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G&L Club Part 7

What differences are there between a US G&L SB2 neck and a Tribute SB2 neck? Fret work? Radius? Profile? That sort of stuff.

Thanks!
Tribute neck…4 string.
  • NECK WOOD: Hard-Rock Maple with Maple or Rosewood fingerboard
  • NECK WIDTH AT NUT: 1 3/4"
  • NECK RADIUS: 12"
  • NECK PROFILE: medium C
  • FRETS: 21 medium jumbo, nickel
  • TUNING KEYS: Traditional open-back
USA-made necks.

1 5/8" Medium C 1 5/8" nut width sits right between the traditional P and J bass widths, and Leo offered this nut width in the '80s. Generous edge roll with a medium depth and taper from 0.820" at 1st fret to 0.940" at 12th fret. These specs were part of the #11 and #12 necks.
ORDER CODE: 12NK
1 1/2″ Medium C 1 ½" nut width traditional to a J bass, Leo brought it with him to Fender Avenue for the ASAT Bass and SB-2. 1 1/2" nut width, generous edge roll, and medium taper from 0.820" at 1st fret to 0.920" at 12th fret. These specs were part of the #6 and #8 necks.
ORDER CODE: 8NK
1 ¾" Medium C 1 ¾" nut width traditional to a P bass, Leo brought it with him to Fender Avenue for the L-2000 and other models. 1 3/4" nut width, generous edge roll, medium taper from 0.820" at 1st fret to 0.940" at 12th fret. These specs were part of the #5 and #7 necks.
ORDER CODE: 7NK
1 ¾" Medium C 5 1 ¾" nut width, generous edge roll, medium taper from 0.820" at 1st fret to 0.940" at 12th fret. Starts out just like the 4-string 1 ¾" medium C and fans out to a wider heel. These specs were part of the #10 neck. For 5-string basses only.
ORDER CODE: 10NK
Modern C 5 Exclusive to the JB-5. 1.775″ nut width, generous edge roll, medium taper from 0.810″ at 1st fret to 0.910″ at 12th fret.
NOTE: * All profiles have a +/- 0.015″ tolerance
EFFECTIVE
DATE:
Most of the above neck profile names and specifications became effective with orders received to the factory July 1, 2015 and later. To see the earlier neck profile numbering system, [Invalid or Expired Link Removed].

TUNING KEYS: Custom G&L "Ultra-Lite" with aluminum tapered string posts

NECK RADIUS
7 1/2″ This is close to the vintage 7 ¼" radius of the '50s and '60s, and feels virtually the same yet allows a bit more note bending before a note will "choke" or "fret out".
ORDER CODE: R75
9 1/2″ A nice mid-way point between the vintage radius and a modern 12" radius. Standard on most bass models.
ORDER CODE: R95
12″ Flatter for ease when soloing.
ORDER CODE: R12


FRETS
Medium Jumbo Jescar 57110 18{01b19551d13160baabbac29b7f6713e0db54acaea27843d457e60778ae4b3883} Nickel Silver fretwire is standard on all G&L Made-In-Fullerton basses. A great balance.
ORDER CODE: MJF
Stainless Steel Medium Jumbo Jescar 57110 Stainless Steel fretwire is extra durable for longetivity. Recommended for extensive touring or musicians with an aggressive playing style. Not available with 7 1/2″ radius.
ORDER CODE: SS
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] Jescar 43080 18{01b19551d13160baabbac29b7f6713e0db54acaea27843d457e60778ae4b3883} Nickel Silver fretwire. For players who prefer the slim frets of '50s and '60s Leo instruments
ORDER CODE: VF


NECK WOODS AND FINGERBOARDS
Quartersawn Hard Rock Maple This method of cutting the maple boards results in the endgrain being directed about 45° to 90° from the face of the fingerboard. This cut results in a more stable neck and is recommended for players who tour as it better withstands substantial changes in temperature and humidity.
ORDER CODE: QS
Flatsawn Hard Rock Maple Standard on guitars and basses, Hard Rock Maple is strong and stable.
ORDER CODE: NOT APPLICABLE
Ebony Fingerboard About as bright sounding as Maple, Ebony is dark, smooth and popular with
players who like a "fast" feel.
ORDER CODE: EB
Caramel Ebony Fingerboard Ebony with naturally occurring caramel color streaks and swirls.
ORDER CODE: CE
Ebony Fretless Choose with or without white inlaid ghostlines.
ORDER CODE: FEB for no ghost lines
ORDER CODE: FEBG for white inlaid ghost lines
Rosewood Fretless Choose with or without white inlaid ghostlines.
ORDER CODE: FRW for no gBASS host lines
ORDER CODE: FRWG for white inlaid ghost lines


