• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

G&L Club Part 7

I haven't posted here in quite a while, but it is great to come back and read all this great info, especially from an inside source at G&L. I've followed them on FB, and the stuff they post is beautiful. After a while of not playing, I played a gig yesterday and used one of my G&L L2500s. The week or so of practicing was enjoyable, and it sounded great during the gig. The only thing I struggled with was that the one I used doesn't have dots on the fretboard - I guess I'm not quite as used to it as I should have been (my fault, not the bass). I can't rave enough about these basses - they are the best I've played.

And for reference, here is the one I played yesterday. I don't have any of my own photos of it, so here is the for-sale thread in which I bought it (photos by user Jeff A Jensen).
SOLD - F/S Only G&L Custom Shop L-2500

Here are my other two G&Ls - I call the sunburst L2500 "The Moneymaker" - it ALWAYS sounds good on a gig or recording session, and I've played it on a LOT of gigs.
Help Me to Like Blue Basses-Show Me Your Blue Basses

That fretboard is amazing! WOW!
 
Have you considered fretboard decals?
avq2l0.jpg
I would, but that would cover up the birdseye maple fingerboard - the whole reason I bought the bass in the first place!
 
Ok, thanks. How much would a tech charge for that? Also is it normal to get a pop sound when going through the different switches?

Shaun
Shaun,
I don't know how much it would cost (I'm up here in Canada) and I've never paid for a shielding job.
It could be a job you could do yourself though; there's lots of info right here at TalkBass (just use the search feature)

The Tribute line may have more noise problems than the US models, being it's an off-shore model, and I think the preamp is not the same , in short, I can't say.
B.
 
I've never heard of a break-in period for switches and pots. If agree that it sounds like a grounding problem.

I've got a US L-2000 with no shielding, but it's well grounded and dead silent.

Also, re: Tribute vs. US electronics - pickups are the same, but the rest of the circuit is only spec'd the same. Pots, circuit board, etc. are made offshore.
 
G&L basses have been known to have shielding (or lack of) problems. Check out the cavities for shielding, if it is unsufficient, then you'll have to get it done.
B.

That's so true. I've had several G&L's (Tribute and US) and the amount of shielding—if any—has been variable. Even if the cavity appears to be painted with graphite conductive paint, check the conductivity point-to-point along the paint, and between that paint and the pot shells. Often it's only one coat and there can be 100's of ohms of resistance still there. Given the attention to detail in so many other features of G&L basses, the lack of attention/consistency on this point is surprising.
 
That's so true. I've had several G&L's (Tribute and US) and the amount of shielding—if any—has been variable. Even if the cavity appears to be painted with graphite conductive paint, check the conductivity point-to-point along the paint, and between that paint and the pot shells. Often it's only one coat and there can be 100's of ohms of resistance still there. Given the attention to detail in so many other features of G&L basses, the lack of attention/consistency on this point is surprising.

Maybe the finishing and the conductive paint are all done by a finishing subcontractor?