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Hipshot has twice made me a semi-custom set of Ultralites with short stems (to fit in the hard case) and pearl buttons to look like the originals. SO MUCH BETTER! And the larger posts are easier on the strings. I always worried about breaking a string around the skinny posts.
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I've seen a Club bass with blade pickups for sale in Belgium.
No need for it, but I would like to give it a go, just to find out
what it sounds and plays like.
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≥ Hofner 500/2 Club Bass 1965-1967 — Overige Muziek en Instrumenten — Marktplaats
gorgeous, hope you like it. If those prices at the bottom are right, 2000 euro, that’s a great deal.
I've seen a Club bass with blade pickups for sale in Belgium.
No need for it, but I would like to give it a go, just to find out
what it sounds and plays like.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
≥ Hofner 500/2 Club Bass 1965-1967 — Overige Muziek en Instrumenten — Marktplaats
Because if you go for two 6-string sets of a cheaper drop-in tuner (like the Wilkinsons), you end up with enough tuners for 3 basses!I put a set of these on my Hofner Icon/ Ignition bass, and they work perfectly. Long Shaft Grover, a set of 4.
I didn't have to drill anything. Much better than their original tuners.
Why buy 6 pieces as a guitar set, when you can buy the same tuners as 4 pieces when marked for ukulele?
Grover 18:1 Sta-Tite (U98 Series) Ukulele Tuners with Long String Posts - StewMac
What a beauty! Congrats!Unboxing Day!The bass spent three days riding around in UPS trucks before it reached the redirected destination (a UPS pickup point), and I grabbed it just now. In spite of this, everything is just fine. Thomann sent it inside a much bigger well-packed box, so no crushing observed. Frets feel nice, and as I noted earlier I have the components I want swapped out. Might do the bridge fit myself, seems pretty straightforward. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions; I went with the violin bass because of historical reasons, and I think I'm going to fall in love with it. I have to say, the woods look really nice. All is well!
Now, if someone could tell me how they got the dang stickers off the back of the headstock? I have isopropyl, wife has nail polish remover if either of those would work. I do NOT wanna damage that finish.
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What a beauty! Congrats!
You didn't order a Hofner gig bag?![]()
That day may come, no need as yet. I do have to get it over to a tech for the nut change/setup, but will just use the box it came in. Heck, by the time the upgrades are done, it'll deserve this!
Hofner Ignition or Contemporary Beatle Bass Hard Shell Case | Reverb
Any thoughts on that pesky sticker residue?
Hey everyone! I just picked up a Contemporary Club and have fallen in love with it. I am wondering if modding the electronics could make it even better.
Has anyone tried the German control panel on a Contemporary model? I am wondering if it is worth the money.
Searches have proven inclusive. Some have said it made little difference. Then I found this video:
Sounds like it made a big difference for this guy...but the the thing is, my CT Club sounds less muffled than his before did...in fact, it sounds more like his after. Which is confusing. Any thoughts?
This fellow knows his Höfners...
T
The chief point of tuning instability on mine (aside from the terrible stock strings), was the bridge base. Not only did it not fit the curve of the top properly, but one foot was cut at an angle, causing the bridge rock rock back and forth during play.
Matching the bridge to the top is a normal part of setting up a Hofner (or just about any archtop instrument), even if you buy a brand-new German bridge.
Only the most expensive instruments come perfectly-fitted, because every top is different, and matching the arch is labour intensive:
Holding the bridge in playing position on top of the sandpaper, apply gentle pressure, then drag it up and down (parallel to the string path) to gradually mate the feet to the curve of the top.
- Job #1 is to remove the protective shipping foam from under the bridge.
- Job #2 is to mark the current position of the bridge, then tape a piece of 320 grit sandpaper (abrasive side-out) to the top.
Stop frequently, and flip the bridge over to check your progress. As you sand the bottom of the bridge feet, you'll see a lighter colour where the sandpaper is removing the dye. Unless someone else has already set the bass up, the bare wood colour will only show at one end of each foot. As the bottom of the bridge gradually starts to match the curvature of the top, you should see the natural colour spread across the full width of the foot.
The bridge is now properly mated to your bass.
Hey, Steve! First of all, thanks for the tips. I'm buying the Wilkison you suggested here right now.
The "bridge" part is a little difficult for me. I never did something like that and make me nervous to think I can ruin the bass. I will try to translate what you said and pass the instructions to a luthier. Is it any video of a similar procedure like this so a dumbass like me could understand? Anyway, thanks for all the info again! <3
I don’t believe in McCartney. I just believe in me.Mccartney bless you, my brother
I don’t believe in McCartney. I just believe in me.