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G&L Club Part 7

#18,541
Ricky Rioli said:
Buy all four. Swap the two maple necks for the two rosewood. Then swap the pickguards:
Sunburst, tort, rosewood.
Black, black, rosewood.
Pink, white, maple.
Orange, pearloid, maple.
Sell the other three for MSRP to three grateful purchasers.

EDIT: or just wait for the factory to put the wrong neck on one :banghead:
Click to expand...
I thought about checking on a custom order, then I remembered their history with necks.

I've already done a rosewood for maple swap on a Sterling short scale. Both basses improved in looks in my opinion and both of us are much happier.
 
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#18,543
Spupilup said:
I made the mistake of posting the video in a new thread the minute I got the email instead of checking here first. Anyone know how much they'll be charging for this American made Fallout?
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FretNation are listing it for $1299. Fullerton Deluxe editions are gig bag rather than hard case. The one in that listing is alder and 8.3 lbs.

Edit: for reference, they list the Tribute versions at $659
 
#18,544
Ricky Rioli said:
FretNation are listing it for $1299. Fullerton Deluxe editions are gig bag rather than hard case. The one in that listing is alder and 8.3 lbs.

Edit: for reference, they list the Tribute versions at $659
Click to expand...

I seem to recall that $1299 was what the first edition Fallout's were supposed to cost. I guess that racing stripe must have cost a fortune to apply.

Any reason why the Tributes weigh so much? I went with a SBMM Stingray Short Scale and it weighs 7 lbs. 5 oz. All the Tributes are at least a pound or more in weight.
 
#18,550
After about 2 weeks,got white pearl pick guard from Chandler/Pickguard Heaven. Just got it Saturday,and all screws holes matched,for the 1998 1st Gen LB100. Had to drill the holes,for pot shafts,and the jack. Should have been 5/16 holes. Other than that perfect fit. I noticed the original pick guard had the original number stamped on the back,604,is how Chandler had them listed for G&L. Seems to have brightened it up
IMG_0551.jpg
quite a bit?
 
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#18,551
Chrome Dome said:
After about 2 weeks,got white pearl pick guard from Chandler/Pickguard Heaven. Just got it Saturday,and all screws holes matched,for the 1998 1st Gen LB100. Had to drill the holes,for pot shafts,and the jack. Should have been 5/16 holes. Other than that perfect fit. I noticed the original pick guard had the original number stamped on the back,604,is how Chandler had them listed for G&L. Seems to have brightened it upView attachment 4096522 quite a bit?
Click to expand...

Looks pretty good to me! Congrats!
 
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#18,552
Chrome Dome said:
After about 2 weeks,got white pearl pick guard from Chandler/Pickguard Heaven. Just got it Saturday,and all screws holes matched,for the 1998 1st Gen LB100. Had to drill the holes,for pot shafts,and the jack. Should have been 5/16 holes. Other than that perfect fit. I noticed the original pick guard had the original number stamped on the back,604,is how Chandler had them listed for G&L. Seems to have brightened it upView attachment 4096522 quite a bit?
Click to expand...
Looks great! The white cover is a nice touch with the pearl pickguard.
 
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#18,556
richwag said:
I have an L2000, SB-2 and MJ-4 (active jazz). Which bass do you think would show case their sound best?
Click to expand...

I would do one of the MFD equipped ones. It takes some of the edge off of them that I typically found myself rolling off treble to control.

I love them on my L2500 and L5000. I found the difference to be more significant on the L5000 only because it lacks the preamp flexibility of the L2500. With that in mind probably the SB2 over the L2000. They will be great on either though IMO.

Probably not worth mentioning but I will anyway. The TI Jazz Rounds are also fantastic strings once you get used to the low tension. I have them on my JB5 and have been very happy with them.
 
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#18,557
richwag said:
I just picked up some TI flat wounds after having heard so much about them and am having a hard time deciding which bass to try them on.

