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You only need the battery for the boost/line driver. It increases the treble/output to overcome losses to capacitance of long cable runs or unbuffered multiple pedals.27499998[/URL], member: 61071"]
That's a beaut, enjoy
rock on!
The L-1000's (and 2000's) MFD is as aggressive as any other in that family, and it can be run that way, but the twin tone controls do allow more flexibility than with the SB series. Using bass cut and lowering the pickups and volume gets one very much into P-bass territory, especially with the parallel setting, IME. I guess I like my SB-2 so much precisely because it really takes that P-personality to a more aggressive level. Both are great flavors, but they are different.
Thanks for the word! Right, good point about the tone controls to tame the MFD into vintage territory on the L-1000. Got a lot to think about though the SB-1 is calling more to me (right now) due to body shape and control familiarity (somewhat similar to the Kiloton.)
Is there a reason why G&l puts super long scale d'addarrio nickel xl on their 5 string basses? I thought they were 34 inch scale.
Oh man! I had my eyes on a couple of basses in the G&L clearance shop and yesterday...POOF! They were all gone? I dropped Memo and Jose an email asking if that was legit but haven't heard back. I just found it strange that there were about six or more there over the weekend and none yesterday (or this morning). Wonder if one person scooped them all up. Dang!
It has happened before. When it happened in the past, they were just updating the listings. Not saying it is definitely that this time, but I will be surprised if there are not more basses listed today (with or without the ones that were there a few days ago).
Still nothing in Clearance Basses...so strange that they all disappeared literally overnight.
Still nothing in Clearance Basses...so strange that they all disappeared literally overnight.
View attachment 5073672
yeah I have been watching that. Will see if they update in the next few days. Memorial Day sale seems unlikely but possible. We can hope at least.
Still nothing in Clearance Basses...so strange that they all disappeared literally overnight.
View attachment 5073672
I know the times I waited to buy a bass, they always sell. Gotta get it fast if you really want one, you never know.
A couple of weeks ago, I grumbled about my LB-100's combination of Ruby Red Metallic, pearloid and pale-ish maple not having the visual presence I had intended.
I've now done something about it. Inspired by this photo....
....I now have a Fralin pickup with cream covers, and a 3-ply black pg on the way. (That picture, btw, actually gives a better representative of the reality of Ruby Red than pretty, well-lit photos, despite being of an entirely different color)
I know I said I didn't feel it was the right look for flats, but it's a good strong look. Obviously, living without a pearloid guard would be impossible, so, as I've found a vendor here in the UK who does ivory-tinged pearloid, warmer than the regular sort, I'll be having one made for my gold SB-1
The combination of Chromes and Dimarzio was an initially attractive one, but turned out to be too rich to have for dinner every day. I had suspected I would eventually want alnico with the Chromes and, lo.
I've now done something about it. Inspired by this photo....
....I now have a Fralin pickup with cream covers, and a 3-ply black pg on the way. (That picture, btw, actually gives a better representative of the reality of Ruby Red than pretty, well-lit photos, despite being of an entirely different color)
I know I said I didn't feel it was the right look for flats, but it's a good strong look. Obviously, living without a pearloid guard would be impossible, so, as I've found a vendor here in the UK who does ivory-tinged pearloid, warmer than the regular sort, I'll be having one made for my gold SB-1
The combination of Chromes and Dimarzio was an initially attractive one, but turned out to be too rich to have for dinner every day. I had suspected I would eventually want alnico with the Chromes and, lo.
A couple of weeks ago, I grumbled about my LB-100's combination of Ruby Red Metallic, pearloid and pale-ish maple not having the visual presence I had intended.
I've now done something about it. Inspired by this photo....
View attachment 5078441
....I now have a Fralin pickup with cream covers, and a 3-ply black pg on the way. (That picture, btw, actually gives a better representative of the reality of Ruby Red than pretty, well-lit photos, despite being of an entirely different color)
I know I said I didn't feel it was the right look for flats, but it's a good strong look. Obviously, living without a pearloid guard would be impossible, so, as I've found a vendor here in the UK who does ivory-tinged pearloid, warmer than the regular sort, I'll be having one made for my gold SB-1
The combination of Chromes and Dimarzio was an initially attractive one, but turned out to be too rich to have for dinner every day. I had suspected I would eventually want alnico with the Chromes and, lo.
That will look fantastic. Ruby Red Metallic might be my favorite G&L finish, and I think it will pair extremely well with a black pickguard and maple fretboard. In fact, I've considered that exact combination for either a JB-5 or LB-100. The cream pickup cover will be a nice touch.
As for pickups, I took a similar journey with a 2004 Fender P. I replaced the anemic stock pickup with a DiMarzio Model P, which was great but lacked vintage warmth IMO. So I tried a Seymour Duncan SPB-2 Hot, which provided the warmth, but too much boomy fatness and not enough grit. I finally bought a Lindy Fralin, and it was absolutely perfect IMO. It should pair quite nicely with Chromes. (Oddly, a couple of years later, that stock Fender pickup came to life when I tried it with Chromes on a project fretless P. It seemed like it had been designed specifically for those strings, and sounded great.)
Restringed my K5 this morning and applied some lemon oil to the fretboard. WOW it was dry. Took 3 coats before it even looked wet. It was soaking it up like crazy.
I've lived in an arid climate almost all my playing life, and now I live in the real desert. The humidity currently is 17%, and it will probably drop into the single digits this afternoon and every afternoon for several months. Chapstick is a very popular product here. When I buy a new bass, it sometimes takes six months for the wood to dry out to the point where it stabilizes. Oiling a neck here is a process that takes patience. It's good to see you have an in-house tech to help you with your work.
Have you heard the saying that no question is stupid? Well, I'll disprove that. Is there a good method for changing strings on a USA G&L bass? I've been playing bass for 50+ years, and my tried and true method of winding strings onto a bass tuner just doesn't work with them. I've attempted a couple other methods, and I got the strings on the tuners, but it was about as much fun as solving a rubiks cube and just as complicated. Since I don't like to make a half-day procedure out of changing strings, I thought I'd ask for direction (something a guy is never supposed to do!)
I dunno man, I'm a mechanical numbskull so I always watch the standard Fender video before I change strings and it works perfect every time on my JBs and Kilotons. Pretty sure it's the standard method.
