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G&L Club Part 7

Something to consider in pine vs. alder or swamp ash: With winter coming on, if you need heat and decide to burn a bass in your fireplace to keep from freezing, pine will burn faster and hotter than ash or alder. And remember to remove the hardware and neck first so, come spring, you can just order a clearance body from G&L and re-assemble the bass just like new! (Sorry, my attempts at satire often fall flat, but I keep on trying.)
 
Something to consider in pine vs. alder or swamp ash: With winter coming on, if you need heat and decide to burn a bass in your fireplace to keep from freezing, pine will burn faster and hotter than ash or alder. And remember to remove the hardware and neck first so, come spring, you can just order a clearance body from G&L and re-assemble the bass just like new! (Sorry, my attempts at satire often fall flat, but I keep on trying.)

Oh my!
 
Something to consider in pine vs. alder or swamp ash: With winter coming on, if you need heat and decide to burn a bass in your fireplace to keep from freezing, pine will burn faster and hotter than ash or alder. And remember to remove the hardware and neck first so, come spring, you can just order a clearance body from G&L and re-assemble the bass just like new! (Sorry, my attempts at satire often fall flat, but I keep on trying.)

So is faster and hotter better, or slower/longer lasting, but not as hot the better solution?
 
My very first G&L bass was a Tribute L2500 that I bought used. The original owner had replaced the preamp with a Seymour Duncan preamp which he said improved the sound remarkably. That was a lie. It sounded dreadful. Not that the SD preamp was bad, it just wasn't made for this bass. I even called Seymour Duncan and asked them about it, and they told me they simply did not make a preamp that would work for a G&L L2x00. To me, the preamp in an L2x00 works and sounds great with that bass. And if you bypass it to passive, the tone controls still work...and the series/parallel switch still works...and the pickup selector switch still works. I'm not a guitar or bass wiring expert, though I'm knowledgeable about some of it and have done a lot. And I don't know anything about Bartolini preamps. I have used a number of SD preamps and gotten good results, but this L2500 I bought was a mess. If you rewire an L2x00 for another preamp, you'd best be an expert at it. If you're buying an L2x00 that's been rewired, I recommend checking to see if whomever did it is an expert. This is because incorporating everything an L2x00 is capable of into another preamp's system can get real tricky, though not impossible.
 
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My very first G&L bass was a Tribute L2500 that I bought used. The original owner had replaced the preamp with a Seymour Duncan preamp which he said improved the sound remarkably. That was a lie. It sounded dreadful. Not that the SD preamp was bad, it just wasn't made for this bass. I even called Seymour Duncan and asked them about it, and they told me they simply did not make a preamp that would work for a G&L L2x00. To me, the preamp in an L2x00 works and sounds great with that bass. And if you bypass it to passive, the tone controls still work...and the series/parallel switch still works...and the pickup selector switch still works. I'm not a guitar or bass wiring expert, though I'm knowledgeable about some of it and have done a lot. And I don't know anything about Bartolini preamps. I have used a number of SD preamps and gotten good results, but this L2500 I bought was a mess. If you rewire an L2x00 for another preamp, you'd best be an expert at it. If you're buying an L2x00 that's been rewired, I recommend checking to see if whomever did it is an expert. This is because incorporating everything an L2x00 is capable of into another preamp's system can get real tricky, though not impossible.

Not surprised to hear that the SD pre didn't sound right with the MFD's. I've run into similar mismatches, though never with a G&L bass, but with a few others, including a Skyline 4402 that came with the stock Bart 3-band, but with Basslines pickups which were a Lakland factory option for a while. Never could get much clarity from that setup no matter how I EQ'd it. But what convinced me that the 4402's elecs were a poor matchup, was that I also had an Ibanez RD 900 at the same time. That Ibanez came stock with the same Basslines J/MM pickups, but with an Ibanez-designed 3-band. The Ibanez was a wonderful sounding bass with all freqs well represented. They did a thoughtful job matching the pre to the Basslines.
 
