Ibanez sr2600 get the lowest action

[Alkaline1985]

Hi guys,

I am seeking to get the lowest action possible in a ibanez sr2600.

The best I got without buzzing noise is around 2,7mm in the 24th fret (E string). In the 12th is quite similar height.

The neck relief is around 0.7mm in the 7/8th fret (fretting 1 and 24).

What do you think about this action?
Do you think i can get lower action without buzzing noise?
If I low the Bridge a little i get noise fretting the middle of the fretboard (11-13th fret aprox).

 

[Jivve]

You can get it lower, but sounds like you need to have the frets leveled. My fender has 1.5ish mm at 12 and 20. About the same relief as you, maybe a tad less. I have a pretty light touch when I play but I can dig in some without buzz.

 

[lark_z]

3 mm is the Fender recommendation, at least for a starting point. You're a tad lower than that. Many would say that the action will end up where it needs to be for your playing style. Heavy = higher, light = lower. If it's buzzing during normal playing then, it's either too low for you or - as @Jivve recommends - it's time for some luthier assistance.

 

[Alkaline1985]

Thank you for your replies.

I Will try with a luthier and see if I can inprove the action

 

[Jivve]

If you have the money and geographical opportunity you can ”PLEK” it. I did it with a guitar, was an ok experience. I have since learned how to level frets myself and gotten similar if not better results, action wise, taking off a lot more metal from the frets though. It’s a lot about who does it, whatever they do. Also, getting the nut slots cut for low action will make a big difference at the first few frets. Good luck in your hunt for low action!

 

[scottfeldstein]

Wait, your neck relief is .7mm? That's like 27 thousandths of an inch, way too bent. It should be less than half of that, around 11 or 12. Get that sorted before you go messing around with string heights. Give your truss rod a quarter turn and see where you end up. I would recommend getting some feeler gauges that measure thousandths of an inch, too. Splitting millimeters by eye is pretty dicey.

When your neck relief is set right, then see what your string heights are.

 

[Alkaline1985]

Wait, your neck relief is .7mm? That's like 27 thousandths of an inch, way too bent. It should be less than half of that, around 11 or 12. Get that sorted before you go messing around with string heights. Give your truss rod a quarter turn and see where you end up. I would recommend getting some feeler gauges that measure thousandths of an inch, too. Splitting millimeters by eye is pretty dicey.

When your neck relief is set right, then see what your string heights are.

Thank you for your reply.
You are right about i could get lower action setting the neck flatter for tapping technique, but for other techniques (probably hard fingerstyle is the most restrictive), with that neck set Up I probably will get buzzing noise un the first frets.

Anyways I Will try to flatter the neck a little bit (i believe i got worse results before)

 

[scottfeldstein]

Thank you for your reply.
You are right about i could get lower action setting the neck flatter for tapping technique, but for other techniques (probably hard fingerstyle is the most restrictive), with that neck set Up I probably will get buzzing noise un the first frets.

Anyways I Will try to flatter the neck a little bit (i believe i got worse results before)

Unless your style is "archery" there's no reason to have neck relief more than 12 thousandths of an inch.

 

[Alkaline1985]

Unless your style is "archery" there's no reason to have neck relief more than 12 thousandths of an inch.

My measurement is in the 7th/8th fret, fretting 1st and 24th fret (i believe the relief you recommend is maybe fretting 1st and 12th or something like that, because 0,012" is too flat).

In mm, i always Saw recomendé relief from 0.3-1mm (0,075-0,25" aprox), measured in the 7 th pressing the 1st and 24th fret

 

[scottfeldstein]

My measurement is in the 7th/8th fret, fretting 1st and 24th fret (i believe the relief you recommend is maybe fretting 1st and 12th or something like that, because 0,012" is too flat).

In mm, i always Saw recomendé relief from 0.3-1mm (0,075-0,25" aprox), measured in the 7 th pressing the 1st and 24th fret

No, I capo the first fret and hold down the fret where the neck meets the body. This covers the part of the fingerboard where the truss rod works. 12 thousandths of an inch is .3 millimeters. Your measurement of .7 is far too bent. Your neck needs to be straighter.

 

[Jivve]

Since you get buzzing around fret 11-13 I doubt the relief is causing it. When I set up basses and guitars I lower the saddles so it doesn’t buzz above the 12th fret. Then adjust the relief to avoid buzzing at 1-7ish frets. Exact measurements for relief is not important in my opinion. If the instrument has its frets leveled the neck will end up pretty straight with minimal relief. Leveled frets are a necessity for really low action.

 

[scottfeldstein]

Since you get buzzing around fret 11-13 I doubt the relief is causing it. When I set up basses and guitars I lower the saddles so it doesn’t buzz above the 12th fret. Then adjust the relief to avoid buzzing at 1-7ish frets. Exact measurements for relief is not important in my opinion. If the instrument has its frets leveled the neck will end up pretty straight with minimal relief. Leveled frets are a necessity for really low action.