NECK FINISH OPTIONS
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] Has a hue of an aged finish. Can work well for both a vintage or modern look.
Not recommended with Wood Binding on a Swamp Ash body (doesn't match well).
ORDER CODE: VTGN
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] Has a hue of an aged finish with the modern feel of a satin finish. Can work well for both a vintage or modern look. Not recommended with Wood Binding on a Swamp Ash body (doesn't match well).
ORDER CODE: VTSN
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] More of a subtle hue than Vintage Gloss, adds character and warmth to the look.
Versatile.
ORDER CODE: LTGN
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] More of a subtle hue than Vintage Gloss with the modern feel of a satin finish. Adds character and warmth to the look. Versatile.
ORDER CODE: LTSN
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] A great choice for use with a Natural Gloss finish.
ORDER CODE: CGN
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] Standard on most models, satin is smooth and easy playing.
ORDER CODE: CSN
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] Painted Headstock (choose body matching or Jet Black)


ORDER CODE: PH for body matching

ORDER CODE: BH for Jet Black headstock

Jet Black headstock automatically comes with Silver-on-Black G&L logo and Model Logo Delete. It is strongly recommended to choose either Silver-on-Black or Black-on-Silver G&L logo and Model Logo Delete on other Painted Headstock colors.

Painted headstock not available in Blackburst, Blonde, Butterscotch Blonde, Lemon Drop, Vintage Natural.

Gloss Headstock Face Gloss finish on the front of the headstock only. Combine with standard CSN, LTSN or VTGN.
ORDER CODE: GH
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] White neck binding ORDER CODE: NBW
Black neck binding ORDER CODE: NBB
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] White pearl block inlays ORDER CODE: BIW
Black block inlays ORDER CODE: BIB
Graph-Tech nut Self-lubricating to reduce friction, allowing the string to travel more smoothly between the nut as tension changes due to string bends.
ORDER CODE: GTN
Model Logo Delete No model logo on the headstock. ORDER CODE: LD
silver-on-black G&L logo treble clef and border are silver. Use on dark colored headstocks. Requires Model Logo Delete. ORDER CODE: SBL
black-on-silver G&L logo treble clef and border are black. Use on light colored headstocks. Requires Model Logo Delete. ORDER CODE: BSL
 
Last edited:
This is what will happen . . .
View attachment 2916052

I checked and I didn't write myself any notes about how it went or how it sounded. IIRC they fit well enough - no routing or anything - but I have a vague recollection that the kind of "sat on top". Like they didn't "drop into" the routes like the DiMarzio's I used recently did, but I think that worked correctly for these pickups (they aren't a thick covered pickup that drops into the route and slides up& down on the foam). Sonically I liked them better than the OEM pickups (but I've liked everything better than the OEM pickups, including Trib JB2 pickups). I am thinking about changing out the pickups on my current Trib JB2 and will say these did not make a big enough impression on me that they had come to mind as what to get (although they do look fabulous).

On push-pull pots I have used the short ones (1215) from StewMac for series/parallel switching on JB2s: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Hmmmm . . . probably need to order some more. I am considering DiMarzio Model Js in my Trib JB2 with 3 push-pull pots for series/parallel on each pickup and for the pickups themselves. It's wired up full time series with the OEM pickups right now and I'm happy with it with one exception - I wish the pickups had adjustable poles so I could balance it precisely how I want for how I have it set up.

I agree, they do look fabulous.
 
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drool

27578979_374536993018933_2188072261473271808_n.jpg
 
I am considering DiMarzio Model Js in my Trib JB2 with 3 push-pull pots for series/parallel on each pickup and for the pickups themselves. It's wired up full time series with the OEM pickups right now and I'm happy with it with one exception - I wish the pickups had adjustable poles so I could balance it precisely how I want for how I have it set up.