Not only was the wiring done improperly, but when I talked to Seymour Duncan and told them what preamp was in it, they told me it was designed for active pickups. They made a similar one for passive pickups, but they told me it wouldn't work on that bass. I have a Tribute LB-100 that I dropped a split coil MFD into. Before I did that, I had put an SD 2-band concentric preamp in it, and I just left it in. It works fine with the MFD. In fact, it works very well with the MFD--terrific sounding, and very versatile. However, that's not to say how well it might work with that monster MFD humbucker. Rumor is that Paul Gagon had to under-wind MFD humbuckers to work with his M-series preamp in the M2x00 basses.
 
Are you referring to me mate? If you are It's actually quite the contrary. G n L turned me on to the EMG DC's back in the day with the L5500. MFD's are great pups, love them, but I play G n L because of the vibe and feel of the instrument it's self. I love "mustangs" and I love P basses. They are my two go to basses. And not because of the electronics but more because of the design and feel. I have never played a good 5 string P style from another company that felt right to me like the L5500 or more so L2500 (which is basically a P on steroids as is the wunkay) and the Fallout out is a better mustang than any mustang I have played. And I am strictly talking about the design, feel, quality and playability of the instrument, that's why I play them and that's why I endorse them.
What do you think about this case for my L2500?
https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Lightweight-Polyfoam-Electric-Guitars/dp/B000WZ7FT2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_maf_2?crid=28MLYQW831P5V&keywords=hybrid+case+for+5+string+bass+guitar&qid=1698708288&sprefix=hybrid+case+for+5+string+vass+guitar,aps,119&sr=8-3

I have health issues, so this is hopefully one I can trust to protect my bass and be a light weight to help my back.
 
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What do you think about this case for my L2500?

Bass fits, but I would not use it. I have a Gator Transit that looks to be the same build only with grey exterior. Tried my Tribute L2500 in it and the bass fits, but it is able to slide at least a half inch inside the case (see last two photos for an idea of the shift). I like my basses stable in the case. I have a Gator Titan case that fits the L2500 well (it is the one I use for my US L2500). If you can find a Gator with the form fitting design of the Titan, it should work well.

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Edit: Just looked and I do not see any form fitting Gators for P/J style basses other than Titan. SKB makes several that I assume would work, but have not tried them.
 
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Bass fits, but I would not use it. I have a Gator Transit that looks to be the same build only with grey exterior. Tried my L2500 in it and the bass fits, but it is able to slide at least a half inch inside the case (see last two photos for an idea of the shift). I like my basses stable in the case. I have a Gator Titan case that fits the L2500 well (it is the one I use for my US L2500). If you can find a Gator with the form fitting design of the Titan, it should work well.

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Edit: Just looked and I do not see any form fitting Gators for P/J style basses. SKB makes several that I assume would work, but have not tried them.
Thanks for the heads up.
 
Thanks for the heads up.

Thinking about it a little. If you really want to go with the Gator, a clean microfiber rag near either strap button would probably remove my concern. You would just have to deal with putting the bass in then placing the rag each time. I keep a Peavey Milestone 1 in mine and it holds a Jazz bass completely stable.
 
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I use this gig bag for my LB-100. It fits like a glove...has 2 pockets on the front...is lightweight with backpack straps if needed. I don't mind if my bass moves a little inside the case/gig bag, as long as the material is smooth so it won't scratch it, but my LB-100 moves not at all in this. It has a nice plush interior and is padded well. It might be available elsewhere for a better price. I believe also that Levy is owned by Gator. I have no affiliation with nobody!
Levy's Deluxe Gig Bag for Bass Guitars - Tan
 
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Thought I would post my second sparkle bass. This one is a G&L SB-2 from Japan.

It is gorgeous. I bought the bass with a natural neck (imported bass complete from Japan) and then I miraculously managed to source the matching headstock SB-2 neck from the same run in Japan (also imported by me from Japan). I feel pretty fortunate to have united the body with a perfectly matching painted headstock.

So... Enjoy. I will post pics of the red sparkle along with this silver/gold sparkle tomorrow.
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Interestingly, I have never played an SB-2. The bass is sitting at my office as art. I'll have to take it home sometime soon to have a go at it.

Also, does anyone know how to date these MIJ basses by serial number? I know the "tribute" basses are earlier than the "tribute premium" basses. Both of mine are early and made by Fuji-gen Gakki, I would love to know the dates.

Thanks.
 
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