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Genz Benz Streamliner Part 9

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#81
The LED's are wired in series, if one fails all 3 will go out.

Occassionally we see a bad blue LED. There is a significant difference in the construction of blue and white LEDs, which use either Sapphire or Silicon Carbide (depending on manufacturer) as the active substrate. Occassionally there will a failure. Incidently, white LEDs are blue LEDs with a phosphor coating that acts to translate emission bandwidth. This is the biggest single challenge facing the general prupose LED illumination industry, where there may be hundreds of LEDs in a single fixture and a single LED failure will be a problem as they are buily up with paralleled series strings fed with constant current sources.

Give Scott or Jeff a call at the factory and they will help you get this resolved under your warranty, no worries. If you are on the west coast, PM me and I'll take care of it at my R&D lab. It's not a DIY project however, there are high voltages inside the Streamliner and while it's a 5 minute job for us, it's not a user serviceable type project.
 
#82
mine also went out not long after I got it. As much as I really love the blue lights in the back ground I can't afford to ship it off just for that, it still sounds fine. Maybe one day when I don't need it 2-3 times a week. Although I do have a backup amp to use, I just want to play the Streamliner :hyper:
 
#83
Not sure why I didn't post this in this thread this morning , not enough coffee I guess but here goes..I am currently running the 610T-XBS with a crown 602 & sansamp RBI, main basses are Sad 5r and SR5 doing funk/jazz/rock fusion. Thinking about going with either a 9.0/9.2 or streamliner 900. For smaller venues I run the same amp setup with either a avatar 2x10 [ 8ohm] or a avatar 2x12 [ 4ohm ] , nothing wrong with the current amp setup just looking for something to make transport easier at times and maybe a tubier sound than my current setup. If anyone here runs a 610T with a shuttle 9.0 or streamline 900. I would appreciate any info on the pairing you could pass along.
 
#85
i was doing a little tube rolling in my STM900 last night, A/B comparing it with my SVT, and i settled with a GE triple mica 5751 in V1, and two NOS amperex 'bugle boys' in V2 and V3. to eq it closer to my SVT running with all of the eq at noon (which i absolutely love), i'm running the STM900's gain at noon, the bass at 10 o'clock, the mid selected to 220Hz at 9:30-10:00 and the treble at 10:30. this takes some of the cloudiness out of it, yet stays really punchy and clear and still has plenty of heft on all of the notes.

i tried another NOS bugle boy in V1 in place of the 5751 and it was a little darker and a bit more cloudy, so the 5751 went back in it, and that's how i'm going to run it from now on.
 
#86
fcoda said:
...I am currently running the 610T-XBS with a crown 602 & sansamp RBI, main basses are Sad 5r and SR5 doing funk/jazz/rock fusion.

...nothing wrong with the current amp setup just looking for something to make transport easier at times and maybe a tubier sound than my current setup.
Click to expand...

Both amps have a great effects loop, and a monster power stage. Don't forget that you can bypass the pre and run your RBI straight in to the back, whenever you feel like a little variety.

Anyway, how much "tubier" do you want to go?

Shuttle 9.2 = a little
Streamliner = a lot
 
#88
Is that a "warm" cab or is it pretty tight & grindy?

If its naturally scooped & warm, the 9.2max is a better fit, the 900 could be too much. If the 610 tight, grindy, weak in the low end... the 900 is a better fit, IMO
 
#90
It might get a little heavy in the bottom end (maybe not, though), but shouldn't be anything you have trouble EQ-ing out. I have an SWR Goliath III, which is a ported 410, and was a little boomy on the bottom end with my SVT-III Pro, but sounds really good with my STM900. I simply run EQ with Bass at 12.00, Mid at 12.30 (selector at 2.5k), treble at 11.00, and it sounds really thick and gorgeous. The more I play this amp, the more I like it.
 
#91
agedhorse said:
The LED's are wired in series, if one fails all 3 will go out.

Occassionally we see a bad blue LED. There is a significant difference in the construction of blue and white LEDs, which use either Sapphire or Silicon Carbide (depending on manufacturer) as the active substrate. Occassionally there will a failure. Incidently, white LEDs are blue LEDs with a phosphor coating that acts to translate emission bandwidth. This is the biggest single challenge facing the general prupose LED illumination industry, where there may be hundreds of LEDs in a single fixture and a single LED failure will be a problem as they are buily up with paralleled series strings fed with constant current sources.

Give Scott or Jeff a call at the factory and they will help you get this resolved under your warranty, no worries. If you are on the west coast, PM me and I'll take care of it at my R&D lab. It's not a DIY project however, there are high voltages inside the Streamliner and while it's a 5 minute job for us, it's not a user serviceable type project.
Click to expand...



Is this the type of repair that once it's been modified the amp will be "all set"?
In other words it won't blow again once repaired?
 
#92
on a side note, while A/B'ing my STM900 with my SVT (my 4x12 cab has a 2ohm/8ohm switch) i mistakenly (and foolishly! :eek:) forgot to switch it back to 8 ohms when i ran the STM900 and it actually sounded more like my SVT than when running it at 8 ohms. i realize that the head's minumum impedance is 4 ohms, but it didn't seem to hurt anything or go into the 'protect' mode, but now i want to build a dedicated 2x12, 4 ohm cab for it since i found it to sound better running at a lower impedance (it was more open and clearer).
 
#95
just a side note. i was messing around with my VT pedal thru the streamliner today and was able to nearly duplicate my SVT's clean or dirty tones exactly with it. actually the STM900 sounds great without it, and i'll probably use it without the pedal 90% of the time (since i got the head for simplicity's sake), but it really surprised me how close i could get it to sound to an all tube SVT.
 
#97
repoman said:
Is this the type of repair that once it's been modified the amp will be "all set"?
In other words it won't blow again once repaired?
Click to expand...

It's not a blow type thing, it's simply a defective LED. There is no modification involved. Once it's done it's done.
 
#98
TC.65 said:
Hey guys i'm getting ready to swap the tubes in my Streamliner. I have never done this before do they just pull out or what i'm kind of nervous.
Click to expand...

Just a general note on changing tubes, and this applies to every amp out there...

Be sure to check the tube's pins for being straight and seat the tube so the pins align with the center of the pin's contact sockets. I just repaired a "defective" amp and the only thing wrong was one tube pin (a very important one) was bent so that it completely missed the contact.
 
#99
Thanks guys I got them swapped out sounds really good from what I can tell. I can't turn up very loud cause there are people asleep in the house. I will know more as to how it sounds tomorrow when I can turn it up.
 
#100
@agedhorse

The following is in no way a challenge to you or GB, I am simply trying to learn.

I'm not an expert when it comes to LEDs, but mine quit for a few minutes, then came back on, and has been working steadily for several days now. I was under the impression that LEDs either worked or didn't, and once they died, that was it. So, do LEDs come back, or is it possible that the problem is actually somewhere else (loose connection or the like in that circuit)?
 
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