1. My biggest problem right now is that it seems to not hold the tuning for too long (I'm using the Pyramid Chrome-Nickel Flat Wound 4 String Bass Short Scale 40-100 ). Would it help if I changed the tuning pegs (the one that came with it is a plastic tune peg)? Which model would you suggest?
2. I don't want to touch the "electronic" part of it, but is there another thing that could improve the bass, like changing the bridge?
3. I have family in the UK at the moment, and since I live in a third world country, this could be a great opportunity. Would you guys suggest any trustworthy online dealer in the UK?
The stock tuners were appalling on my Ignition club- stiff and imprecise.
If you don't mind chrome kidney bean buttons instead of plastic, Wilkinson's WJ28n is an inexpensive 3R3L set of tuners that I actually prefer to both the Hofner HCT tuners,
and the Grovers.
Here they are on my Ignition Club:
Note the large gear. That's what gives them the low, 19:1 ratio.
As you can see, they tuck in nice and tidy.
They fit the stock ferrules perfectly, so they are a true drop-in fit- no drilling or reaming needed. The lower gear ratio makes them smooth and effortless to turn, as well as more precise.
Lots of UK vendors carry them, and here's an active Ebay listing if you don't want to bother your relatives:
WILKINSON 3R3L Vintage Open Guitar Tuners Machine Head Parts 19:1 Gear Ratio | eBay
That said, as awful as they were, the stock tuners on my Ignition made it hard to tune, but they didn't slip.
The chief point of tuning instability on mine (aside from the terrible stock strings), was the bridge base. Not only did it not fit the curve of the top properly, but one foot was cut at an angle, causing the bridge rock rock back and forth during play.
Matching the bridge to the top is a normal part of setting up a Hofner (or just about any archtop instrument), even if you buy a brand-new German bridge.
Only the most expensive instruments come perfectly-fitted, because every top is different, and matching the arch is labour intensive:
- Job #1 is to remove the protective shipping foam from under the bridge.
- Job #2 is to mark the current position of the bridge, then tape a piece of 320 grit sandpaper (abrasive side-out) to the top.
Holding the bridge in playing position on top of the sandpaper, apply gentle pressure, then drag it up and down (parallel to the string path) to gradually mate the feet to the curve of the top.
Stop frequently, and flip the bridge over to check your progress. As you sand the bottom of the bridge feet, you'll see a lighter colour where the sandpaper is removing the dye. Unless someone else has already set the bass up, the bare wood colour will only show at one end of each foot. As the bottom of the bridge gradually starts to match the curvature of the top, you should see the natural colour spread across the full width of the foot.
The bridge is now properly mated to your bass.
These three steps (tuners, strings and bridge matching) should make any Chinese-made Hofner feel and sound a lot better.
Most people would be satisfied with the stock HCT tuners, but the Contemporary-series basses need bridge fitment and strings, just like an Ignition.