This seems backward to me. The way I learned, you set the neck relief first, and then set the string heights by the bridge saddles. And I would never go chasing around after fret buzzes as opposed to making actual measurements. Checking for fret buzzes is what you do after you have measured and adjusted everything.

 

[Razman]

One consideration that took me a long time to realize how it impacted action was instrument tone, especially in the low-mids and midrange. This affects how much different parts of the strings vibrate and does impact my ability to get low action on some basses.

My five string custom has a stronger low-mid and midrange punch than some of my other basses so attempts at getting the strings really low (below 2 mm at the 12th fret, measuring from the bottom of the string to the top of the fret) causes buzzing for my playing techniques. A six string I own has a more scooped tone (less mids) and allows for lower action.

Generally, I try to flatten out a neck of any bass I acquire, drop the strings down to about 2 mm above the 12th fret, check the 22-24th fret for similar height, and go from there. Buzzing around 1-10 frets means add some relief (slight bend upward, i.e. loosen truss rod) and buzzing in the 11-24 fret range means raise the saddles (or lower them if buzzing is absent). Adjust to taste, and it's a balancing act between the overall tone of the bass and your playing techniques.

Raz

 

[Jivve]

This seems backward to me. The way I learned, you set the neck relief first, and then set the string heights by the bridge saddles. And I would never go chasing around after fret buzzes as opposed to making actual measurements. Checking for fret buzzes is what you do after you have measured and adjusted everything.

I’m chasing after the lowest action possible for my playing style. There’s no better way than what I described, to my knowledge that is

1. Level frets.
2. Find lowest possible settings without buzz.

Any other way of doing it, using measurements or what not is just guessing. You either get buzz or you don’t. Measurements will of course get you in the ballpark but from there it’s just trial and error.

 

[scottfeldstein]

This video shows what I learned as the proper way to do it. He does things in the proper order and uses the right tools. However...his target measurements are ridiculous. His neck relief is too bent and his strings are too high. But he does do things in the right order and with the right tools.

 

[Jivve]

This video shows what I learned as the proper way to do it. He does things in the proper order and uses the right tools. However...his target measurements are ridiculous. His neck relief is too bent and his strings are too high. But he does do things in the right order and with the right tools.

I wouldn’t trust that guy to set up my main bass the way I want it It’s just wood and metal. You can basically only turn two screws, truss rod and saddle. To get the lowest possible action, level frets, lower saddles until buzzing at top frets, adjust truss rod until buzzing at low frets. It’s that easy. And of course cut nut slots right. Use measurements as ballpark figures.

With that said. Having really low action will probably require more frequent adjustments since it’s more susceptible to temperature and humidity changes. Learning how to do this yourself will be worth it.

 

[scottfeldstein]

I wouldn’t trust that guy to set up my main bass the way I want it It’s just wood and metal. You can basically only turn two screws, truss rod and saddle. To get the lowest possible action, level frets, lower saddles until buzzing at top frets, adjust truss rod until buzzing at low frets. It’s that easy. And of course cut nut slots right. Use measurements as ballpark figures.

 

[Jivve]

View attachment 4760999

Haha, you obviously don’t have enough knowledge to discuss the subject of low action. The original question was ”how do I get lowest possible action”. I have the answer. You do not. Neither does the video you posted. Rock on

 

[scottfeldstein]

Haha, you obviously don’t have enough knowledge to discuss the subject of low action. The original question was ”how do I get lowest possible action”. I have the answer. You do not. Neither does the video you posted. Rock on

My Ibanez BTBN745 has 8 thou neck relief and the low B string is just a bit above 4/64s. Not a buzz anywhere on the board.

Look, I don't doubt that your method works for you. But you must be aware that it does go against common wisdom on how to do a setup. It does not change anything that your goal is to have very low action. The procedure is the same.

 

[Jivve]

My Ibanez BTBN745 has 8 thou neck relief and the low B string is just a bit above 4/64s. Not a buzz anywhere on the board.

Look, I don't doubt that your method works for you. But you must be aware that it does go against common wisdom on how to do a setup. It does not change anything that your goal is to have very low action. The procedure is the same.

Common wisdom how to screw two screws. Sure, I get that people think they know how to do it right or whatever. Fact remains, saddles adjust string height, the truss rod doesn’t affect frets above 12ish. If you adjust saddles just enough to not buzz over 12th fret the truss rod will take care of the rest. It really isn’t rocket science. Look at saddles and high frets as one unit. This will in a perfect world be the bottleneck. With even frets then adjusting the relief (as low as possible) so the first few frets don’t buzz will be the optimal setting for lowest action.

Can you or someone else explain the logic of adjusting the truss rod first or is it just something someone once said is the ”correct” way to do it?

I find this very interesting. I’m always on the hunt for lower action