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G&L Club Part 7

Sure did. I went there planning to take home a Stingray but played this one and it was all over.




Different strokes for different folks. If I'm ever in the market for a woodworker I guess I'm gonna look elsewhere. :D Just kidding.

Seriously though, I get its not for everyone. I personally love block inlays, especially matching inlays like this.

Here's a few more pics that Sweetwater sent me.

View attachment 7288864View attachment 7288865View attachment 7288866

The Aguilar double P config is absolutely huge sounding. Big, full, punchy and somewhat vintage. Really nice combo.
Amazing! Congrats on that beast! Looks like a "do anything" axe. What are the controls doing? Does it have a passive mode?
 
Sure did. I went there planning to take home a Stingray but played this one and it was all over.




Different strokes for different folks. If I'm ever in the market for a woodworker I guess I'm gonna look elsewhere. :D Just kidding.

Seriously though, I get its not for everyone. I personally love block inlays, especially matching inlays like this.

Here's a few more pics that Sweetwater sent me.

View attachment 7288864View attachment 7288865View attachment 7288866

The Aguilar double P config is absolutely huge sounding. Big, full, punchy and somewhat vintage. Really nice combo.

Better pics! I love the tint, and I am a sucker for a flamey neck.

The inlays would still put me off, but who cares? It's not my bass. Rock it happily. The pickups intrigue me; MFDs were what got me into G&L in the first place, but I know a lot of people swear by the Aguilars.
 
Sure did. I went there planning to take home a Stingray but played this one and it was all over.




Different strokes for different folks. If I'm ever in the market for a woodworker I guess I'm gonna look elsewhere. :D Just kidding.

Seriously though, I get its not for everyone. I personally love block inlays, especially matching inlays like this.

Here's a few more pics that Sweetwater sent me.

View attachment 7288864View attachment 7288865View attachment 7288866

The Aguilar double P config is absolutely huge sounding. Big, full, punchy and somewhat vintage. Really nice combo.
Nice! I wish they would do a 4 string, cosmetically simpler version as a standard model. I also wonder how similar the preamp is to the ones in the MJ4 and M2000.
 
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Nice! I wish they would do a 4 string, cosmetically simpler version as a standard model. I also wonder how similar the preamp is to the ones in the MJ4 and M2000.

Preamp is an Aguilar OBP3. I like both the Aguilar and the G&L pre. The Aggie pre paired witih Aggie pickups seems like a great match.
 
Cool. What makes them match?

I don't mean to speak for the OP but they're a good match because they're designed to work well together. Aguilar knows what they're doing, same as other pickup and preamp makers do. Results are predictable with same-brand elecs, so there's that.
 
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Hello G&L aficionado's . I am looking to get a black G&L bridge for my 2024 SB1. I found one but it is from a G&L Lynx bass from 1985. The bridge looks identical to my 2024 model. But my question is , does anyone know if this will fit my current bass?
 
Just received my brand new Fullerton SB-2 with a tone control. I pulled it out of the case and was moving it around to inspect the finish. When I was done I noticed a long screw dangling from the bridge. Apparently the G string saddle screw had worked itself completely loose from the saddle. The rest of the saddle screws seemed to be a little loose as well. I've never seen anything like that on a factory fresh guitar or bass. For what it's worth, I'm not that impressed with the tone control anyway. Hopefully I'll see more utility from it the more I play it.
 
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Just received my brand new Fullerton SB-2 with a tone control. I pulled it out of the case and was moving it around to inspect the finish. When I was done I noticed a long screw dangling from the bridge. Apparently the G string saddle screw had worked itself completely loose from the saddle. The rest of the saddle screws seemed to be a little loose as well. I've never seen anything like that on a factory fresh guitar or bass. For what it's worth, I'm not that impressed with the tone control anyway. Hopefully I'll see more utility from it the more I play it.

My bass that went back and forth to Fullerton for warranty work and then replacement, everytime the saddle height adjusment screws were completely off (saddles not level and out of height adjustment) and the set screw wasn't tightened down either when it returned. Although I can't say for sure that the travel across the country in truck didn't rattle them out of adjustment but it never happened on any other brand bass that was shipped to me.
Anyways, congrats on the bass, we'd love to see some photos!
 
