• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Hardwood Dowel Insert?

SurferJoe46

SurferJoe46

Feb 22, 2010
9,057
763
The Bitterroot Mounts, Montana
#1
Thinking (possibly prematurely) here - but I wonder if anyone has ever had to put a hardwood dowel inside the area where the strap pins will be installed to keep the screw threads in the softer body of a custom bass from being damaged with the weight?

I ordered a very light body for a P-bass project that I get to start as soon as the parts show up in the middle of next week, and since I know that there's a lot of pressure on a Dunlop Dual-design straplock, I want to head off the possible problem by drilling and inserting a harder wood that what the body is - to hold the screws.

Seems to me this would be a good time to insert a dowel like that before the finish is put on - right?
 
#2
You're probably overthinking it. What kind of wood is it? If it's a lightweight body, then the strap buttons will have less force acting on them. Just drill the appropriately-sized pilot hole, and you'll be fine.
 
#4
As long as your not using screws less than 3/4" in length your fine. Even if your bass is made of pine, it will hold standard strap peg screws in the appropriate size hole.
Just make sure they stay tight, loose screws will work their way out under weight.
 
#5
I also overthink everything, here is my idea:

1. drill an appropriate sized pilot hole
2. thread in the screw, and then take it back out
3. drip a small amount of water thin CA glue into the hole with a pipette, this will soak into the grain and harden the area
4. reinsert the screw and shred

What do you think?
 
#6
A builder near where I live, Mario Martin @ Guitar Mill, uses pauwlonia quite a bit. I've never seen or played a bass made out of it,(he does offer) but a couple of Teles I checked out were unbelievably light and very resonant. I would love to check out a bass made with it. I worry a bit about dingability, like with basswood. Keep us posted on the build.
 
#7
ia02 said:
I also overthink everything, here is my idea:

1. drill an appropriate sized pilot hole
2. thread in the screw, and then take it back out
3. drip a small amount of water thin CA glue into the hole with a pipette, this will soak into the grain and harden the area
4. reinsert the screw and shred

What do you think?
Click to expand...

Intrigued.

I used CA glues for my days of 3/4 scale pylon racing in the 1970s - full sized, not RCs - and I developed a few tricks for it there too.

I wanted this Pauwlonia body, although I went MM for the neck - and I was just wondering if it had any troubles ahead for me with it's softness and large grain factor.
 
#8
TN WOODMAN said:
A builder near where I live, Mario Martin @ Guitar Mill, uses pauwlonia quite a bit. I've never seen or played a bass made out of it,(he does offer) but a couple of Teles I checked out were unbelievably light and very resonant. I would love to check out a bass made with it. I worry a bit about dingability, like with basswood. Keep us posted on the build.
Click to expand...

I fully intend to document and photograph the process all the way through. I may even take the time to make a vid or two too. We'll see.

Yeah - and although I have my VM-Jazz in natural and therefor a soft wood too, I was wondering as I was reading another post or two on the 'wood hardeners' at Lowe's.

If I knew for certain that these 'hardeners' would not color the wood or cause it to stain, then I would also check them out.

Anyone got any insight on this?
 
#10
I feel inserts are pretty terminal if they fail or get loose later on - great big gaping holes where they used to be if the fall out.

Maybe just the CA first, then maybe longer screws is a gooder (sic) idea too.

The Dunlop Dual strap locks are kinda limiting on the diameter of the screws and I would really prefer to not have to bore them out to comply with a bigger screw.
 
#11
If you bore the straplok buttons out to fit longer screws, they will cease to function. I think the screws are long enough. I really don't think you'll have a problem with them pulling out. Remember: with a lighter wood comes less stress on the strap buttons.

However...Last time I was at home depot, I saw something called "Minwax Wood Hardener". It may be worth looking into. Basically, it is a quick-evaporating liquid that allegedly penetrates the wood and deposits resin, which then hardens. You could drill your holes, then pipette some hardener in, let it dry/harden/cure/whatever, then install your straploks. As a disclaimer, I should state that I've never used the product, but it seems to be designed for applications like this.
 
#13
I've definitely heard of someone doing a dowel insert before.

I've also got in the back if my mind that Dingwall might do that as a matter of course, but I can't confirm or deny that because I don't see his "features and details" part of the site any more.
 
#16
Yes, this is a technique that is sometimes used. I don't believe endgrain holds thread so good and I think Sheldon uses plugs, not dowels. Don't quote me on that but I think I remember him saying that. In any case, hard maple endgrain is going to hold better than pawlonia endgrain, so it couldn't hurt.

Thin CA is also useful but I don't know if it will be the difference between failing and not failing in a real tough application... useful for pickup mounts, cover plates, etc.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back