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G&L Club Part 7

Yeah I don't know why they do that; it seems half-a**ed to me. The bridge is massive enough that string-through is not going to help. If anything the weaker attachment hurts coupling with the body, and there have been cases where the bridge gets pulled out when top-loaded with only two screws.

I"m not a huge fan of string-through either, although I do like to keep the option open. That's why when I bought my used L2500 and the previous owner had modded it with the 6-32 mod, I took it off!

What I've done to all my L2500s is to put threaded inserts to hold the bridge on and use stainless 8-32 socket head cap screws to crank that bridge down. It is going nowhere! You have to drill the bridge screw holes out a bit as I recall. I really don't like drilling on my USA G&Ls but this mod is important as far as I can see. If I recall correctly, I think I had to order longer strings the last time I used the through-body stringing, which is why I don't bother since there seems to be little advantage.
 
I just placed an order for a JB in Spanish Copper Metallic, matching headstock, quartersawn neck, rosewood fingerboard, and tort guard. Now I wait 6-8 weeks, but I'm really excited! :)


Careful on that 6-8 weeks. I ordered mine in the middle of December and my buddy here on TB ordered his a week before. We both ordered different SB-1s and we are still waiting. Haven't even heard a word yet. I only say that cause of getting your hopes up. I did. I should be jamming on it as we speak.
 
I was able to find everything for the bridge mod at the local ace hardware. Had to cut the screws to fit just right but the whole job is cake.

I only looked at Home Depot and Lowes. I found 6-32 stainless machine screws, but I could not find suitable threaded spacers. I may have to stop into an Ace, if I can find one, to look for the longer screws that I now need. I looked at Lowe's last night and they didn't have any 6-32 stainless that were longer than 1.5". I got some galvanized, but I'm anal and want stainless. :D

I"m not a huge fan of string-through either, although I do like to keep the option open. That's why when I bought my used L2500 and the previous owner had modded it with the 6-32 mod, I took it off!

What I've done to all my L2500s is to put threaded inserts to hold the bridge on and use stainless 8-32 socket head cap screws to crank that bridge down. It is going nowhere! You have to drill the bridge screw holes out a bit as I recall. I really don't like drilling on my USA G&Ls but this mod is important as far as I can see. If I recall correctly, I think I had to order longer strings the last time I used the through-body stringing, which is why I don't bother since there seems to be little advantage.

The threaded inserts and cap screws should definitely eliminate any possibility of bridge lift. But, for me, I don't want to do any modification that is not 100% reversible. So, it's screws through the string-thru-body holes for me! If I ever want to change back to thru-body stringing, it's certainly easy enough to take the screws back out when I am changing the strings.
 
Careful on that 6-8 weeks. I ordered mine in the middle of December and my buddy here on TB ordered his a week before. We both ordered different SB-1s and we are still waiting. Haven't even heard a word yet. I only say that cause of getting your hopes up. I did. I should be jamming on it as we speak.

Yeah, when I got a new neck for my L2500, I learned that they make stuff in batches. E.g. they make a batch of JBs, then they'll make a batch of L-2000s, then they'll make a batch of something else. Etc.. So, the wait time can vary quite a bit. If you happen to get your order in right as they are starting to make the model you ordered, you might get it in 2 weeks. If you order right AFTER they finish a batch of your model, then you have to wait until they make batches of everything else and come back around to making another batch of the model you ordered.
 
Careful on that 6-8 weeks. I ordered mine in the middle of December and my buddy here on TB ordered his a week before. We both ordered different SB-1s and we are still waiting. Haven't even heard a word yet. I only say that cause of getting your hopes up. I did. I should be jamming on it as we speak.

Thanks for the heads up, although I'm not too concerned. I've got plenty of other basses to play in the mean time and I'm still looking to sell another J-Bass before this one arrives. :bassist:
 
Thanks for the heads up, although I'm not too concerned. I've got plenty of other basses to play in the mean time and I'm still looking to sell another J-Bass before this one arrives. :bassist:



I hear ya there. I do have another G&L so it's helping with my fix. It just sucks waiting. They told me 8-10 weeks. Makes me wonder how some people can custom order basses and wait 2 years. That would drive me insane!
 
I started with a beat up F100 (edit) with a bit of a twisted neck. I really like the sonic options available with the passive wiring. I had a great setup guy tweak it and it plays and sounds great up and down the neck. It has a bit of a thinner neck which hurts my wrist in the middle of the neck. I like that I can play without worrying about damage. I will let my son play this one as well.

I bought another F100 (edit) in better shape, but it always sounded a bit shrill so I sold it.

I bought a 2012 special collection ASAT classic S. The new std neck size is perfect for me and the extra middle pickup adds options. I really liked the honey ale finish, pick guard and wanted a tele style guitar.

Then I just bought a Fallout. I wanted a body and arm contoured guitar that was super comfortable to play. I was really interested in the P90 pup and it did not disappoint. It also has one of the first bridge pups I like the sound of.

All these guitars are hard tail bridge. I never really liked the boingy sound of vibrato bridges.

I did have an old Heartfield EX a while ago. It had a Floyd Rose bridge, ugh what a pain to change a string and maintain tune. Bad place to start.