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G&L Club Part 7

If anyone has tried an M series MFD in a Wunkay or L-2000 in passive mode, I'd appreciate hearing how that worked out.

Now you have me wanting to throw an M series pickup into my Fallout. Seems like it could be fun with a vol/bass/treble/tone active/passive preamp setup.

Edit: Just found an M2500 pickup set with preamp an reverb. Looks like you would loose coil tap with this setup. 2 leads instead of 4.
 
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To each their own, I don't tighten mine at all because I don't hear an audible difference. I'd rather not lock the saddles down so intonation adjustments are less fiddly.

There seems to be two schools of thought on locking saddle bridges:

1) Those who claim some benefit by fusing the saddles into one unit.

2) Those who claim individual bridges benefit from being isolated from one another.

Riddle me this...

If either system had a positive effect over the other, why wouldn't everyone be using the "better" bridge design?
I'm not a bridge expert at all, far from it.
But I was a Rickenbacker player (terrible bridges but beefy af) and decided I wanted to try a fender shaped object and settled on some kind of JB.
Despite knowing nothing really about brigdes, I'd look at a Fender J and then a G&L J and think, dang, that Fender bridge looks...well, cheap and flimsy.
Whereas the saddle-lock bridge - though not big - looked far more stout, solid, and just looked like it was made better.
Deciding between the Am Pro II and the Fullerton JB came down to that: the G&L bridge just looked well-made and of much higher quality, compared to that little tin lookin thing on the Fender.
I have no idea if locking the saddles makes a difference. My bass sounds awesome though.
 
Hello!
I am restoring a '83 Wunkay that was in baaaad shape. One of the previous owners stripped the maple fretboard of the bicut neck to do a (butcher) repair in the trussrod, and replaced with a technical wood fretboard. Very bad ideas. The work was a mess to complete the package.

I am willing if anybody has a 80s paddle headstock L1000 neck, in maple, to sell, and some knobs, as the originals were gone too.

Below, some pictures of the bass as he arrived to me. The original color was blue.

WhatsApp Image 2024-01-04 at 13.38.05.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.24 (2).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.24.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.24 (1).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.28.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.25.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.25 (2).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.25 (1).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.27 (2).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.27 (3).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.26.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.27.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.24 (3).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.25 (3).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-02 at 16.01.27 (1).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-04 at 18.25.40.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2024-01-04 at 13.41.49.jpeg
 

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Hello!
I am restoring a '83 Wunkay that was in baaaad shape. One of the previous owners stripped the maple fretboard of the bicut neck to do a (butcher) repair in the trussrod, and replaced with a technical wood fretboard. Very bad ideas. The work was a mess to complete the package.

I am willing if anybody has a 80s paddle headstock L1000 neck, in maple, to sell, and some knobs, as the originals were gone too.

Below, some pictures of the bass as he arrived to me. The original color was blue.

View attachment 5306877 View attachment 5306892 View attachment 5306889 View attachment 5306893 View attachment 5306878 View attachment 5306884 View attachment 5306886 View attachment 5306887 View attachment 5306881 View attachment 5306880 View attachment 5306883 View attachment 5306879 View attachment 5306891 View attachment 5306885 View attachment 5306882 View attachment 5306875 View attachment 5306876
Good luck with the restoration!!
G&L sells new reproductions of the original knobs on their online store.
Knob - CLF Research - Bass
 
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I'd been watching for a Kiloton with maple neck and black blocks since I sold my Custom Shop L-2500. My early stage Parkinson's made the tighter string spacing a bit of a challenge. I loved that bass, the only custom bass I've ever owned.

Well, Pitbull Audio put this beast on sale just before US Thanksgiving and I pulled the trigger. Just got it back from setup today and I am very happy. I almost went with a Kiloton for the original custom shop order, and I'm glad to have this as my number 1. I couldn't find one with black neck binding as well, but I will get use to it. Still looks killer.

I'm considering a Tort pickguard, but the gloss black on matte black looks really nice.

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Recently bought a Tribute Kiloton in Frost Black - but with a rosewood fingerboard. Was also thinking of changing to a non-black pick guard (Tortise Shell). Will wait a while and see what I think. I need more practicing and less purchasing.
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Public service announcement - if you're thinking of trying Dunlop 40-100 Flats on a G&L don't bother...
G saddle was all the way back (removing saddle spring didn't help as the screw is already in all the way) - still 7 cents sharp and totally away from Saddle Lock screw, same same with A.View attachment 5307542
I'm having the same issue on my Tribute Kiloton with the G-string of a set of Ernie Ball Slinky Cobalt flats. In fact, I've tried two of them and gotten the same results, plus a used one that I took off a Jazz Bass. I could finally intonate the one from the Jazz Bass by screwing it all the way into another zip code. The two new ones were useless. I contacted Ernie Ball Customer Service and they're sending me two new G-strings.
 
I'm having the same issue on my Tribute Kiloton with the G-string of a set of Ernie Ball Slinky Cobalt flats. In fact, I've tried two of them and gotten the same results, plus a used one that I took off a Jazz Bass. I could finally intonate the one from the Jazz Bass by screwing it all the way into another zip code. The two new ones were useless. I contacted Ernie Ball Customer Service and they're sending me two new G-strings.

What gauge set are you using?
 
I'm having the same issue on my Tribute Kiloton with the G-string of a set of Ernie Ball Slinky Cobalt flats. In fact, I've tried two of them and gotten the same results, plus a used one that I took off a Jazz Bass. I could finally intonate the one from the Jazz Bass by screwing it all the way into another zip code. The two new ones were useless. I contacted Ernie Ball Customer Service and they're sending me two new G-strings.

I have used GHS flats on my kiloton and have a set of DR flats on my Fallout. Both worked fine.
 
I have three different gauge sets from them but since they're mostly on my fretless basses I'll never know how well they're intonated. :whistle:
My Tribute Kiloton is fretted. I would say it's the bass, but I've looked all over it and can't find a problem. My luthier, who I've used for 40+ years, says it's the strings. And when I emailed Ernie Ball, they offered to send me a couple G-strings without my even asking them to. I was just emailing them to see if they'd heard of this because it seems so weird to me. They wouldn't admit to that.
 
Now I'm going to have to check as I do have them on two of my fretted basses, '92 L2000 & US Lakland Bob Glaub. Same gauge as yours on those two.
Please post the results. I have them on a Jazz Bass, and they're fine, but on this Tribute Kiloton, which I just bought used, they've been crazy. The first one intonated at the 12th fret but was noticeably off on every other fret--sharp from frets one through 11 and flat from frets 13 through 21.