Start saving up:
I can do that.
Sweet.
Ken, do you know if it's gonna have 2500 string spacing, or, something more 18-19-ish?
Exhale, mang.
Me thinks this bass could be a looong way off.
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Exhale, mang.
Me thinks this bass could be a looong way off.
Chef
In Memoriam
I ran across this live TMBG clip and was digging the punchy bass- and there was the L2k.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_D-IXW5oW0&list=PL47_9kLUIXskIcpsVkxk5ngIv58B-WtAN
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_D-IXW5oW0&list=PL47_9kLUIXskIcpsVkxk5ngIv58B-WtAN
Start saving up:
I can do that.
Sweet.
Ken, do you know if it's gonna have 2500 string spacing, or, something more 18-19-ish?
I would not look for a new bridge.
Ken...
Chef
In Memoriam
I'm getting more impressed with G&L basses the more I get familiar with them. I've been reading up on them and hope you folks can fill in the blanks on some phrases I keep hearing.
Like what is K wiring? And how big a deal is 6 bolts over 3? I'd guess the switch to 6 really stabilized the neck - were there issues with 3's?
I'm considering an L2000 Tribute if that makes any difference in these questions.
Thanks in advance.
Like what is K wiring? And how big a deal is 6 bolts over 3? I'd guess the switch to 6 really stabilized the neck - were there issues with 3's?
I'm considering an L2000 Tribute if that makes any difference in these questions.
Thanks in advance.
the K-wiring offers the single-coil option in addition to the stock series/parallel switch. as far as 6 bolts over 3, the old 3-bolts neck had the tilt adjustment, which is basically a built-in shim. neck stability is a non issue IME as their tolerances are pretty tight. between my '81 L1K and '14 SB-2 there is no wiggle room in the neck pocket.
I've had 2 with 3 bolt necks and both were extremely stable. No issues at all. The 6 bolt neck was unnecessary IMO. Not that it is a bad thing, you won't have a problem with either.
I recently bought myself a L-2000 Tribute. I really enjoy the bass. The build quality is amazing and it has to many tonal options.
I installed the K wiring (the outer single coil variety) and the OMG mod, but I've since removed the OMG mod as I didn't like it.
The K-mod gives me the option to use a single coil from each pickup (I opted for the outer coils). Just another option when selecting a tone.
You cannot order the Tribute model with "K" wiring. That is only a US option although you can mod the Tribute afterwards for single coil.
Thanks to everyone for the answers! These basses are more intriguing all the time.
Are there any known issues to look out for when buying?
I've played some USA models in my local store and noticed that the "feel" varies a great deal from one to the next. There is a narrower nut on some necks but I'm wondering if there are more variations than that. Am I missing something?
Are there any known issues to look out for when buying?
I've played some USA models in my local store and noticed that the "feel" varies a great deal from one to the next. There is a narrower nut on some necks but I'm wondering if there are more variations than that. Am I missing something?
On the US made ones, there are options for different necks (nut width and radius). The Tributes don't have different options, it's just one size fits all.
More L2K goodness: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eyA2wkhcYU featuring the awesome Sara Lee. What I love about this live clip is a) you can barely see anyone except Fripp, b) He stuffs up the ending
Chef
In Memoriam
So, I've been getting together the parts to do the Bridge Mod to my L-2500. I ordered the threaded spacers from McMaster-Carr. I found what I thought were suitable 6-32 screws at Home Depot.
The screws I bought are 1 1/2" long. I figured with the web page saying that he ended up with ones that are 1 9/16" long, 1 1/2" would only be 1/16" shorter, so should be fine. I went to install them last night and 1 1/2" was way too short.
I'm going to go back and buy 1 3/4" and 2", if they have them, and then just trim as necessary.
I also found that the 1/4" spacers from McMaster-Carr actually stick out of the ferrules on the back of the bass body by just a slight amount. Not enough to make me not use them. But, from the BBL page on this, I expected them to sit down inside the ferrules just slightly. So, just FYI, I guess.
But, an interesting thing (to me, anyway) that I noticed as I've been working on this is that my SB-2 has basically the same bridge as my L-2500 (except for one less string, of course). And the SB-2 bridge actually has screws through all those same holes that the L-2500 bridge has open for stringing through body.
I just thought it was interesting that on the 4-string bridge, G&L would have 6 screws holding it to the body, where on the L-2500 bridge, they would only have 2 screws.
Personally, I prefer not to string through body, as I don't think it really makes any useful difference, and it just makes it where the strings used can no longer be transplanted onto a bass that only allows through-bridge stringing. If there IS any benefit to stringing through body (e.g. more sustain), on an L-2500, I suspect that I'll end up with an equal benefit by doing this Bridge Mod and then stringing through the bridge.
The screws I bought are 1 1/2" long. I figured with the web page saying that he ended up with ones that are 1 9/16" long, 1 1/2" would only be 1/16" shorter, so should be fine. I went to install them last night and 1 1/2" was way too short.
I'm going to go back and buy 1 3/4" and 2", if they have them, and then just trim as necessary.
I also found that the 1/4" spacers from McMaster-Carr actually stick out of the ferrules on the back of the bass body by just a slight amount. Not enough to make me not use them. But, from the BBL page on this, I expected them to sit down inside the ferrules just slightly. So, just FYI, I guess.
But, an interesting thing (to me, anyway) that I noticed as I've been working on this is that my SB-2 has basically the same bridge as my L-2500 (except for one less string, of course). And the SB-2 bridge actually has screws through all those same holes that the L-2500 bridge has open for stringing through body.
I just thought it was interesting that on the 4-string bridge, G&L would have 6 screws holding it to the body, where on the L-2500 bridge, they would only have 2 screws.
Personally, I prefer not to string through body, as I don't think it really makes any useful difference, and it just makes it where the strings used can no longer be transplanted onto a bass that only allows through-bridge stringing. If there IS any benefit to stringing through body (e.g. more sustain), on an L-2500, I suspect that I'll end up with an equal benefit by doing this Bridge Mod and then stringing through the bridge.
I just placed an order for a JB in Spanish Copper Metallic, matching headstock, quartersawn neck, rosewood fingerboard, and tort guard. Now I wait 6-8 weeks, but I'm really excited! 
Yeah I don't know why they do that; it seems half-a**ed to me. The bridge is massive enough that string-through is not going to help. If anything the weaker attachment hurts coupling with the body, and there have been cases where the bridge gets pulled out when top-loaded with only two screws.