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Just received my brand new Fullerton SB-2 with a tone control. I pulled it out of the case and was moving it around to inspect the finish. When I was done I noticed a long screw dangling from the bridge. Apparently the G string saddle screw had worked itself completely loose from the saddle. The rest of the saddle screws seemed to be a little loose as well. I've never seen anything like that on a factory fresh guitar or bass. For what it's worth, I'm not that impressed with the tone control anyway. Hopefully I'll see more utility from it the more I play it.
The saddle screw on the G string of my Kiloton worked it's way out, but that happened after it had been owned and played for a number of years. I also have an SB-2 with the tone control. Haven't fallen in love with that bass for some reason.
 
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Just received my brand new Fullerton SB-2 with a tone control. I pulled it out of the case and was moving it around to inspect the finish. When I was done I noticed a long screw dangling from the bridge. Apparently the G string saddle screw had worked itself completely loose from the saddle. The rest of the saddle screws seemed to be a little loose as well. I've never seen anything like that on a factory fresh guitar or bass. For what it's worth, I'm not that impressed with the tone control anyway. Hopefully I'll see more utility from it the more I play it.
I have an '08 SB-2, which was back when a tone control on an SB-2 was just a gleam in Dave McLaren's eyes. I've never put one on there, but I have re-wired it into what I call a TBS SB-2...simply a single volume control. That single volume control also is a push / pull switch to put the pickups in either parallel or series. That's all the tone control it needs. It's a magnificent sounding bass, and about as simple as a bass can be.

I've owned many G&Ls, but only once did I have a saddle screw come loose. That was on a Tribute JB which mistakenly had a 21 fret neck on it instead of a 20 fret neck. It was impossible to intonate since it was essentially a 34.5" scale bass. None of the screws were long enough. I returned the bass. G&L had quite a few of those faulty "Turquoise Mist" JBs come in from Cort. They "fixed" the problem by offering four longer saddle screws for free to anyone who had bought one of those basses. You might contact Memo Romero at G&L to see if they have longer screws available for a Fullerton bass.
 
Became the proud owner of my first G&L yesterday. A 1995 ASAT in PERFECT condition; virtually untouched. Some nice and interesting figuring on both the body and neck. Still learning it's tones but it feels good on the body and in the hands.

Anyone know when they started putting two strap buttons on the bridge side of the body? Someone made a comment about mine having one and it possibly being older than '95 because of this.

IMG_6665.jpeg
 
Has anyone put an active preamp in a passive JB?

I have a Tribute series JB and I'm eyeballing an Audere preamp to drop in it. I know the pre-amp and battery are supposed to fit into a passive Fender J bass, but I'm wondering if there's any difference in the cavity size of the G&L that could be an issue.

Also, are control plates interchangeable between G&L and Fender? I see Audere has two different models, and one has a toggle switch. I was looking to get that one, but if I have to use the OEM plate, I'd get the toggle-less version.
 
Has anyone put an active preamp in a passive JB?

I have a Tribute series JB and I'm eyeballing an Audere preamp to drop in it. I know the pre-amp and battery are supposed to fit into a passive Fender J bass, but I'm wondering if there's any difference in the cavity size of the G&L that could be an issue.

Also, are control plates interchangeable between G&L and Fender? I see Audere has two different models, and one has a toggle switch. I was looking to get that one, but if I have to use the OEM plate, I'd get the toggle-less version.
I'm not sure about a Fender control plate fitting a G&L, but I wouldn't count on it.

As for fitting a preamp and battery and into a jazz bass control cavity, it's always a tight squeeze, though I understand that Audere designs their preamps with this in mind. Manufacturers of instruments do not rout their control cavities on passive instruments with the possibility in mind that someone might want to convert the instrument to active. (There are exceptions, like the G&L Tribute JB-2. I converted mine to active, and there was plenty of room for a battery afterwards.) They are nearly always routed so the passive controls fit in tightly. Just in case, I'd be prepared for the possibility of installing a battery box into the back of the instrument. Having a battery box on the back also makes it much easier and quicker to replace a battery when needed.
 
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Has anyone put an active preamp in a passive JB?

I have a Tribute series JB and I'm eyeballing an Audere preamp to drop in it. I know the pre-amp and battery are supposed to fit into a passive Fender J bass, but I'm wondering if there's any difference in the cavity size of the G&L that could be an issue.

Also, are control plates interchangeable between G&L and Fender? I see Audere has two different models, and one has a toggle switch. I was looking to get that one, but if I have to use the OEM plate, I'd get the toggle-less version.

They fit in the US JB not sure about the Tributes. I had an East J-Tone in my old JB5. Worth noting that import models sometimes have smaller control cavities. Even if the control plate lines up, you may have to make the cavity deeper.