I have an L2000, SB-2 and MJ-4 (active jazz). Which bass do you think would show case their sound best?
Click to expand...

Well I'm not sure which bass you SHOULD use them on, but I'm keen to hear your opinion if you decide to put them on the L2000.

Some context - I've always been a rounds boy, and 90% of my playing is live. My bass of choice is my L2000.
Lately I've been wanting to do more recording due to a few COVID projects. I like some vintage drive in my playing tone, but what I've found is that with rounds the L2000 exhibits some high mid harmonics and crunch that isn't present when I play through a live rig. I can't seem to dial it out even dialing the treble pot nearly right off.

I'm thinking flats, or even something like GHS Pressurewounds may be the answer - I think it's an inherent thing in the roundwound tone and the type of overdrive I go for (and lately I've tried a bunch to see if I can find a round without this inherent tone - D'Addario XLs, D'Addario NYXLs, DR Steel Lo-Riders, DR Fatbeams, DR Sunbeams, EB Nickel Slinkies, GHS Boomers - they all have it).

So my next decision is what string....I don't have many I can try locally...

EB Cobalt Flats (from memory sounded great - almost like a round straight out of the box but smelled funny. metallic?).
D'Addario Chromes
D'Addario Half Rounds
GHS Pressurewounds

Not really asking opinions, just an observation but happy for anone to chime in. I'm after that front pickup (preferably in parallel) P bass kinda thump, with a bit of low mid OD growl.
 
#18,558
To answer @jcburn first, I've had all of the strings described—save the EB Cobalt Flats—on a Tribute L-2000. [BTW, the Cobalts are glorious on an SB-2.] Of the lot mentioned, I think I was happiest with the D'Addario Chromes on the L-2000 and it was wearing those when it left me in favour of my US L-2500. That L-2500 is now wearing DR Pure Blues and loving every minute.

Now to answer @richwag, where I *love* the TI flats is on my M-2500. I had those flats on the L-2500, but didn't find that the B-string was convincing there—fiddle as I would with mounting it correctly. On a 4-string L the verdict might be different—I can't remember what I thought back then but the Chromes did surplant them. My best guess is to suggest putting the TIs on the MJ4. Those strings can sound very nice on active J-basses generally, so likely there.
 
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#18,559
jmlee said:
To answer @jcburn first, I've had all of the strings described—save the EB Cobalt Flats—on a Tribute L-2000. [BTW, the Cobalts are glorious on an SB-2.] Of the lot mentioned, I think I was happiest with the D'Addario Chromes on the L-2000 and it was wearing those when it left me in favour of my US L-2500. That L-2500 is now wearing DR Pure Blues and loving every minute.
Click to expand...

I hope I'm not being a pain asking man - what was it about the Chromes you liked the most? I was hoping the Pressurewounds did the trick for me as I want to retain some of the round wound flavour, but just ditch the clank and zing and how the OD reacts to it.

To be honest I'm gonna try and grab all 3 sets to try but always happy to hear info upfront.
 
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#18,560
jcburn said:
I hope I'm not being a pain asking man - what was it about the Chromes you liked the most? I was hoping the Pressurewounds did the trick for me as I want to retain some of the round wound flavour, but just ditch the clank and zing and how the OD reacts to it.

To be honest I'm gonna try and grab all 3 sets to try but always happy to hear info upfront.
Click to expand...

Good question. Chromes have a certain directness that I like. Hard to define, but they break into a satisfying fatness without sounding flabby. Some folks call them bright flats, and I suppost that's true to an extent, but they retain a midrange directness along with the thump that is satisfying—and they do it for a long time. They're also glassy smooth which I like. The TIs are also mid-rich but never really thump like the Chromes. I think it's why they work on a jazz bass; they fill out the mid-scoop in a good way. They're a bit gummy out of the pack and it takes a *long* time before that's completely gone—mind you, you won't be replacing them for 10 years so...
 
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