Model Js do have adjustable poles...
 
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This is what will happen . . .
View attachment 2916052

I checked and I didn't write myself any notes about how it went or how it sounded. IIRC they fit well enough - no routing or anything - but I have a vague recollection that the kind of "sat on top". Like they didn't "drop into" the routes like the DiMarzio's I used recently did, but I think that worked correctly for these pickups (they aren't a thick covered pickup that drops into the route and slides up& down on the foam). Sonically I liked them better than the OEM pickups (but I've liked everything better than the OEM pickups, including Trib JB2 pickups). I am thinking about changing out the pickups on my current Trib JB2 and will say these did not make a big enough impression on me that they had come to mind as what to get (although they do look fabulous).

On push-pull pots I have used the short ones (1215) from StewMac for series/parallel switching on JB2s: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Hmmmm . . . probably need to order some more. I am considering DiMarzio Model Js in my Trib JB2 with 3 push-pull pots for series/parallel on each pickup and for the pickups themselves. It's wired up full time series with the OEM pickups right now and I'm happy with it with one exception - I wish the pickups had adjustable poles so I could balance it precisely how I want for how I have it set up.

I already love the pickups in my franken-jazz, and I don't like the stock ones in the JB-2. Seemed like the obvious choice to me. And yes they look fabulous!! (Apologies for a non-G&L pic)

Joni Lipstick.jpg
 
Sorry if this is a bit of a derail.... i scored an amazing Margarita Metallic green LB100 ..its a 2014 and looks like it has never touched another hand other than my own.
So i fell in love with it the moment i plugged it in. The neck albeit a tad chunky..felt good...frets are amazing...sounded great....there wasnt much not to love.
I decided that this was the bass that i liked enough, to tweak a bit...to cater to ME. I bought a Stellartone BASS TEN. Installed it..... then did some things that would make a luthier faint. I sanded the neck to suit my tastes...i gave it a mild V shape ...similar to my Wal. Then i used some Tung-Oil for protection and stability.
The Tonestyler BASS TEN, has turned this into my number ONE..the neck tweak, solidified it. The tones i get out of this thing just make me smile and grin and it makes me want to play longer. Absolute perfection for me. The reason for my blabbling on....is i read often about guys not liking something about a bass...then flipping it...losing money and being disappointed (this is from all brands)... we all buy vehicles/motorcycles and add little things to them to make them OURS...zero thought given to make these changes to a car or truck. But with basses..its sooo taboo and everyone worries about resale value dropping after they tamper with it. Its a bass!!! The resale will be sh!tty regardless!! Why not make something awesome while YOU own it? Keep original parts - offer them with the re-sale and it will be NO different. I wouldnt tamper with a vintage Fender P or J....most others, hell's yes! So, good on you guys that make these tweaks - it shows (to me) that you saw potential in a bass you love. If you saw a dorky girl at a bar that was kinda cute, great body, but had hideous glasses and messy hair, would ya not think about takin her home, hose her down, toss a hair brush at her, showed her how to buy contact lenses, wine her, dine her...get to know her a bit? Might just turn her into a sleeper. Lovin all the pics too guys. Custom Shop, here i come :)
 
Here is my G&L Tribute L-2000 which arrived this week.
Obviously not a MIA but I aint complaining.
It sounds great and the quality is top notch!

View attachment 2915409

The first thing I did after the Bass arrived was to replace the stock D'Addario Nickelwound Roundwounds with EB Flatwound Cobalts. The EB Flatwound gauges are exactly the same as the stock strings so no nut filing was necessary.
Happy Days!
 
