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G&L Club Part 7

#4,181
JES said:
Hi Everyone:

I've been seeing some 1990s SB-2s for sale lately and I have an SB-2 on the brain. I've only played 2010s SB-2s with the #8 neck. I am wondering about the differences. Apart from the 6 vs 3-bolt neck joint and the truss rod is the shape or dimensions of the neck any different--especially the depth? Did they have different fretboard radii? Are the body dimensions and shape the same? Did anything else change? I'm thinking @Chef might know, and I'm told @craigb is an expert but perhaps there are others in this thread. I posted on bassesbyleo and Ken was helpful but otherwise, it's crickets. TIA!
Click to expand...

The #6 necks I've had felt rounder on the back than the #8 and #7 necks. The #5 neck is like the #6, but with a 1.75" nut. The 98' butterscotch one below had a #5 neck, which is kinda uncommon. I always thought the thicker #5 necks added a little more heft to the sound. I like all the G&L necks but I'm not super picky about neck shapes.

100_0237.jpg
 
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#4,182
I am looking to put an order in for a G&L 4 string. I have played mainly 5 strings for years, so I am no stranger around necks 1.75" wide at the nut (Roscoe) and 1.875" (Nordy VP5). I played a G&L with the 1 5/8" wide neck and 9.5" radius, and it was fine. Can anyone comment on the playability and feel of the 1 5/8" wide neck with 7.5" radius and the 1.75" wide neck (either 7.5" or 9.5" radius)? I have not been able to find a 4 string G&L with a 1.75" neck locally, so if anyone here has experience with these, I would appreciate some feedback.

I did read on TB that the 1.75" wide neck of the '80s was more shallow than the current necks ... so that may not be a good a comparison.
 
#4,186
I'm wondering what era those L1K and L2K diagrams are from? My 1980 L1K features a 3-way switch with humbucking / single coil / OMG positions. Also, the jack is on the control plate in the typical Fender spot. Is this diagram of the current versions?
 
#4,188
TomB said:
I'm wondering what era those L1K and L2K diagrams are from? My 1980 L1K features a 3-way switch with humbucking / single coil / OMG positions. Also, the jack is on the control plate in the typical Fender spot. Is this diagram of the current versions?
Click to expand...

I believe the single coil and OMG are mods to the standard configuration, therefore they would not be on the diagram.
 
#4,189
tsl said:
I am looking to put an order in for a G&L 4 string. I have played mainly 5 strings for years, so I am no stranger around necks 1.75" wide at the nut (Roscoe) and 1.875" (Nordy VP5). I played a G&L with the 1 5/8" wide neck and 9.5" radius, and it was fine. Can anyone comment on the playability and feel of the 1 5/8" wide neck with 7.5" radius and the 1.75" wide neck (either 7.5" or 9.5" radius)? I have not been able to find a 4 string G&L with a 1.75" neck locally, so if anyone here has experience with these, I would appreciate some feedback.

I did read on TB that the 1.75" wide neck of the '80s was more shallow than the current necks ... so that may not be a good a comparison.
Click to expand...

I can't comment on the 9.5" radius necks, as I've yet to play one (from G&L at least; it's standard Fender spec), but the 1.75" with 7.5" radius is heavenly if you like vintage P specs. And I will agree that my '89 is thinner than my '93. I actually think the size of the '93 is very comfortable, not overwhelming. Their 5-string neck, while measuring out to 1.75" width, is much thicker front-to-back.
 
#4,190
JES said:
Hi Everyone:

I've been seeing some 1990s SB-2s for sale lately and I have an SB-2 on the brain. I've only played 2010s SB-2s with the #8 neck. I am wondering about the differences. Apart from the 6 vs 3-bolt neck joint and the truss rod is the shape or dimensions of the neck any different--especially the depth? Did they have different fretboard radii? Are the body dimensions and shape the same? Did anything else change? I'm thinking @Chef might know, and I'm told @craigb is an expert but perhaps there are others in this thread. I posted on bassesbyleo and Ken was helpful but otherwise, it's crickets. TIA!
Click to expand...

You've got the various construction differences (bi-cut neck vs non-compression truss rod, 3 vs 6 bolt neck attachment, microtilt, plek on the more recent ones) that I know of. I don't notice a difference in body shape. In general with the selection of basses I've actually held I find the newer construction necks to tend to be a little thicker front-to-back than the older ones on average. I qualify that with "on average" because the older necks had, I believe, the final shaping hand finished so they had more variation. I've run into 3 1.5" nut width necks that didn't agree with me - 2 were too thick (SB1, SB2) and 1 was too thin (JB2), both on the older side of things. The more recent ones while tending towards a touch thicker (and I assume with less variation on the dimensions) have all been fine.

I seem to not care/notice fretboard radius. #6, #8, or specified radius doesn't matter to me as long as the nut width is 1.5" and the neck is neither too thick nor too thin.

Some of my favorite SB2s have been lightweight 90s SB2s -- great tone, great comfort, and not too expensive. I wouldn't hesitate to get another if the circumstances were right. They are also older and so some might have more issues with frets, necks, etc. but hopefully if they've survived this long in good shape they are good ones.
 
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#4,195
joebar said:
in Ed Freidlands video of the M2500, he mentions the M PU's are in series but then go parallel when both on...I don't know if that is true or possible but it is what he said
Click to expand...

He might have said (or meant) that the pickups are wired to each other in parallel, like Jazz bass pickups. Within each pickup, the coils are wired together in series. I haven't watched the video in awhile, and don't remember that part.
 
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#4,197
TDR1138 said:
I can't comment on the 9.5" radius necks, as I've yet to play one (from G&L at least; it's standard Fender spec), but the 1.75" with 7.5" radius is heavenly if you like vintage P specs. And I will agree that my '89 is thinner than my '93. I actually think the size of the '93 is very comfortable, not overwhelming. Their 5-string neck, while measuring out to 1.75" width, is much thicker front-to-back.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback! Anyone else?
 
#4,198
Haven't posted in a while. Red is my number one bass....heavy as hell and the neck is a bit wobbly(has a mild ski ramp) but it plays and sounds incredible. It's my first G&L so it has sentimental value.
Picked up the blue one recently. It's in excellent condition.
Doubt this would ever come to be but a perfect bass for me would be a Jazz body, L2x00 pickups and preamp and neck with 1.75 nut/9.5 radius.
IMAG0531_zpsih4kcutt.jpg

IMAG0529_zps25io1nx2.jpg
 
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#4,199
I haven't posted here in quite a while, but it is great to come back and read all this great info, especially from an inside source at G&L. I've followed them on FB, and the stuff they post is beautiful. After a while of not playing, I played a gig yesterday and used one of my G&L L2500s. The week or so of practicing was enjoyable, and it sounded great during the gig. The only thing I struggled with was that the one I used doesn't have dots on the fretboard - I guess I'm not quite as used to it as I should have been (my fault, not the bass). I can't rave enough about these basses - they are the best I've played.

And for reference, here is the one I played yesterday. I don't have any of my own photos of it, so here is the for-sale thread in which I bought it (photos by user Jeff A Jensen).
SOLD - F/S Only G&L Custom Shop L-2500

Here are my other two G&Ls - I call the sunburst L2500 "The Moneymaker" - it ALWAYS sounds good on a gig or recording session, and I've played it on a LOT of gigs.
Help Me to Like Blue Basses-Show Me Your Blue Basses
 
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