is kind of ick. It is huge but very dead sounding, not like the other strings, actually deader than the Cobalt flat B. It doesn't feel like the string is bad, just maybe doesn't match the bass or my touch or whatever.

The sound of the low B is important to me, so that's kind of a deal breaker unless is miraculously improves in the next day or so. Next on the block: my current top roundwounds, DR Nickel Lo-Riders.
Those sound good on that bass
 
Here's my L2500 string journey so far:

I tried EB Cobalt flats for a week or so, and they sound fat as hell, sound great, but not quite enough high end bite for me. Also, the G and D are much brighter than the other strings, although that might wear off.

Yesterday I put on a set of GHS Pressurewounds. They are a bit brighter although not hugely so. The top 4 strings sound quite good, even though they don't have the hifi pristine highs of true roundwounds. But… the low B is kind of ick. It is huge but very dead sounding, not like the other strings, actually deader than the Cobalt flat B. It doesn't feel like the string is bad, just maybe doesn't match the bass or my touch or whatever.

The sound of the low B is important to me, so that's kind of a deal breaker unless is miraculously improves in the next day or so. Next on the block: my current top roundwounds, DR Nickel Lo-Riders.
I A/B'd DR NLRs and NYXL lights (pink box) and surprisingly preferred the NYXL on my L-2000 last month.

Unaffiliated, and quite a coincidence For Sale - Daddario NYXL 45/130 Three Sets

Not for raucous or raunch, I was aiming for punch and warmth. The DRs weren't as warm in the mids quite where I like 'em.

Consider Dunlop SuperBright Nickel Rounds also, which sound and feel really alive on the L2K.
 
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Here's my L2500 string journey so far:

I tried EB Cobalt flats for a week or so, and they sound fat as hell, sound great, but not quite enough high end bite for me. Also, the G and D are much brighter than the other strings, although that might wear off.

Yesterday I put on a set of GHS Pressurewounds. They are a bit brighter although not hugely so. The top 4 strings sound quite good, even though they don't have the hifi pristine highs of true roundwounds. But… the low B is kind of ick. It is huge but very dead sounding, not like the other strings, actually deader than the Cobalt flat B. It doesn't feel like the string is bad, just maybe doesn't match the bass or my touch or whatever.

The sound of the low B is important to me, so that's kind of a deal breaker unless is miraculously improves in the next day or so. Next on the block: my current top roundwounds, DR Nickel Lo-Riders.
In case /\/\3phist0 didn't warn you, I'll often look for reasons to suggest that you post pictures of your new L-2500. So, feel to show us how different strings look on it. :D

I currently have a 3 or 4 year old set of Chromes on my L-2500 and will likely keep them on it for a few more years. But, nickel Lo Riders are my favorite rounds as well, and my favorite strings overall. At first, I was on the fence about keeping my L-2500 but putting Lo Riders on it convinced me that I wanted to keep it.

I get that specific strings on specific basses work well for some people but not for others. But, to me, the warm low mids and controlled high end of the nickel Lo Riders complemented the aggressive character of the L-xxxx basses really well and they worked great for a classic rock and blues kind of tone. As with all preferences, YMMV, of course.
 
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IMO, Fat Beams are fantastic on the SB-2. They've been my favorites on my SB-2 for a long time, and I plan to install a fresh set for my next gig. I recently installed a set on my new Sandberg TT-5 SL, and they are vastly superior to the stock Sandberg strings IMO.

I also find the G&L factory XLs generally underwhelming, but, in fairness, they worked beautifully on my G&L USA JB for a recording project. And I do like some nickel wound strings, especially DR Pure Blues. They were fantastic on a G&L JB-5 I owned for awhile, and I think I would like them on my M-2500 too.

I've tried Fat Beams. How would you describe their sound?

Most of my G&Ls have Hi Beams on them. I love those. Super long lasting stainless rounds without being super bright. Also on a round core so nice and flexible. My El-Toro has Lo-Riders on them. A bit brighter than Hi Beams and not nearly as flexible. But all in all, a super happy DR customer.
 
I've tried Fat Beams. How would you describe their sound?

Most of my G&Ls have Hi Beams on them. I love those. Super long lasting stainless rounds without being super bright. Also on a round core so nice and flexible. My El-Toro has Lo-Riders on them. A bit brighter than Hi Beams and not nearly as flexible. But all in all, a super happy DR customer.

I'd say Fat Beams are thick and clear, with some stainless crunch up top. They have lots of "life" and punch without sounding harsh at all, at least IMO. I like other DR types too, like Sunbeams and Pure Blues on J basses. I've never tried Hi-Beams, but I'm sure I will eventually.

For tone, I thought nickel Lo-Riders were fantastic on my old L-1500, but due to finger issues I stick with the more flexible round core variants now.