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Sorry if this is a bit of a derail.... i scored an amazing Margarita Metallic green LB100 ..its a 2014 and looks like it has never touched another hand other than my own.
So i fell in love with it the moment i plugged it in. The neck albeit a tad chunky..felt good...frets are amazing...sounded great....there wasnt much not to love.
I decided that this was the bass that i liked enough, to tweak a bit...to cater to ME. I bought a Stellartone BASS TEN. Installed it..... then did some things that would make a luthier faint. I sanded the neck to suit my tastes...i gave it a mild V shape ...similar to my Wal. Then i used some Tung-Oil for protection and stability.
The Tonestyler BASS TEN, has turned this into my number ONE..the neck tweak, solidified it. The tones i get out of this thing just make me smile and grin and it makes me want to play longer. Absolute perfection for me. The reason for my blabbling on....is i read often about guys not liking something about a bass...then flipping it...losing money and being disappointed (this is from all brands)... we all buy vehicles/motorcycles and add little things to them to make them OURS...zero thought given to make these changes to a car or truck. But with basses..its sooo taboo and everyone worries about resale value dropping after they tamper with it. Its a bass!!! The resale will be sh!tty regardless!! Why not make something awesome while YOU own it? Keep original parts - offer them with the re-sale and it will be NO different. I wouldnt tamper with a vintage Fender P or J....most others, hell's yes! So, good on you guys that make these tweaks - it shows (to me) that you saw potential in a bass you love. If you saw a dorky girl at a bar that was kinda cute, great body, but had hideous glasses and messy hair, would ya not think about takin her home, hose her down, toss a hair brush at her, showed her how to buy contact lenses, wine her, dine her...get to know her a bit? Might just turn her into a sleeper. Lovin all the pics too guys. Custom Shop, here i come :)
OMG, that "hose her down" part ... I dunno ... I'm kinda ashamed of myself and feeling like a Neanderthal for laughing at that .... but I couldn't help seeing the mental image you put in my head. I still laughed.
 
True. It took me a while to warm up to mine, but I finally started to REALLY like it once i put Lo Riders on it (my favorite strings), although I still couldn't dial out that aggressive tone when I wanted to do that.

I actually considered selling/trading the bass but decided to give it one more try and put Chromes on it and that made a huge difference for me. I still get all the snarl I might need but the flats tone it down just enough to get the versatility I hadn't gotten out of it until then and they also eliminate annoying string noise when I do get it snarling.

I had a couple of people question why I'd put a leash on a bass that was designed to be aggressive, but I think an L-2500 is a great bass for flats. I love mine.

I'm with you on this. I was not a fan of the stock D'addario strings that came on both my SB-2 and L2K so I changed both sets to Pressurewounds and I love the pairing. They do a good job of subduing some of the aggression of the MFD's while still giving me room to make it snarl when I choose to do so. I think it only makes sense to try and find a tonal balance in this way.
 
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Model Js do have adjustable poles...

That's why they are the ones being considered :) I liked them well enough in a US JB2 I had a short while back and one is permanently installed in the bridge position on my Rumblefish PJ . . . I'm just torn between working with it as it is and doing the project.
 
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You and me both sister! I've been going back and forth between a Kiloton, L2K or a CLF L2K. First world problems, right?

I've never tried a Kiloton (I just ordered one though) but L2000s are pretty awesome instruments. I would probably get the CLF L2K if I was getting a L2K at all due to the sweet control plate and headstock.

I opted for the Kiloton because I prefer the passive G&L instruments, and I've played a SB-1, and SB-2 quite a bit. I currently own a SB-1, sold the SB-2.

The Kiloton is sort of my attempt at getting a blend of the L2000/L1500 with a SB. The low B seems like it sounds great from what I saw in the only review they have for it on Youtube.
 
Awesome! I couldn't find a pic exactly like what I ordered, but I guessed what it would look like from some pics of other G&L instruments, sort of blended in my mind.

I opted for satin finish, is yours like that? I'd love to see a pic.
There are several pictures of it sprinkled throughout this thread, but I'm not going to make you go searching for them. I'll post some when I get home from work tonight, I'll just use it as another excuse to post some gratuitous L-2500 photos. :D
 
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Awesome! I couldn't find a pic exactly like what I ordered, but I guessed what it would look like from some pics of other G&L instruments, sort of blended in my mind.

I opted for satin finish, is yours like that? I'd love to see a pic.
There are several pictures of it sprinkled throughout this thread, but I'm not going to make you go searching for them. I'll post some when I get home from work tonight, I'll just use it as another excuse to post some gratuitous L-2500 photos. :D

Gratuitous G&L porn coming your way ......

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