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G&L Club Part 7

#3,323
Cuzzie said:
Yep CLF38725.
I had a look on the web site and can place it between numbers.
If you can shed some more light, happy for knowledge.
Click to expand...

I entered a range of numbers from CLF38200 to CLF39200 (all guitars and basses).
ALL registered instruments showing a manufacturing year indicate 2004 to 2006, with a few exceptions (one in 2007 and one in 2009).
That's a surprisingly wide year span, generally you can narrow down better, even to a quarter.
I guess that during this period G&L had a large stock of decals that were picked up quite randomly.
If it were a 96/97, it would still have a B------ number stamped on the neck plate.

I'm confident you will be successful... :hyper:
 
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#3,325
So I got my 82 G&L L2000E in today. First off love'n it so far. I bought it knowing the preamp was not functioning and the first thing i see is the output jack has been changed to an open Switch craft stereo jack. These should have the closed 113X jack I think. Is that enough to stop the preamp from functioning?
 
#3,328
A stereo jack of any sort would work, assuming it's wired up properly. The closed jacks are prone to failing over time, wearing out, so probably the reason for the swap.

I'd try verifying the wiring with the diagrams on the G&L site first, then if that's all correct, try a new opamp. Not sure about '82, but recent ones are socketed so changing is pretty straightforward. Of course make sure the battery is fresh, too.
 
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#3,330
Checking the wiring is the next step. I pulled.the control plate briefly before practice and it was the first thing that jumped out at me.

The Op Amp is socketed on it as well so changing that is simple.

I brought it to practice last night and just ran it in passive mode. Sounded good, but needs to be restrung. Another thing that I noticed is the Bass pot seems to be bad too. When you turn it, nothing really happens till your at about 75% and then it's almost like a switch and the control comes on. Possibly could have been replaced with the wrong type, Audio taper versus linear taper, but again I have to investigate further.
 
#3,331
TinIndian said:
So I got my 82 G&L L2000E in today. First off love'n it so far. I bought it knowing the preamp was not functioning and the first thing i see is the output jack has been changed to an open Switch craft stereo jack. These should have the closed 113X jack I think. Is that enough to stop the preamp from functioning?
Click to expand...
It sounds like it has had the Jack Replacement mod done to it, those barrel jacks can be prone to failure. The preamp should work the same as before as long as the mod has been done properly.
 
#3,332
TinIndian said:
Checking the wiring is the next step. I pulled.the control plate briefly before practice and it was the first thing that jumped out at me.

The Op Amp is socketed on it as well so changing that is simple.

I brought it to practice last night and just ran it in passive mode. Sounded good, but needs to be restrung. Another thing that I noticed is the Bass pot seems to be bad too. When you turn it, nothing really happens till your at about 75% and then it's almost like a switch and the control comes on. Possibly could have been replaced with the wrong type, Audio taper versus linear taper, but again I have to investigate further.
Click to expand...

The only other point of failure that I could see beyond the wiring and opamp would be a bad switch. It's unlikely that the caps and resistors on the board would fail.

The bass control pot is difficult to source. Direct from G&L is the best option. If you're working with a bass that has the top-mount control plate, Mouser also stocks a C1M pot that will work, though it's the dime-sized version, not the full-sized. Personally, I'd just go through the G&L online store for that. You can get a switch from them, too, if yours turns out to be faulty.
 
#3,333
image.jpeg
I know the thread has moved on, but soon enough I will be the proud owner of another G&L.
Cheers for the help guys
 
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#3,337
TDR1138 said:
The only other point of failure that I could see beyond the wiring and opamp would be a bad switch. It's unlikely that the caps and resistors on the board would fail.

The bass control pot is difficult to source. Direct from G&L is the best option. If you're working with a bass that has the top-mount control plate, Mouser also stocks a C1M pot that will work, though it's the dime-sized version, not the full-sized. Personally, I'd just go through the G&L online store for that. You can get a switch from them, too, if yours turns out to be faulty.
Click to expand...

I was just looking for pots for this. I see that the Volume and Treble use 250K pots and was wondering why a C1m for the bass. Actually thought I was reading some info wrong.
Thanks for the info on that!
 

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